That's the tire I went with earlier this year (along with a 150/80HB16 ME880 on the rear), and they handle much better than the stock Dunlops.

I've never had any handling issues with my 21" front wheel, and I even rode the Tail of the Dragon this summer - no problemo!

Cheers!
[sm=icon_rock.gif][sm=icon_rock.gif][sm=icon_rock.gif]

 

As I recently went from a 21" with an Avon Venom to 16s front and rear on my Night Train, I'd like to throw in a couple cents worth here. I rode my NT (first Harley) for about 5000 miles on the 21/16" combo, with no problems. I ride my bike more like a sport bike, with mostly twisty roads, etc. In those miles, the only time I felt the small contact patch was while leaned WAY over, at good speeds. At times, if there were "ripples" in the road, the tire would skip microscopically. Not enough to cause any concern, just a 'reminder'. The bike did turn in quickly, and was very willing to lean. Now with the 16 in front (16 x 3", Avon Venom MT90 {?}) the bike is slightly slower leaning in, but it feels completely 'planted' once in a turn. I also went to a 3" wide rear, with a 150 Venom (from a 5.5"/150 setup), so the rear turns/leans much better. Overall, I'm happy, but I also liked the 21. I switched mainly for looks. Ridewise, both setups had their good and bad points.

 

Has anyone replaced their 90/90/21 with a 120/70/21? It sounds like that might be a good compromise for those that like the 21, but want more contact patch. This assumes it fits a stock 21 HD wheel and will slide under a stock fender.

 

Big; I was going to go that way, but found that the 110/90 was not going to fit into the XL 1200 R's wheel well in that the four bolt nuts holding the fender on were way too close together to allow an inflated tire to pass. I thought about revising the bolt-up method for holding the fender on by reversing a cap screw head bolt with the nuts on the outside of the forks. That proved to be very unsightly and not acceptable just on ascetics. Heck, I even contemplated taking the fender off to mount the larger tire/wheel and reinstalling the fender after the wheel was in place. I don't know about the 120/70/21. I'm sure that it would have even more interference with those same bolts. .................... BC

 

Sounds like the simplest (but not cheapest) way to make it work on a Sporty would be to convert to mid-glide trees. I think it would work on a Wide Glide front end without too much fuss. I'm going to run one on my new Road Glide.

 

I put a 120/21 on my "06 Train. Instaled it on a 3.5" wheel. It feels a lot more stable in the turns and doesn't grab the ruts in the road as much now.
I've also got an '05 Heritage with a 130/18 on the front of it. I prefer the Train anytime!

 

Did you have to replace the fender or does it fit with the stock?



[IMG]local://upfiles/13603/43909559435E4651BC4E83A4DF091BC5.jpg[/IMG]

 

Big: Yes, I contemplated the change out of the whole front end for a Dyna WG set up for about long enough to add up the cost of all the parts needed. The total was too much for just cosmetics and questionable performance. My final solution is to buy a whole wheel/hub/spokes assembly for dual disc brakes in 19 in. X 2.15 in. I will mount a Metzler ME880 90/90 to match a ME 880 150 or 160 rear tire as soon as the wheel arrives.

It was mentioned that in an other's posted opinion that they didn't think that the H-Ds with 16 in. front wheels handle very well. I also thought that might be a true generality until I purchased my Road King Classic. It came with spoked wheels 16 in. diameter front and rear with the usual Dunlop 402s. From the direction of my comments on this forum you can tell that I am critical of bike handling in general and in particular about how my bikes ride and handle. I have been amazed and pleased at the very good cornering ability of the Road King Classic in 'box stock' form. This big bagger is quick, agile and feels solid and sure footed in most any cornering situation. Of course I admit to not pushing it as fast through those corners as the XL 1200 R. I am going to do a non-scientific experiment and pick out a route thru the Las Vegas valley surface streets and freeways; run the same course with the same traffic conditions on the Sportster and on the RK Classic. I want to know just how close to the Sportster that the RK Classic can stay in real-life performance.

In the end all any of us can do is to, "Pays our money and makes our choice."............... BC

 

I'm not running a front fender with the 120 tire. It wouldn't fit anyway.

 

I don't think people "won't accept" your empirical evidence, but you have to admit, you are just one anecdote amongst many. This post really started about the 16" wheel, and that is the one that most (not all) feel is the bad handler. It is a fact that Harley, as of this year, does not use the 16" front wheel on the Fat Boy, and this has to be a cosmetic issue. As a general rule, the smaller the wheel, the less stable the bike, that is why scooters feel so quirky. The difference in handling between 19s and 21s is probably negligible, but highly influenced by the type of tire, and the type of bike. You ride a Sportster, and having ridden Sportsters, I can give you my empirical evidence or anecdote: Sportsters in no way handle like big twins. The balance and the steering is radically different. Riding a Sportster is more like riding a standard motorcyle than a cruiser, and it would follow that they would be better suited to a more conventional (smaller) front wheel. My anecdote is equally valid as yours, I have owned big twins with 16, 19, and 21 inch front tires. The 19 and 21 are both great handlers, but I slightly prefer the 21.