one more thing i have never been convinced that you need to balance a motor cycle tire, the fricken tires dont last long enough any way to justify paying for a balance and i myself could never feel a difference in a balanced tire and a non balanced tire that was properly set on the wheel and if you disagree with me go ahead and spend some more money!!!!!!

 

If you don't change your tires on a frequent basis I would recommend the Motorcycle Superstore Preferred Installer plan. Their tire prices are as low as you will find give or take a buck and they have the Preferred Installer network of local installers that wiill mount your tires for you. If you are a do it yourselfer you will probably want to invest in some equipment. The equation is very similar to money and performance. The degree of difficulty decreases in proportion to the amount of money you spend on equipment. I have done everything from the the truck/2x4 bead breaker and spoons route to a No Mar unit and everything in between. I prefer the ease of the No Mar although all the processes work. It just depends on how much physical effort you want to put into the job. I currently can purchase, mount and balance both the front and rear tires on my Heritage for just under $200. One other thing that I have learned is that as long as I can mount and balance tires I will never be wanting for "friends."

 

You have a lot of good advice but not all your questions were answered.

How hard is it?
It will make you break a good sweat but isn't that difficult.

How hard is balancing?
1) There is a mark on every motorcycle tire, that if you line it up with the valve stem it will be pre-balanced. I've never had an out-of-balance tire using this method.

2) Dyna beads are your second option. They aren't that expensive and have received great reviews. They require a filtered valve core.

What tools will you need.
a) something to break the bead. 2 Large C-clamps will work or you can build a bead breaker from different plans on the net. None are very expensive.
b) a rubber hammer. I like a smaller one.
c) you will need 2 tire spoons or tire tools. Rubber coated are best. Longer tools give you more leverage, but are difficult to travel with.
d) A sponge and a bottle of dishwashing soap for lubricant and to help the bead seal when airing back up.
e) access to an air compressor
f) Three 6" pieces of water hose cut lengthwise. I use these to protect my alloy wheels from tire tool marks.
g) A torque wrench to tighten everything up when you are done.
h) a valve core tool

A helpful hint: Work from the side opposite of your brake disc if you are running a single disc.

Motorcyclesuperstore has the cheapest tire prices I have found.

I think that answers the questions you posed. If you have any other questions, please post them.

Oh, 1 more thing. You will need a tube a loctite anti-sieze lube for the motorcycle axle.

 

If you want to change tires, a $39.95 HF changer and bead breaker makes it easy. Wedge anchor it to the floor (or an outside concrete pad). Soapy water for lube and some pieces of wood cut 1/2 x 1 x 6" as bead locks. A few tire irons (if you can find some old tractor irons that's good for the tough ones. On tubeless tires I use air soft pellets (same principle as Dyna Beads. On tube type I'm now using the genuine article (more expensive).

Did a front radial and and a set of brake pads on my wife's V-Rod yesterday morning. Between the tire, mounting and pad replacement p&l saved at least $100. Better in my pocket than the dealer's, and I know the job was done correctly.

 

Daddyknuck is right about getting the job done right. Does the dealer or indy you go to take your axle and wash it? Does he take the time to wash out the inside of the hubs? Or is he just smearing more anti-sieze on it?

Is he checking the lock washers to see if they have splayed out of shape? (and they will)
Or just tightening everything back?

 

I think that's just 2 sentences, but I stopped reading it half way through...

 

Personally, I like to save money when I can but for some reason changing my own tires doesn't interest me. Something about going 180km / hr I don't want to find out that I screwed up and have a blow out.

Besides, I found a local shop that will change the tires for free with the purchase of a new set. Which are priced reasonably. That's what I did this time, I just bought a new set btw.

 

Thanks for all the input. After doing a little research I found I can save $350 from what I was quoted by buying the tires on line. I will check some local shops and see what they will charge to mount the tires for me if I bring the wheels in. If I can't find any of the "deals" that ya'll have I will spend $150 on some tools and give it a try myself.

 

im surprised that you know how to read at all,were talking tire changes looser change one or just shut up already!

 

Yeah... As I was reading it, the thought "someone needs to reduce their caffeine intake" came to mind...