Ever try a hotel room?

 

I have been in a sleeping bag in seveal different countries and all over the country, from the jungles to dead of winter in Alaska and for an all around sleeping bag, for the money nothing beats this one when you can find it.

http://www.altrec.com/the-north-face...e-sleeping-bag

 

I think I read that in Outside magazine, too

"Common knowledge" sells down a little short. Everyone I climb/ski with will only use down.

Whatever....your sleeping bag should never be unprotected from the elements (whether stuff sack, bivy sack, tent, and/or pad, etc.). That's the common knowledge I know of. Don't let it get wet in the first place. If you do, you've got bigger problems, to be sure.

 

A few more thoughts on buying a sleeping bag:

Zippers--Standard is on your right. It's nice if it goes nearly all the way to your feet, for ventilation and for airing-out. Try to get one w/ a 2-way zipper. Often you can get left hand zippered matching bags (to make one large bag). Most bags will have an insulated zipper flap to keep down drafts.

Collar--This is a feature you'll appreciate on the coldest nights. Usually has a draw-string closure.

Size--Mummy bags are the most efficient use of packed space. Normally available in regular & tall lengths; some available in short. There are men's & women's patterns. Compare dimensional specs.

Temperature range--Normally available in (+/-)10-degree increments from +50 degrees F down to -40. If you plan to camp where overnight temperatures may get down to freezing, you'd better get a 0 or 10-degree bag, and a really good air mattress w/ thermal reflector. Don't play it too close. A weatherproof, breathable bivy sack will advantage you about 5 degrees.

Price--$20-600. Yeah, you can buy an older used or military one cheap. Or you can get the utmost in high-loft ultra-light backpacker. An adequate 3-season bag can be bought (new) for ~$100. A great bag for perhaps $200-300. Watch for a special deal.

Loft--Very high lofts (800+) are super expensive. Low lofts (100-200) take a lot of space for little protection. The higher mid-range (450-600) is often a good compromise between packed size and cost.

Brand--Lots to choose from, and each manufacturer has a low-end, entry-level bag besides their better grade, higher-loft bags. Brands that were once considered the ultimate also make cheap bags (generally), so look at the specifications.

Where to buy--Places like REI have large selections of name-brands, and even their own excellent branded bags. But once you've decided on which bag you want, it's EZ to Google that model and find who's got the best price. In the process you might find a close-out price on one that's close enough.

Cleaning instructions--Every time you pay a dry-cleaner to do a sleeping bag, you'll wish you'd bought one you could throw in the washer. Check on it. Down bags can usually be machine washed. They take a LONG time to air dry. Some bags come w/ a separate washable liner.

There are many subtle differences between the best and worst bags, even between the same manufacturer's low and top end lines. Do your own due diligence so you know your getting your money's worth.

 

I recommend the miltary modular sleep systems. Depending on how cold you expect it to be, there is a warm weather bag, cold weather bag, and combined together an extreme cold weather system. The bag compresses down to a very small size, and it is extremely lightweight. Weighted down on patrol with 75 pounds of gear in Iraq, it was unnoticeable clipped to the back of my ruck, but then I usually only carried the warm weather portion with rain cover. In my opinion it is hard to go wrong with it. http://www.armygear.net/ag/store/00148.html . That link is for a surpuls item. New they go around $350+ but the color pattern in this link is not used in the field anymore.

 

For summer I have a 40 deg Marmot
fall I have a 20 deg Northface

I also use an REI 2.5 inch air pad which is cheaper that Thermarest and just as good if not better.

 

I have a Cabelas brand bag rated at -10 that I use for all my camping.
3/4 length 2 way zipper, draft collar w/drawstring, modified taper (wider than a mummy bag in the foot area) and a poly-cotton lining............it's like sleeping on sheets.
Sleeping on nylon gets cold and "clammy" after a few days of use.
If it's warm, I unzip it and sleep on the folded out bag.
If it's cold the draft collar really keeps the warmth in and the cold air out.
I also quit using air mattresses after I found this little jewel.
Pricey but worth every penny.
http://www.luxurylite.com/cotindex.html

Can't put a price on a good nights sleep.
A bad nights rest makes for a long day tomorrow.

 

 

+10 on that. After using them in the Marines, I bought one to use on my bike. Slept in the snow comfortably. If you arent going to be riding in the winter you can just use the bivy and green bag and be great. If its super hot just use the bivy. WATERPROOF. Most of the gear we carried was **** but this bag rocks. Matches my new bike too

 

Great info Lo-rider!

The only thing I would add/reinforce is that IMHO for all but the biggest weight weenies, Synth is preferable to down. I just do not find it practical to be on a bicycle or motorcycle and have to worry about dew/condensation, drizzle ruining my bag.

Also an expensive lesson I learned is that bag must be big enough to be comfortable. I simply cant sleep in a bivy or even a mummy bag. I bought a $300 mummy bag only to find out I need space to roll around. I ended up with a tall bag (7'7") and I use an extender wedge to be able to sleep on my side with my knees bent. I guess what I am saying is try before you buy. Go to REI and slide into a few bags. When you find one you like write down the name so that you can get the dimensions off the web and use them while comparison shopping.