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  #11  
Old 12-21-2011, 10:48 AM
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Could also mean the rear blinker on that side is out.
 
  #12  
Old 12-21-2011, 12:07 PM
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Al my lights are working. Strange is that it only does when the bike is running. If the bike is off the turn signal blinks normally. Going to go get a Harley bulb and see if that fixes it.

The bulb I put in was from auto zone but it met the specs for a 27 watt bulb that is called out to use in the manual. Wondering though if it meets the 7 watt that it shows in the manual. The manual shows 27/7..... I have no idea what that means but suspect it has to do with light on and a different wattage for wen the signal is engaged
 
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Old 12-21-2011, 01:02 PM
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Originally Posted by oldairboater
Where did you get that information? Trouble code storage on my bike is displayed in the time period it takes for the engine sign to go out when you power up the ecm. The longer the light is on the more codes stored I believe.
There are many threads on here about this. When the turn signals flash normally for about 4 flashes and then it goes very fast it means there is a code stored in the ECM. I have found this to be true several times.
 
  #14  
Old 12-21-2011, 02:03 PM
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Front bulbs are dual filaments. One filament for the running lights, and one for the signal.


Sounds to me like you put in a single filament bulb. Just cause it fits the socket, doesn't mean it's the correct bulb.

And a fast blink means decreased resistance, not increased as mentioned before. Just an FYI!
 
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Old 12-21-2011, 06:16 PM
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Originally Posted by fish eye
And a fast blink means decreased resistance, not increased as mentioned before. Just an FYI!
Increased resistance (less draw) definitely causes fast blinking. LED lights have much higher resistance than filament bulbs. Decreased resistance would mean increased wattage draw.

Higher wattage draw might cause fast blinking as well, but lower wattage draw (higher resistance) definitely causes fast blinking on pre-2012 models.
 
  #16  
Old 12-21-2011, 07:07 PM
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Update. Switched the front signal to a HD bulb, no difference. Matter of fact couldn't see any difference in the auto zone bulb compared to the HD bulb other the than the cost.

Also no codes showing when I checked.

Decided to go see the dealer. Mechanic was perplexed. Spent and hour on the bike, checked the module etc could not find a problem with it or any of the wiring. He came out to ask me questions on 3 different occasions and still had no idea. He said he was going to switch out the rear bulb just to try it. I had checked the rear bulb and didn't see. Any issues with it and the mechanic also said he didn't see any problems with the bulb on the rear.

So far looks like the rear one may have been the culprit, seems to be working fine now.

I need to give props to the local dealer thy spent over and hour looking at the bike for no charge. Bike is an 06 so no it was not covered under warranty. Just thought for a change I would let people know that they are some good dealers out there and that it not always bad like u tend to hear on the forums.

Will keep u guys updated if things change and thanks for all the help!
 
  #17  
Old 12-22-2011, 01:45 AM
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Originally Posted by fish eye
And a fast blink means decreased resistance, not increased as mentioned before. Just an FYI!
Ughh, no. Increased resistance will cause a fast blink, as per my first post. A blown filament, equals infinity resistance, and a corroded ground, equals increased resistance relative to the extent of the corrosion, both will cause a fast blink. Been doin' this for over 30 years.

To the OP, glad you got it figured out, and the cause makes perfect sense. The rear bulb was on it's way out (increased resistance) even though it wasn't visible apparently. If you still have the bad bulb, check it with an ohm meter and post up your results. Filament contact to bulb ground for both filaments.

And just as a tip, replace the other side front and rear bulbs, they're ready to go too!
 
  #18  
Old 12-22-2011, 04:01 AM
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Originally Posted by scasey
Don7t know anything about how this works but something is messed up.
I don't know about that, but your wireless keyboard needs new batteries. Thats why the 7 is popping up.
 
  #19  
Old 12-22-2011, 04:42 AM
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just fyi... the designation on the bulb or any bulb 27/7 refers to the wattage output of the two different filaments in the bulb. the brighter turn/brake side of the bulb would be the 27 watt, the dimmer running/park side of the bulb would be the 7 watt
 
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