Again. I have a 2011 RK, Used with 10,400 miles. I have been doing my 10K service in Piece meal since I am learning on what too do. It's all new too me.

When I first took possession of the bike, My friction zone occurred when I had the clutch 90% out. Where the clutch cable met the clutch lever, I could put 2 quarters thickness between the metal collar of the clutch cable to where it met the clutch lever assembly.


Now after I did the clutch adjustment. I can fit a dime or quarter between the metal collar of the clutch cable and where the clutch assembly met. My friction zone is now at 60% when I release the lever verses the 90% previous. I also turned the adjustment screw 1/2 back after it made contact with the clutch plate.

There is a big difference in feel and responsiveness of engaging the clutch. It feels more like my old VSTAR clutch responsiveness.

So, now my question.

Did the dealer have the clutch adjustment too tight or too loose when they sold me the bike, or is both occurrences normal expectation for clutch adjustments. Or do I have it too loose or too tight.. I reall y do not know what normal friction zone is normal for my bike.

Thanks

 

Maybe the dealer did it while hot? I had to do mine a couple of times before I got it right. I keep my friction zone around 50-60% out from the grip, that is where I personally like it. That adjustment is made at the clutch pack itself. I use about 3/4 turn out from where I meet resistance on the adjuster screw.

When I did it the first time, I only did the 1/2 turn and the friction zone was like yours, about 90% out from the grip. I don't like it that far out.

Also, I found out the hard way, don't use the 1/8th inch slack at the cable, I did that and was stuck in stop & go traffic and the whole cable popped out from the perch. I didn't have any wrenches at the time, so I had to have my bike towed to the dealer to fix it. Now I keep it at 1/16th inch (about the width of a dime) and have not had any problems since.

Good luck!

 

The distance where the friction zone engages from the point where the clutch lever comes off the handle bar (60%, 90%, etc.) is determined by the clutch cable adjustment.

For instance:
Tighter/longer cable = friction zone engaging with the clutch lever further from the handle bar (90%). The gap between the clutch cable ferrule and the clutch perch will be small.

Looser/shorter cable = friction zone engaging with the clutch lever closer to the handle bar (60%). The gap between the clutch cable ferrule and the clutch perch will be larger than the example above.


I'm not sure what difference backing the clutch pack adjuster out 1/2 turn vs. 3/4 turn has. Anyone care to comment?

Thanks

 

Yes, I'll comment. You are incorrect. The friction zone is determined by the description
big_al gave in the post above yours. The description you gave just takes up the slack in the cable. If it is too loose you may not be able to fully disengage the clutch. Too tight and the clutch may slip.

 

I'm sorry Steve, but I have to respectfully disagree with you. So does Jerry 'Motorman' Palladino, author and instructor for the 'Ride Like a Pro' advanced motorcycle instruction course.

From page 25 of his book: "The clutch on the bike should is adjusted so the friction zone starts about 1 inch from the grip. The more free play in the clutch lever, the closer the friction zone will be to the grip."

Regardless, should you choose not to believe me, or Jerry, I would encourage you to simply try the exercise to prove it to yourself. It only takes a minute and requires minimal skill.

Enjoy.

 

Ok, mine friction zone is way far away from the bar. I'm going to try to move it closer to the bar. I will check the shop manual and hopefully I won't end up moving it further away instead.

 

Jerry knows more about riding than adjusting a clutch imho. You can certainly screw up the friction zone by poor cable adjustment but that is not where it starts.

 

Again, if in doubt try it for yourself, then tell us what you find.
Good luck.

 

I should have added, this cable adjustment to find your preferred sweet spot should be done after you adjust the clutch pack.
Thanks

 

You are both kinda right...the "friction zone" has to be adjusted on the clutch but you can move where it engages from the handle bar with the cable. keep in mind hydraulic clutches have no cable and all the adjustment has to be done on the clutch. "Can't we all just get along"