I was also considering a lens/reflector change but hadn't found any info on a good replacement.


Try http://www.rallylights.com/SearchRes...CategoryID=366
Have read a lot of good things about these lens in the touring section. Still have not tried them myself,planing on it this spring.

 

That's a really nice look. My turn signals were relocated to the forks by the original owner. But, I've considered installing driving lights on my highway bars.

Do you run them with the headlights or do you have a separate switch for them (i.e. do you run them all the time)?

 

Has anyone ever upgraded their wire harness to get the most out of their halogen bulbs. Running thicker gauge wire straight from the battery so you avoid any drop in voltage and get better ouput.

 

I can run either way they are set up on a secondary switch , Never know what asinine law they will pass next out here so I keep the bases covered by being flexible . All my lights are hard wired in on 12ga.wiring through 40amp relays . Upgraded to the 32 amp charging system years ago .

I have 15watt running bulbs installed in the dual cans with the H-4's to meet the lights on all the time law , also micro switched & relayed . I'm old school and to tell you the truth I don't believe for a second the lights on makes a damn bit of difference in whether they see you or not so I run any lights when needed not when a bean counter tells me I have to .

BMW bikes use the same lights on the highway bars , see them on ebay used once in a while pretty reasonable . You can never have enough light out in front of you on a bike and the further the better .

 

I use the Philips and really like them. I've also used the Osrams and the PIAA's before.
Here's a good source for bulbs.
http://store.candlepower.com/90h4hbxtpo.html

 

Actually, I was looking at the wiring diagram in the Service Manual tonight in preparation for doing just that. Most folks don't realize just how much difference a small change in voltage can make to output of halogen bulbs. I've done this mod on a number of different cars and it makes a huge difference.

Before I tackle that however, I'm going to take some voltage readings at the battery terminals and at the headlight plug to see just how much of a voltage difference there is. If the voltage difference isn't significant, it may not be worth the effort.

 

+1.

I do a lot of driving at night already and I couldn't agree more. Plus I'm thinking of tackling a couple of endurance rides. So, I'll be doing even more night driving in the future. Makes a good set of lights imperative.

 

Here's a good source for H4 wiring kits.

http://easternbeaver.com/Main/Produc...s/h4_kits.html

 

Rule of thumb for high output lighting is 14ga is as small as you want to use if possible and most harnesses today have 18 in tha handlebars and maybe 16 in the main harnesses . I feed all my breakers with a 10ga main with jumpers then 12ga to the relay mains and 14 out to the lights , any control wiring can be 18 - 20ga no problem . Voltage & ohm drops are decreased dramatically depending on the quality of the relay used some of the cheapy china imports are real junk so heads up .

 

I've used these kits in 3 different bikes. The big benefit is when using the 70/65 bulbs, you don't have that extra amperage cycling through your hi=lo beam switch, and the bulb sockets are upgraded so the extra heat won't hurt them.

Those and Daniel Stern's advice are great!

P-I-A-A- is H=Y=P=E