I have what I hope will not be considered a stupid question.

A little history:
- I have a 2011 FLHP with 2500 miles
- It recently developed a leak at the oil drain plug
- When I removed the plug, I noticed the o-ring was cut rather badly and there was a ring of what looked like pipe dope next to the o-ring
- I went to the dealer and he showed me a new plug, which has what looks like pipe thread tape on the plug in addition to the o-ring
- The parts guy told me this tape was only used at the factory and that the o-ring is all that is needed

Now my question:

I am still experiencing an oil leak at the drain plug even after replacing the o-ring. I am thinking that it should not be a problem if I wrapped the treads of my drain plug with thread tape.

The thread tape I'm thinking of is the white stuff you use on threaded water line connections.

Have any of you used tread tape on your drain plugs?

Thanks

 

I always clean the plug with carb cleaner, use a new "O" ring no matter what, and use a little teflon tape, no problem with leaks

 

Yes, I have wrapped my plug threads with teflon tape to help seal them. Now I use teflon pipe dope and a new oring. Do not over torque these plugs. The primary oil drain plug is tapered and you can screw up by overtightening it.

 

My "0" Ring is 40,000 miles old, no leaks. (Some are better than others I suppose.)

If you need a little pipe dope tape, use it....just don't ever over-tighten!

 

I am pretty sure the manual specifically says, "don't use tape" on the threads.

 

I always clean the threads w/ a wire brush; then w/ acetone. Install a new o-ring and apply a tiny amount of Teflon-based thread sealant. Torque to the low end of the specs.

It's possible that someone over-torqued previously and either buggered the threads or cracked the case.

 

I make sure the o ring is in good shape, then i went to a car parts store and got a brass or copper washer that will just fit on and not hurt the o ring. done this to all 3 plugs, no pipe thread or dope, no leaks, over 30k.

 

Check to make sure the drain is tapped straight, on my 2007 Electra Glide Classic the dealer had to replace the oil pan because the drain was threaded at a angle from the factory so plug would not seal properly.

 

After the oil is out and the hole is carefully wiped out you should be able to see the inner bevel and if it's nicked or not. The shoulder on the plug should also be good and smooth. Ensure correct diameter o-ring is uses. There is a metric one very similar but .010 smaller diameter that will not work. The o-ring slips down is that last bevel and the plug shoulders on what we call a washer face. Never use the 0-ring over but if it's mine a quick glance tells me it's OK and I have reused numerous times myself. $2.00 is cheap insurance. I have a couple in my box and will post size if you need that. This system work well and enables the plug to be tightened on the shoulder and will not come loose. There is always the chance that a tape thread will and since the thread on this plug is straight it's sure is jack leg to use tape. If a professional mechanic did this I would find another. There is probably lot of confusion here because Harleys 'are not all alike here. Some do have tapered pipe tap plug. My primary does and maybe the outer cover has been replaced. My oil drain is same as transmission. Its an MS seal plug straight thread o-ring seal. If your plug looks like attachment 2 or three it uses tape but be careful to wind tight. Do not let tape get loose in oil system!

 

Have, but don't anymore.