Mobile 1 V-twin 20w50 vs Standard Mobile 1 20w50
#41
10-16-2011, 09:21 AM
Club Member
They don't show the 5 quart jug online and neither does Autozone. Autozone is having a sale right now though for either a 5 quart jug of Mobil 1 synth oil or 5 individual quarts and a Mobil One oil filter for $32.99. That's a pretty good deal, I can get 5 quarts of the 15W50 for the bike and then I can get the filter for my wife's car when I change the oil on it. That's about $5 a quart then $7.99 for the filter.
Last edited by PigInaBlanket; 10-16-2011 at 09:23 AM.
#42
10-16-2011, 09:22 AM
Any good oil is the right stuff to use, I use redline,,if you are worried about the cost,,do what I do,, I stop in at my local redline dealer once a month and buy a quart,,,don't hurt so bad when it's time to change your oil,,,
#43
10-16-2011, 03:22 PM
Watch NAPA, Advanced Auto, Auto Zone... They all run it for $4.00 a qt regularly. When they do I load up.
#44
10-16-2011, 03:55 PM
Tourer
I've been using regular Wally world brand Dino oil for all my Harleys, changing oils at 5K miles for engine, 10K miles for primary and 20K miles for transmission. I did splurge the past year and went with Redline in the transmission to see if there's a difference, nope none, except the wallet is a bit lighter. 
No problems until I bought a brand new FLTRUSE 2 weeks ago, that had the synthetic factory oil. At 950 miles the engine tossed a valve. So much for that synthetic oil hoax.
Can anyone tell me which breed of dinosaur Harley or Mobil uses for their motor oils. LOL
No problems until I bought a brand new FLTRUSE 2 weeks ago, that had the synthetic factory oil. At 950 miles the engine tossed a valve. So much for that synthetic oil hoax.
Can anyone tell me which breed of dinosaur Harley or Mobil uses for their motor oils. LOL
#45
10-16-2011, 04:07 PM
i would like to see the reasoning behind the use of synthetic, and the engine tossing a valve with 950 miles on it. I doubt there is any. more than likely, it was not asembled correctly, a keeper was not fully locked in place, or the valve itself was bad, broke the stem off the head or something.
When inspected we did find that the exhaust valve didn't seat completely. So when the intake valve opened up it didn't have the clearance to do so without hitting the exhaust valve. The intake valve sheared off, taking out the electrode in the spark plug. Then rattled around the cylinder chewing up the piston's face.
#46
10-16-2011, 07:12 PM
Seasoned HDF Member
just have to change it to every payday
#47
10-16-2011, 07:39 PM
Ultimate HDF Member
...When inspected we did find that the exhaust valve didn't seat completely. So when the intake valve opened up it didn't have the clearance to do so without hitting the exhaust valve. The intake valve sheared off, taking out the electrode in the spark plug. Then rattled around the cylinder chewing up the piston's face.
#48
10-16-2011, 07:44 PM
Moderator: Pease don't move this post it is already in the oil & lubrication section, but I felt this to be a good source of general info and interest, thanks..
I have a 2004 roadking and just changed oil with Mobile 1 V-Twin 20w50, pretty costly...For my Porsche I use Mobile 1 20w50 synthetic. for nearly half the cost of the V-twin version. I understand that the composition of the V-twin takes into account less or different lubrication specs for the wet clutch type of lubrication. My bikes primary is completely separate from the crankcase so that issue should not apply to my bike.
That being said is there any other reason why I can't use the standard Mobile 1 20w50?, which by the way also has very high tempurature breakdown resistance, if anyone was going to mention high rear cylinder temps as a reason. I tried to research with little success in evaluating the benefits of v-twin version vs standard Mobile 1 20w50. Thanks, John
I have a 2004 roadking and just changed oil with Mobile 1 V-Twin 20w50, pretty costly...For my Porsche I use Mobile 1 20w50 synthetic. for nearly half the cost of the V-twin version. I understand that the composition of the V-twin takes into account less or different lubrication specs for the wet clutch type of lubrication. My bikes primary is completely separate from the crankcase so that issue should not apply to my bike.
That being said is there any other reason why I can't use the standard Mobile 1 20w50?, which by the way also has very high tempurature breakdown resistance, if anyone was going to mention high rear cylinder temps as a reason. I tried to research with little success in evaluating the benefits of v-twin version vs standard Mobile 1 20w50. Thanks, John
#50
10-16-2011, 10:20 PM
I believe motorcycle-specific oils have a higher content of corrosion inhibitors and they're formulated for air cooled engines. The corrosion inhibitors can be important if the bike is parked or stored in an area that has condensation. Mobile does not recommend hypoid gear oil for Harley transmissions.
Last edited by RK4ME; 10-16-2011 at 10:23 PM.