do they make such a thing or does anyone have a formula to make one that say doubles the torque the wrench applies.

The shop manual says to torque the rear axle nut 92-98 ft lbs. My 3/8" torque wrench only goes to 75 ft lbs, i hate to buy he 1/2" drive/150 ft lb one for one nut.

Thanks

 

They indeed do make "such a thing". Go ahead and buy the wrench, it's cheaper than the Multiplier!!!!

 

thanks rah, the Sears wrenche on sale are like $70

i got in lbs up to 250 and ft lbs up to 75

 

we can never have too many toys...um I mean tools...

 

i wonder though on that big nut if 75 ft lps, then take a breaker bar and just give it a bit more would not to it?

butt he perfectionest in me prolly won't do that

 

as previously stated, you can never have too many tools

use this example as an excuse to yourself to go purchase one...

 

I got a 1/2" drive torque wrench at Wally World for $28. Try that out. You will probably need it in the future anyway.

 

torque?!? whats that? I seldom use one, only on the motor and engine cases or other "sensitive" parts. Other than that just plain 'ol wrenchin' I guess. Haven't had any problems.....yet!! But it is always best to do it the right way.

 

I would buy the proper tool for the job. However as long as it isn't related to safety i.e. engine/suspension then I would suggest torqueing it to your 75 ft. lbs. then drive it to a shop and ask if they will borrow their torque wrench or finish it off for you. That could not be the safest suggestion, I would just go out and buy one (not wally world brand). Remember you get what you pay for.

 

Yeah, agree. Buy the correct wrench. Craftsman, Husky, Kobalt...All good for home use. I prefer the 'click' type over the beam or digital models.

And for those reading this thread that are newbies: Store your (non-beam)torque wrenches with the spring relaxed. If you can get a plastic case for them all the better, or put them in a separate drawer in your tool box. If you drop it, chances are, you will have to get it re-calibrated. So....don't drop it. Remember also that oil/grease/anti-sieze/plating all act as lubricants and will change the actual torque specs (by as much as 20%) if you apply them when the 'spec' calls for a dry fastener. Makes it real easy to pull the threads off a stud or snap a bolt when you think you're applying the 'correct' torque.