How Precise is Required?
#11
not necessary if , that is if you have experiance turning wrench's.
001to 003 =tight ,no binds
010 t0 020 =a little gap
030-040 = big gap
torque = strip it out , than back off a half a turn ( takes practice)
little bolts /screws fingertight , plus a little .
big bolts , "on the handle" then as your elbow clicks , stop!!!
If you dont have experiance turning bolts, setting clearance , then read the book , and buy the proper tools ...
001to 003 =tight ,no binds
010 t0 020 =a little gap
030-040 = big gap
torque = strip it out , than back off a half a turn ( takes practice)
little bolts /screws fingertight , plus a little .
big bolts , "on the handle" then as your elbow clicks , stop!!!
If you dont have experiance turning bolts, setting clearance , then read the book , and buy the proper tools ...
#13
Nice torque specs...
not necessary if , that is if you have experiance turning wrench's.
001to 003 =tight ,no binds
010 t0 020 =a little gap
030-040 = big gap
torque = strip it out , than back off a half a turn ( takes practice)
little bolts /screws fingertight , plus a little .
big bolts , "on the handle" then as your elbow clicks , stop!!!
If you dont have experiance turning bolts, setting clearance , then read the book , and buy the proper tools ...
001to 003 =tight ,no binds
010 t0 020 =a little gap
030-040 = big gap
torque = strip it out , than back off a half a turn ( takes practice)
little bolts /screws fingertight , plus a little .
big bolts , "on the handle" then as your elbow clicks , stop!!!
If you dont have experiance turning bolts, setting clearance , then read the book , and buy the proper tools ...
Hey i used this way for years until i bought a TQ wrench and never had any issues....Torque smorque...
#14
This is what you need, get the level spec from your manual - overfill the forks - cycle to remove air - measure the tube and lock it down - suck out the excess oil - DONE and both are the same.
#15
...
1. Replacing fork oil on my FLSTN called for 392 cc or 12.9 oz of oil. Those are pretty specific figures, so I got to wondering how precise one must be in adding the oil. What would be the effect of putting more/less oil in the fork -- e.g., a few cc's more or less?
2. I read a comment on another post that HD's torque specifications were generally too high. Looking at my service manual, torque specs are in some cases very broad (e.g., 18-24 ft-lbs, 30-45 ft-lbs, 144-180 in-lbs). When given such a broad range, how do you determine what to use?...
1. Replacing fork oil on my FLSTN called for 392 cc or 12.9 oz of oil. Those are pretty specific figures, so I got to wondering how precise one must be in adding the oil. What would be the effect of putting more/less oil in the fork -- e.g., a few cc's more or less?
2. I read a comment on another post that HD's torque specifications were generally too high. Looking at my service manual, torque specs are in some cases very broad (e.g., 18-24 ft-lbs, 30-45 ft-lbs, 144-180 in-lbs). When given such a broad range, how do you determine what to use?...
How important is a torque wrench?--Well, how much fun is removing a broken fastener? Or repairing a stripped hole? All manufacturers use them. All top-grade mechanics use them. Though a busy professional might develop excellent "feel" for the various fastener torques, everyone else would do well to use a torque wrench.
Torque range.--While service manuals comprehensively list a range of torque values for virtually all fasteners, common sense tells us that some of these fasteners are not torque-sensitive, and can be "eye-balled". Because each wrench has its' own internal tolerances, I set torque in the middle of the specified range, when installing. When checking critical fastener torque, I generally set the wrench to the minimum figure, so as not to unnecessarily disturb any Loctite bond. Critical fasteners should be checked w/ a torque wrench, if for no other reason than that you will know, instantly, when one has begun to loosen, and take steps to correct future problems.
Measuring liquids.--The need to balance and make both fork levels equal should be obvious: the pair of forks must equally share the total workload if precise handling is expected. The affects of improper levels and large differences in oil quantities will be very noticeable. A skinny, graduated measuring container (photo supply) will assure precisely the same amounts. Most hypo-type syringes are graduated. A small precision scale can help, too, when extremely precise quantities are needed.
Last edited by lo-rider; 06-15-2011 at 08:52 PM.
#16
An $80 syringe? Thanks for the info, but I think I'll stick with my graduated cylinder, and since I'm not disassembling the forks I'll use the volume specs.
Last edited by PPBART; 06-15-2011 at 08:52 PM. Reason: remove image
#17
I am a perfectionist, every fastener has a tourque value, and if it say's 350cc's it means 350cc's.
If I wanted it done half assed I let the dealership's work on my stuff.
for real, do everything to the ''t'', and leave no doubt you have done the job properl and to the best of your ability, cut no corners.
If I wanted it done half assed I let the dealership's work on my stuff.
for real, do everything to the ''t'', and leave no doubt you have done the job properl and to the best of your ability, cut no corners.
#19
I WOULD LIKE TO GET WILDCARD AND HIS AVATAR TO HELP ME ON MY ADJUSTMENTS/WORK.
Last edited by CHOPPIN' CHARLIE; 06-16-2011 at 11:12 AM.
#20
I ain't gonna add to the torque wrench discussion. Buy one. Use it. It will be your friend!
Regarding the amount of oil to put in the fork tubes - Maybe I am retarded and not remembering correctly, but I think either my 1965 BSA or my 1972 sportster had a screw in the slider (similar to the drain screw on the modern bikes). When adding fluid, you would take the screw out and dump oil in until it came out the hole. I'd tie a rag around the slider to soak up the excess oil, dump in the oil, go drink a six-pack, come back and reinstall the screw. No need to measure anything. Why doesn't HD use a similar system????
Regarding the amount of oil to put in the fork tubes - Maybe I am retarded and not remembering correctly, but I think either my 1965 BSA or my 1972 sportster had a screw in the slider (similar to the drain screw on the modern bikes). When adding fluid, you would take the screw out and dump oil in until it came out the hole. I'd tie a rag around the slider to soak up the excess oil, dump in the oil, go drink a six-pack, come back and reinstall the screw. No need to measure anything. Why doesn't HD use a similar system????
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