As Iceman pointed out, it depends on whether the derby cover is still on. If it is, simply drill the head of the screw. Use a drill bit about half the diameter of the head of the screw. Once you get the derby cover off, there will be enough of the screw sticking out that you can twist is out easily with a pair of vice grips. I've had to do this more than when I was using cheap torx bits.

If the derby cover is off and the screw is snapped of flush with the primary housing it's a different story. Your only choice at that point may be to use an easy out. However, use extreme caution with the easy out. You're going to be using one that's extremely small and they snap very easily. Snap one off in the screw and you've got a world of trouble.

I've had good success (better than with easy outs) in the past with left-handed drill bits. They're basically cut in the opposite direction from a standard drill bit and you use your drill in the reverse (counter-clockwise) direction. As the bit turns in the counter-clockwise direction and bites into the metal of the screw, it will normall back them out will very little effort (assuming they aren't lock-tited in place which the derby cover screws shouldn't be). The only problem is that left-handed drill bits can be difficult to locate. I think I stumbled across my set (5 bits) at a flea market.

Hope this helps.

 

no, the head didn't spin off but the torx splines have run smooth so I can't get a fix

 

Many thanks for your swift replies guys...very helpful

 

I've had good success (better than with easy outs) in the past with left-handed drill bits. They're basically cut in the opposite direction from a standard drill bit and you use your drill in the reverse (counter-clockwise) direction. As the bit turns in the counter-clockwise direction and bites into the metal of the screw, it will normall back them out will very little effort (assuming they aren't lock-tited in place which the derby cover screws shouldn't be). The only problem is that left-handed drill bits can be difficult to locate. I think I stumbled across my set (5 bits) at a flea market.

Hope this helps.[/quote]

+1 They can really save your **** at times.

 

If your spline in the screw head is all that is stripped, try to find an allen wrench that will "fit" in the spline. The screw should not be too tight and as soon as you find a tool to engage it, it should back out easily.
Try to tap the allen wrench into the spline if needed to seat the tool well.
If as described earlier that this hole isnt a blind hole then the screw should not be bottomed out and should come right out as soon as you can get a grip in the splines.
Either way, toss that screw when it comes out and get another one. If I remember they are 1/4-20 thread.

 

Taking a center punch and giving it a couple of good whacks will maybe loosen it a bit. There is an old trick using a drop of oil and the torx bit and some cleanser like Comet or Bon-Ami. Put a drop, 1 only, on your torx bit and then dip it in the cleanser and try that. If no joy, you can as others have suggested, drill the head off and remove the cover. There will be enough of the fastener shank left to remove with vice grips. Ez outs are great IF you drill the bolt perfectly straight. If you drill it crooked, you will cause more problems for yourself.
I worked for years in an industry where there were always bolts and screws you couldn't get out. There is a creeping/penetrating oil called Kano Aero Kroil. It comes in a spray can and is the best oil I have ever used on stuck fasteners. If that didn't work, I would use an air hammer with an tool called a screw knocker with the correct bit. Sometimes that would reform the head of the fastener while you worked.


http://www.aircraft-tool.com/shop/de...DUCT_ID=AT540A

BTW....the correct size Torx bit for those fasteners is a No. 27

 

When the guys on 'American Restoration' need to extract a bolt they use a torch to heat it up. Pops right out. You could try that!

 

You think they do that on chrome ?

 

That was an easy fix, now replace all hardware with stainless not chrome and you will never deal with these problems again unless you do not have a feel for torque and overtighten.good Luck and have fun.

 

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog

These are remarkable little things! I use one or two sizes at my work. Mostly for panel screws and such, 10-32 panhead/button head. A wire ga. #10 drill to remove the damaged slot, and a #30 about 1/8th to 3/16th deep into it, place splined end of it into the hole and lightly tap with a hammer to seat it. put a socket on it, and wrench it out. If it starts to slip...drill a little deeper/tap a little harderWorks every time.

The plus on these is; they're not likely to break. And you don't have to buy the whole set. I'm thinkin' Sears carries them too, for much less.

Not much "Right Now" help, but, they're real handy to keep around.

Hope this helps

Best wishes....Tim(HT)