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Why don't dealerships do Scavenger oil changes

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  #71  
Old 03-24-2012, 05:16 PM
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Once you drain the engine oil, fill it up with kerosene and run the engine for for a few min or so to circulate the kerosene so it can desolve those pesky and damaging dirty oil deposits in the engine. This should leave the inside of the engine nice and clean and nothing to dirty the new oil. Next drain the kerosene and refill with bottled water, never use tap because it contains contaminants, to rinse out the kerosene. Finally anoint your now clean engine with Amsoil oil which has magical powers of lubrication. Do this while holding the bottle aloft and chanting "lubrication", "lubrication", "lubrication" while facing toward the sacred Amsoil office in Superior, WI.
 

Last edited by fat_tony; 03-24-2012 at 05:30 PM.
  #72  
Old 03-24-2012, 05:23 PM
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Hey guys, hope I'm not hijacking the thread, but I have a question on the oil removal.
No problem, we weren`t talking about anything important…

Anyway, the other day I had to remove the oil tank from the frame and found it was empty.
Yes, the oil has leaked past the check valve in the oil pump, a common occurrence when an engine is not run for a while, nothing to worry about.

It can happen on any dry sump lube system that has the oil tank mounted above the engine.

When you are ready to run the engine, put about a quart of oil in the tank, and make sure the breather hose (if you have an external hose) is pointed in the direction you want the oil to go, as it is going to blow out the breather until it gets the oil scavenged from the crankcase.

Once it gets done puking the oil out of the breather, you can then set the correct oil level in the tank, about 1/2 inch below the bottom of the filler neck.
 
  #73  
Old 03-24-2012, 06:40 PM
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I use the scanveger and like it.
My bike = 100% clean oil
Your bike = Your bike, do what you like.
 
  #74  
Old 03-24-2012, 07:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Dan89FLSTC
No problem, we weren`t talking about anything important…



Yes, the oil has leaked past the check valve in the oil pump, a common occurrence when an engine is not run for a while, nothing to worry about.

It can happen on any dry sump lube system that has the oil tank mounted above the engine.

When you are ready to run the engine, put about a quart of oil in the tank, and make sure the breather hose (if you have an external hose) is pointed in the direction you want the oil to go, as it is going to blow out the breather until it gets the oil scavenged from the crankcase.

Once it gets done puking the oil out of the breather, you can then set the correct oil level in the tank, about 1/2 inch below the bottom of the filler neck.
Okay, thanks, I'm glad I haven't hurt anything. By breather hose, do you mean the third line that runs up to the tank? If so, can't I just leave it connected to the tank? Or do you mean the tubes that run from the heads to the carbs?
 
  #75  
Old 03-24-2012, 07:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Dixie Dreg
Wow, don't address any of the points I made, just tell me I need stress management.
I don't mean any disrespect...But I didn't see where you really made a point.
 
  #76  
Old 03-24-2012, 07:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Dan89FLSTC
No problem, we weren`t talking about anything important…



Yes, the oil has leaked past the check valve in the oil pump, a common occurrence when an engine is not run for a while, nothing to worry about.

It can happen on any dry sump lube system that has the oil tank mounted above the engine.

When you are ready to run the engine, put about a quart of oil in the tank, and make sure the breather hose (if you have an external hose) is pointed in the direction you want the oil to go, as it is going to blow out the breather until it gets the oil scavenged from the crankcase.

Once it gets done puking the oil out of the breather, you can then set the correct oil level in the tank, about 1/2 inch below the bottom of the filler neck.
WAAAAY better to drain the sumped oil out through the drain plug in the bottom of the case before you try to start it with all that oil sitting in the crankcase......... just sayin'...
 

Last edited by hoofnhog; 03-24-2012 at 07:39 PM.
  #77  
Old 03-24-2012, 07:50 PM
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Looks like only one hex head bolt on the bottom of the engine with some kind of redish-brown material on the threads. Is that the drain plug?
 
  #78  
Old 03-24-2012, 07:55 PM
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Originally Posted by evolyn
Looks like only one hex head bolt on the bottom of the engine with some kind of redish-brown material on the threads. Is that the drain plug?
refer to your service manual if you are unsure.......
 
  #79  
Old 03-24-2012, 07:56 PM
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Originally Posted by evolyn
Or do you mean the tubes that run from the heads to the carbs?
You don`t have a hose, just the tubes that run from heads to carbs.
 
  #80  
Old 03-25-2012, 05:57 AM
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Originally Posted by evolyn
Looks like only one hex head bolt on the bottom of the engine with some kind of redish-brown material on the threads. Is that the drain plug?

No, and don't ever touch that plug. It's not the drain plug....Some people have cracked their cases trying to reinstall it!
 


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