I have a 07 Ultra Classic. I bought a new enclosed trailer and a BIKE PRO wheel chock. First I painted the floor and then I used a hand grass seeder to spread the sand like additive to make the floor NON SKID. Worked perfect. Next week I am going to the Ride Like A Pro Class in Hudson Fla. Because the weather is uncertain I am trailering the bike to some point in Georgia then riding the rest of the way.

Anyway today I made a test run and rode the bike into the trailer and onto the chock. I can't believe how easy and great it worked. The bike stood up straight and I climbed off with no problem. I didn't even have to put the Jiffy stand down. Even though the Bike Pro information says you don't have to tie the bike down, I will feel safer with it strapped in and I had Etrac placed on both sides on the inner walls of the trailer for this purpose.

OK now for the question where do I tie the soft hog ties to the dresser? I have heard that the bike needs to "float on it's own suspension. So if anyone knows or has an opinion I am open to suggestions.

"I know some of you will say drive to Florida from Indiana but I am trailering part way"


Nellybelle

 

I use the soft ties on the forks and compress them about 2/3 of the way on my sporty. Rides real good...

 

I for one would not trust the ETrac you had installed. When trailering my Ultra, I use the chock and soft ties. I wrap the soft ties around the lower part of the handlebars and draw down on the front forks. I also run a strap through the rear wheel to keep the scooter from drifting sidways. You could use the ETrac for that. I'm suprised your trailer didn't come with at least one pair of tiedown points on the forward floor.

Outlaw

 

Most of the "experts" I have spoken with say don't tie a newer dresser by the handle bars. The only time mine has been on a trailer I placed the soft tie around the frame just above the crash bars. This is also supposed to be the HD recommended way. It secured my bike well and cleared all of the fairing and lowers. I also run a soft tie and strap from the rear floor board bracket on each side to keep the bike from shifting.

 

Sounds like my trailer only I'm hauling quads .

My E-Trac is bolted into the cross members of the frame whenever possible with hardend self tapping screws . The other screws have fender washers on the underside of the plywood .

I would suggest your wheel chock be bolted to the frame also . At least 2 bolts should engage a crossmember ,
the other bolts I would get a backing plate made for the back side from sheet metal . A fab shop could blank you out a piece for next to nothing . Then you could tranfer the holes yourself .

You don't need your mounts ripping loose in an accident . I have seen a enclosed bike trailer on its side along the freeway , back doors open , not pretty .

Don't use those cheap straps you might find at home depot either . Known of quads ripping thru light straps in an accident and flying down the road .

 

Nellybelle, I like the sand idea on the floor. What size trailer did you get and where did you get it? I am up around Indy and am looking for a trailer that I can load a Road King and a Heritage Classic into.

 

What he said works for me.I bought my Ultra out of state and trailered it home 600 miles with chock, soft ties around frame above crash bars, didn'y budge.

 

Indy Rider,

I went to Mayes Trailer Sales in Whiteland on US 31.

I bought a Cargo mate SA612. Single axel 6' by 12'.

Will handle 2000 Lb I think.

It also has extruded aluminum rock guards on the front and handles easy.

I have to borrower my son's pickup for going outside the barn lot but I put a hitch on the front of my John Deere Tractor and I can whip it around the farm and in and out of the barn where I keep it. I plan to keep the motorcycle in it all winter. I will use a batter tender inside the trailer I think.

They Say you can get two bikes in there. Maybe so if they are Schwinn's.

The stuff I spread in the paint after it was freshly painted was not really sand but some kind of abrasive from the paint store. A good paint store will have it.

Also after reading the other post I may add a large backing plate and insure the Etrac is mounted into some points of the frame.

Rick at Mayes was a little cocky at first by my lack of knowledge but when I gave him some smart A$$ remarks back he calmed down a little. Professional courtesy from one smart A$$ to another. I went back a couple of time and bought more Etrac clips and a young guy waited on me and was very helpful. I can't think of his name though.

I looked at several trailers and bought one the was maybe a little more than I needed as far a construction goes. But I thought what the hell. It is finished on the inside has lights and I am going to put some type of RV electrical box in it so I can have AC lights and a heater if I need it.

Good luck

Nellybelle

 

Well, I have trailered an EGC and a Sportster all over the East Coast using Bike Pro chocks in a 30 Ft Toy Hauler. With over 4000 trouble free trailered miles, I may not be the expert, but I've got experience.

The Bike Pro chocks do an excellent job of keeping the bike upright. First thing you want is the bike to stay on the chock. I have not figured out a good way yet to strap the tire to the chock, which would be ideal, however, I use two front straps angled out and slightly forward from the outer, lower part of the ENGINE GUARD. This secures the bike forward into the chock and limits lateral movement. I crank down just until I see the fork start to compress...maybe a half inch at most. The rear gets a strap from the passenger floorboard mount straight out at about 40 degrees. Again just enough to start spring compression. This prevents any lateral movement and allows the bike to ride on its own suspension to the limits of the straps if needed. Remember that although the trailer ride is bumpy, the trailer suspension absorbs most of the big jolts, the ride is relatively gentle for the bike. Make sure the bike is in gear when you finish the setup.

I have had zero problems with this setup. Even on roads under heavy construction and some in NC where the "harmonic" had the truck and trailer bucking like a bronco regardless of speed. After the first hundred miles or bumpy roads, I would check the straps. They do occasionally require tightening, as they are made of nylon and nylon stretches.

Having previously used a "Pringle" chock on an open trailer, I can attest to the value of the Bike Pro. Would never trailer without it. Don't concern yourself about what others say about trailering. I have determined that I ride FAR more than the loudest "trailers are for wusses" types.....I'm a big wus...I got a bathroom, fridge, A/C, heat, bed, TV.....and a garage.

 

Trailered mine to the shop by straps thru lower part of handle bars and lower part of rear crash bars (not bag rails).It rode great to the shop 20mi. away.