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motorcycle jumper cables?

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  #11  
Old 12-15-2011, 02:59 PM
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Offer to ride while he pushes and I bet he will remember to turn off the ignition after killing the engine with the run/off switch. I also wouldn't let the clutch out till he starts to lose speed.
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Originally Posted by rh8234
I have a set of jumper cables stowed on each of the bikes. I have never needed them for myself, but one of the guys I ride with occasionally, likes to use the kill switch rather than the key to shut his bike off. then he starts messing with $hit (stow helmet, find wallet, get glasses...) and forgets to remove the key. Several time he has gone into an eatery - spent an hour or so - only to come out and realize he has left the key in the "ON" position. Every time he does this, his battery is too low to start the bike because the headlight stays on when the key is on. I think the guy is a little slow on the uptake, because he insists that since he never turned the lights on, there should be no drain on the battery. I've explained numerous times that if the key is on, the lights are on, but he doesn't get it. I've even showed him that there is no light switch on his bike and that the only way to shut off the lights is to turn the damn key off. Anyway - when it comes to jumper cables, "BIGGER IS BETTER". Heaviest wire that you can conveniently cary will function the best.


LOL - good Idea. I should - a - thought about that option, but the guy has an injected bike, so I ain't too sure if the whole push-start thing would work. Maybe the bike won't start, but I bet he'd learn a lesson after pushing that sucker for about an hour with my fat a$$ sitting on it. When he collapses in the street, I could pull out the jumper cables. Thanks for the idea oldbairoater!
 
  #12  
Old 12-15-2011, 03:41 PM
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I have jumped several of my bikes with cars with the engine running and never had a problem. Either I'm very lucky, or it's not a problem. I do prefer to use a portable jump pack though.
 
  #13  
Old 12-15-2011, 10:31 PM
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I have a set that plugs into the end of my tender connection. No need to unbolt the seat and fortunately have never needed to use them.
 
  #14  
Old 12-16-2011, 11:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Haywired
I have a set that plugs into the end of my tender connection. No need to unbolt the seat and fortunately have never needed to use them.
Yep. Made a set: local electronics shop had the correct ends. Stow easily.
 
  #15  
Old 12-16-2011, 01:10 PM
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An injected mc wont start pushing it needs juice for the pump.10ga is fine and its always best to jump with the other vehicle shut off.I've jumped my older shovels and pans off of big rigs,it really doesnt matter as long as you're quick.You only need about 6ft and,the easiest way Ive found for 4 wheelers or big rigs is hook them up first,hook the ground to yours and touch the hot just enough to get it goin.
 
  #16  
Old 12-16-2011, 03:28 PM
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I fried my 68 pan/shovel with car jumpers one night. Well, the guy in the car started his car while cables were attached to by battery. Not good. Every time after that if I needed a jump I used regular jumper cables and made sure the car was not turned on. I always was able to get enough current to get a few turns and get it to kick over.
 
  #17  
Old 12-18-2011, 05:43 AM
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Fried my ECM on efi softail while jumping with car running! Fine if car is off.
 
  #18  
Old 12-18-2011, 08:56 AM
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Only thing I can add to this post is that I would make them about 8-10 feet long. I have a set I bought somewhere that have a nice carrying case and they are 10 foot. They roll up nice and compact. As for the jumping for a car part, I just hook em up and leave it sit for about 10 minutes with the car/truck idling and the bike ignition off to give the battery a charge. Then turn car off and start the bike. That prevents the car alternator from frying the electronics on the bike.
 
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