soldering gun/iron/station?
#11
NEVER use Acid Flux on electrical wires, it will corrode them. You'll want to use Rosin Flux on all electrical wiring and circuits. Most electrical solder has Rosin in its core, but it never hurts to add a little more before soldering to help clean up and bond the wires. Acid flux is used to prepare the surfaces on things like plumbing pipes and the like, but definitely not on anything electrical. Also, when using heat shrink, try to obtain the kind with an adhesive coating on the inside as it protects the wiring from moisture.
#12
Soldering is fine for a bike. I work in aviation and we still use solder connections all over the aircraft. We also use environmental crimp splices. I would recommend using an environmental type splice, but soldering is also fine so long as it is a good solder joint. Use plenty of flux and make sure you don't have a cold solder joint. As for the environmental splices, the type we use at work is M81824/1-1, -2, or -3 depending on wire size. These really work great and do not really bulk up the wire run. Crimped properly these splices last forever.
#13
Good point on the "cold solder joints".One of the biggest causes of amp failures I see.Even from supposedly "trained" factory workers.It comes from the elements not being heated sufficiently for the solder to "flow" and adhere properly to both elements in a given joint,or from one or more of them moving,even slightly,before the solder sets.It is easilly id'd by a dull color to the solder after setting,or an uneven look to the clump of solder.Flux core solder is good enough,in over 30 years doing amp and guitar work,I've never even owned any sort of seperate flux.
Last edited by stokes; 01-12-2012 at 10:30 AM.
#14
Just a heads up, most of the solder being sold now is lead free. Tin/lead is being phased out for "enviromental" reasons. The lead free is crap. It doesn't flow near as well and seems to have a higher melting point. The finished joints don't "shine" as well as 60/40 used too. If you can find it you want 60/40 rosin core.
#15
I'm getting ready to purchase a set of apes for my 2012 SG. I want to get a decent soldering gun/iron/station to extend my wires myself to run inside of the handle bars. I know there are some really nice ones for a lot of money. I don't want to spend a fortune on something I will only use once and awhile.
I was looking at the Weller Gun at Home Depot. It is 100/140 watts for $50.00. Is that too hot?...
Sears has a Cooper variable 5-40 watt station for about $50.00
I have a cheap soldering iron from Wally World, but it does not want to heat the wire enough. I have tried it on other wiring jobs and it is not sufficient.
Any help in this would be greatly appreciated.
I was looking at the Weller Gun at Home Depot. It is 100/140 watts for $50.00. Is that too hot?...
Sears has a Cooper variable 5-40 watt station for about $50.00
I have a cheap soldering iron from Wally World, but it does not want to heat the wire enough. I have tried it on other wiring jobs and it is not sufficient.
Any help in this would be greatly appreciated.
never had a solder joint break , or the wires close to it ....I extended my own wires in my apes just as you are planning .
#16
One of the biggest mistakes people make when soldering is using a soldering iron or gun with a wattage that's too high. More often than not when you do, you'll end up overheating the wire and screwing up the insulation on the wire.
Most times the reason that folks end up going to higher wattage soldering irons or guns is because they believe they aren't getting enough heat. However, it's often just a simple case of not getting/keeping the tip of the soldering iron clean prior to soldering. You can get by with a 15 Watt soldering iron in most cases if you keep the tip clean. Go to Radio Shack and get some Tip Tinning/Cleaning Paste (about $8). You should tin/clean the tip of the soldering iron prior to each use and at the end of the day when you put the soldering iron up. And keep a wire brush around for cleaning the tip as well.
For soldering wires, you should never need more than a 25-30 Watt soldering iron. The only reason you would need a higher wattage would be if you were tinning the ends of a large diameter cable.
And, the only reason to spend a lot of money on a soldering station is if you need variable temperature control for a wide variety of soldering applications (i.e. for soldering anything from delicate circuit boards to silver soldering jewelry).
Hope this helps.
Most times the reason that folks end up going to higher wattage soldering irons or guns is because they believe they aren't getting enough heat. However, it's often just a simple case of not getting/keeping the tip of the soldering iron clean prior to soldering. You can get by with a 15 Watt soldering iron in most cases if you keep the tip clean. Go to Radio Shack and get some Tip Tinning/Cleaning Paste (about $8). You should tin/clean the tip of the soldering iron prior to each use and at the end of the day when you put the soldering iron up. And keep a wire brush around for cleaning the tip as well.
For soldering wires, you should never need more than a 25-30 Watt soldering iron. The only reason you would need a higher wattage would be if you were tinning the ends of a large diameter cable.
And, the only reason to spend a lot of money on a soldering station is if you need variable temperature control for a wide variety of soldering applications (i.e. for soldering anything from delicate circuit boards to silver soldering jewelry).
Hope this helps.
#17
Never use a wire brush or any kind of abrasive on a weller or most modern tips.They have a coating over a copper core.A brush will expose the copper and render it useless.All you need do is as I described in an earlier post.
#19
I use a butane powered soldering iron for small projects. It gets plenty hot enough.If I have a lot of soldering to do, I use a Pace system from work. Like anything else, it takes practice, heat the material first then feed the solder in, let the heat from the wire melt the solder, not from the solder iron. Also, make a sound mechanical connection with the two wires and you won't have connection failures.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2062753
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2062753
#20
If you're not worried about fast recovery, meaning holds the heat quickly, something from radio shack may work. Personally, something with a transformer and dial temp indicator wins. Can be had from MCM electronics for about 70 bucks. The brand is tenma. Used these units for over ten years in consumer electronics. The price will be forgotten long after the quality remains. mho. On larger wire an actual heat gun (shaped like a gun) does a quicker job. 75 watts on those is plenty.