Wasn't sure where to put this question....

I recently purchased the 2010 Canyon Star 3920 (Toy Hauler) and that ramp is STEEP !! It's gotten to the point that I'm terrified to ride the bike in and even more terrified to back it out.

Although the ramp has this non-skid surface the bike does skid and there's a point where you no longer can reach the ramp with your feet so you have to let it go backwards and hope you can keep your balance.

My Harley is about 800+ pounds and I'm not very big.

Anybody got any suggestions for a solution ???

 

Check to see that you have the ball(tongue) at the right height, if it's too low your back end will be higher than it should be and make the ramp steeper than it could be. Trailer floor should be level when trailer is hooked up to tow vehicle and both are loaded as they will be used.

 

I have a similar problem with my bike trailer. What I do is raise the front of the trailer with the trailer wheel jack. If you have a fifth wheel just use the front jacks to raise it in front. This makes the angle of the ramp less steep. You can do this even with the trailer hitched. Just remember to lower it back down before you try to drive away. (please don't ask how I know that.).

 

Get some 2 X 12 and cut them at 12". Stack them in a bilk crate for storage in trailer. Stck up ahead of the rear tire like a pyramid 2 then 4 then 6. Roll the rear tires up and stop before going off. This will raise the rear of the truck and front of the trailer. This is very stable and trailer is still attached to the truck and will not roll or move. After bbike is out you can use them to level the trailer and jack bases. Fits perfect in milk crates.

And if your worried about it slipping. Lay a 3 foot piece as a base and pre drill through all boards and drop a bolt into the holes and into the bottom base (3 foot piece)

Class A, Ok no problem, just drive the front wheels up and make sure you dont go over the edge, have a spotter. This is what I have used for ramps when I change oil or need to get under my F250 Crew with diesel. I dont want no sheet metal ramps collapsing while Im under that this. It cannot fail because its solid wood. A friend showed this to be and thought thats the strongest ramps I will ever see.

 

Thanks for the input. Think there has been a misunderstanding though. I don't have the 'normal' kind of toy hauler. It's a Class A motorized toy hauler. Therefore the option to raise the tongue is not there.

 

Interesting, reading their web site info, they don't mention motorcycles, the site says: "Need a toyhauler that accommodates snowmobiles or ATVs?"
Maybe that's why it is so high.
I think I would have a talk with either the salesman, or a fabricator to make a hinged add-on for the ramp.

 

Use Melancon's suggestion, but put them under your front wheels instead of your back wheels.

That will effectively lower the height of your ramp in the back.

As he also stated, you can then use the boards to level the motorhome after the bike is out.

{edit}One other thing you may consider if you go this route--get some non-skid paint (or make your own with a good rubberized paint and some sand) and paint the tops of the boards.

 

I would go to someone that makes trailers and have them put a flap on the ramp. It would have to be on the outside, so they would have to make it look good. The flap would have to hinge out when lowering your door so that it would add the flap to the ramp making it longer.

 

Buy a Big Boy II from discount ramps. 12 feet long 38" wide. Foldable. Use it on top of builtin ramp for 2 step angle.

 

Use blocks to raise the ramp up, there by decreasing the angle of it. Then use a wide motorcycle ramp to bridge the gap you now have from the ramp to ground.