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Why don't dealerships do Scavenger oil changes

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  #91  
Old 03-25-2012, 04:42 PM
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Originally Posted by FBFletch
Now, for those who think that it's a good idea to remove the drain plug from the bottom of the case to drain the oil in the sump as opposed to doing a scavenging oil change, you obviously haven't followed any of the threads posted on this forum by folks who have cracked their crankcase while attempting to remove/install that plug.
i think you misread that. the only instance where that has been suggested is for the fella that has let his bike sit for a long time and the oil has leaked down past his drain back valve. definitely not for routine maintenance.
 
  #92  
Old 03-25-2012, 06:15 PM
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Originally Posted by skratch
i think you misread that. the only instance where that has been suggested is for the fella that has let his bike sit for a long time and the oil has leaked down past his drain back valve. definitely not for routine maintenance.

Exactly..... it is the correct way to clear a crankcase that has sumped only...NOT for routine oil changes...... thanks, skratch!
 
  #93  
Old 04-05-2012, 03:34 PM
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Default scavenger required for short runs below 60°F, HD manual

I'm bringing this thread back to life because of something I've stumbled on right now flicking through my owner's manual.
Here is the reason why the Scavenger should be used for an oil change, but only if this situation occurs:

From Dyna 2011 Owner's Manual:

Winter Lubrication:
In colder climates, the engine oil should be changed often. If motorcycle is used frequently for short trips, less than 15 mi 24 km, in ambient temperatures below 60° F 16° C , oil change intervals should be reduced to 1500 mi 2400 km.
Motorcycles used only for short runs must have a thorough tank flush-out before new oil is put in. The tank flush-out should be performed by an authorized dealer or qualified technician.

Ok, so for many of us the scavenger is useless. But if you happen to use the bikes for short runs on colder climates below 60° F, like commuting to work if not far from where you live, then maybe you should buy the scavenger, to perform the type of maintenance your HD owner's manual recommend.
 
  #94  
Old 04-05-2012, 03:55 PM
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Originally Posted by ghira75
I'm bringing this thread back to life because of something I've stumbled on right now flicking through my owner's manual.
Here is the reason why the Scavenger should be used for an oil change, but only if this situation occurs:

From Dyna 2011 Owner's Manual:

Winter Lubrication:
In colder climates, the engine oil should be changed often. If motorcycle is used frequently for short trips, less than 15 mi 24 km, in ambient temperatures below 60° F 16° C , oil change intervals should be reduced to 1500 mi 2400 km.
Motorcycles used only for short runs must have a thorough tank flush-out before new oil is put in. The tank flush-out should be performed by an authorized dealer or qualified technician.

Ok, so for many of us the scavenger is useless. But if you happen to use the bikes for short runs on colder climates below 60° F, like commuting to work if
not far from where you live, then maybe you should buy the scavenger, to perform the type of maintenance your HD owner's manual recommend.
The reason Harley suggests changing the oil sooner is fuel dillution. Short trips don't get the oil hot enough to evaporate the fuel that gets by the rings during warm up. A real simple way to alleviate that issue is to ride the bike for an hour at a time once a week. That ride will evaporate the fuel in the oil,as well as any condensation that may accumulate.
 
  #95  
Old 04-05-2012, 04:10 PM
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I sure am impressed that all these people who don't use the Scavenger know more about it than the ones who do.
 
  #96  
Old 04-05-2012, 04:18 PM
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I am really confused as for the math being done here.... If I drain my oil... Hook up this doodad, put the hose into a fresh one quart of oil and let it run through the system.... Then that entire quart + some old oil is coming out into my pan.. If you are saying there is a quart of oil coming out that is discolored, you would be correct, kinda. That dirty used oil mixed with the new quart of oil which is why after you do this thing you are left with another quart of dirty oil... That does not mean there was an entire quart of oil left in the engine after draining your old oil... It just means you cycled an entire quart of oil through to pump out the very tiny bit of old oil.

I looked into the system and the idea seems good, but I just can't imagine an ounce or two of dirty oil to be causing such a huge breakdown of the new oil. Between the system costing $100 and then having to waste a good quart of oil... Just doesn't seem too cost effective.
 
  #97  
Old 04-05-2012, 05:14 PM
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Die Thread Die!
 
  #98  
Old 04-05-2012, 05:47 PM
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Originally Posted by soft 02
This thread is still going on....strange.
I'm loving it.
 
  #99  
Old 04-26-2012, 12:59 PM
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Lines drawn in the sand...Don't dare disagree with me.

I just bought into the Scavenger for a very simple reason. If I'm changing my oil, I want to change as much as possible. I hate half-a$$ jobs. Do it right - as Mike Holmes says.

If YOU choose or believe that it makes no difference to the longivity of the engine, you are right. (either way...It's your opinion)

Personally, as has been mentionned, I'll sleep better at night knowing I did the best I could to keep things running clean. I even have a fancy permanent filter (FLO). Yes! I'm ****.

If we could accurately quantify the benefit, that would be cool. However, I don't see the harm in it, so?

BTW, to the argument that you run the engine dry...Gimme a break! If you run it for a few seconds, it will use the coated lubrication. Now who's ****?
 
  #100  
Old 04-26-2012, 03:53 PM
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