repairing/maintaining your own bike
#11
Basic maintenance on a late model Harley is a piece of cake that can be done with the most rudimentary hand tools. A Snap-on roll around and a wall full of special tools are helpful of you're overhauling or restoring a bike, but way more than needed for the routine stuff. You really don't need a lift unless you're changing tires. Even then, depending on the strength of your wallet and back, a milk crate will do the job.
My suggestion to anyone just starting out is to have a friend that has done it enough times to be comfortable with the process walk them through it. There once was a time when working on a Harley was more art than science. Now it's possible to do a complete service with almost no need for "feel."
In addition to saving a few bucks, one of the key benefits of doing your own maintenance is being able to obsess over the details on your own machine. Rather than taking a chance with a dealer newbie, or an experienced wrench cutting corners to beat the flat rate, you can take all the time you need and tighten that loose bolt that might otherwise be missed.
Good luck.
My suggestion to anyone just starting out is to have a friend that has done it enough times to be comfortable with the process walk them through it. There once was a time when working on a Harley was more art than science. Now it's possible to do a complete service with almost no need for "feel."
In addition to saving a few bucks, one of the key benefits of doing your own maintenance is being able to obsess over the details on your own machine. Rather than taking a chance with a dealer newbie, or an experienced wrench cutting corners to beat the flat rate, you can take all the time you need and tighten that loose bolt that might otherwise be missed.
Good luck.
#12
Just my opinion and I work on all I own but say on a scale of 1-10 working on Harley's are 10 compared to say most cars are a 5 and my last 1100 Yamaha was a 7. Biggest problems with Harley's is you need some special tools and improvising can lead to frustration. You need your owners manual or a good service manual to just change the oil. You look under 99% of all cars and you can tell were the oll drain is. Most newbys look under a Harley and see a maze of drain looking plugs around the real one. What amazes me is Harley does not label them on the engine, transmission and primary. Ever thing is loctited and finished so if you are not careful you can make a mess of the shine changing the fork oil. Maybe I should have rated the Harley a 10 1/2.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; 05-28-2011 at 07:42 PM.
#13
Just my opinion and I work on all I own but say on a scale of 1-10 working on Harley's are 10 compared to say most cars are a 5 and my last 1100 Yamaha was a 7. Biggest problems with Harley's is you need some special tools and improvising can lead to frustration. You need your owners manual or a good service manual to just change the oil. You look under 99% of all cars and you can tell were the oll drain is. Most newbys look under a Harley and see a maze of drain looking plugs around the real one. What amazes me is Harley does not label them on the engine, transmission and primary. Ever thing is loctited and finished so if you are not careful you can make a mess of the shine changing the fork oil. Maybe I should have rated the Harley a 10 1/2.
#14
There are alot of places on line to get help doing your repairs..Harleyhog's Lair ..is a good one with step by step instructions and lots O pics ..get some good tools as harley uses both torx and alen head bolts and you don't want to round them off ..www.georges-garage.com is great for the american made specilty tools you will need ... I got the stuff I needed to do the cam chain tensioner change from them and I have mine torn down right now for new rings and an upgrade on the cam plate/oil pump and a different set of cams ..as for parts ..it seems there are all kinds of places to buy real Harley parts and if you shop around I even saved a bunch on parts by dealing online with a Harley dealer from NY and I'm in LA. ..saved me almost half on the parts for the upgrade as compared to the local dealer ..and that is with the shipping .......
#15
Though it's not essential, you'll want a lift to do the fall-away adjustment, at least, and it helps for cleaning/polishing laced wheels, changing primary fluid,... Mine is the red Craftsman, bought used for $60.
For tools, start w/ a comprehensive emergency roadside repair kit assembled specifically for your bike: hex & Torx keys, combination wrenches & socket set, 6-way screwdriver, needle-nosed pliers, ... My basic kit includes a Ford Model T(?) monkey wrench (for the big stuff).
You'll also need inch/pound and foot/pound torque wrenches; beam-type is cheapest. An old darkroom tray makes a great drain pan. Look for deals on used tools; avoid cheap imports. You'll probably spend more having a dealer do one service.
Edit to add: Take your time looking over your bike; checking each critical fastener, plus other exposed fasteners, for size and type of wrenches/driver-tips required, a very modest kit of mostly standard SAE tools, plus a few odd dedicated metrics. In the absence of already having a set of tools w/ which to check size, a dial caliper is handy.
Get a basic Harley Torx-key set from Cruz, or a tip set in 1/4" or 3/8"-drive; same w/ Allens.
For tools, start w/ a comprehensive emergency roadside repair kit assembled specifically for your bike: hex & Torx keys, combination wrenches & socket set, 6-way screwdriver, needle-nosed pliers, ... My basic kit includes a Ford Model T(?) monkey wrench (for the big stuff).
You'll also need inch/pound and foot/pound torque wrenches; beam-type is cheapest. An old darkroom tray makes a great drain pan. Look for deals on used tools; avoid cheap imports. You'll probably spend more having a dealer do one service.
Edit to add: Take your time looking over your bike; checking each critical fastener, plus other exposed fasteners, for size and type of wrenches/driver-tips required, a very modest kit of mostly standard SAE tools, plus a few odd dedicated metrics. In the absence of already having a set of tools w/ which to check size, a dial caliper is handy.
Get a basic Harley Torx-key set from Cruz, or a tip set in 1/4" or 3/8"-drive; same w/ Allens.
Last edited by lo-rider; 05-28-2011 at 08:29 PM. Reason: footnote
#16
Going to go half with a friend on these DVD's!
I just had my first 1K service check! I'm sure the money I save could be used for future mods!
#17
Though it's not essential, you'll want a lift to do the fall-away adjustment, at least, and it helps for cleaning/polishing laced wheels, changing primary fluid,... Mine is the red Craftsman, bought used for $60.
For tools, start w/ a comprehensive emergency roadside repair kit assembled specifically for your bike: hex & Torx keys, combination wrenches & socket set, 6-way screwdriver, needle-nosed pliers, ... My basic kit includes a Ford Model T(?) monkey wrench (for the big stuff).
You'll also need inch/pound and foot/pound torque wrenches; beam-type is cheapest. An old darkroom tray makes a great drain pan. Look for deals on used tools; avoid cheap imports. You'll probably spend more having a dealer do one service.
Edit to add: Take your time looking over your bike; checking each critical fastener, plus other exposed fasteners, for size and type of wrenches/driver-tips required, a very modest kit of mostly standard SAE tools, plus a few odd dedicated metrics. In the absence of already having a set of tools w/ which to check size, a dial caliper is handy.
Get a basic Harley Torx-key set from Cruz, or a tip set in 1/4" or 3/8"-drive; same w/ Allens.
For tools, start w/ a comprehensive emergency roadside repair kit assembled specifically for your bike: hex & Torx keys, combination wrenches & socket set, 6-way screwdriver, needle-nosed pliers, ... My basic kit includes a Ford Model T(?) monkey wrench (for the big stuff).
You'll also need inch/pound and foot/pound torque wrenches; beam-type is cheapest. An old darkroom tray makes a great drain pan. Look for deals on used tools; avoid cheap imports. You'll probably spend more having a dealer do one service.
Edit to add: Take your time looking over your bike; checking each critical fastener, plus other exposed fasteners, for size and type of wrenches/driver-tips required, a very modest kit of mostly standard SAE tools, plus a few odd dedicated metrics. In the absence of already having a set of tools w/ which to check size, a dial caliper is handy.
Get a basic Harley Torx-key set from Cruz, or a tip set in 1/4" or 3/8"-drive; same w/ Allens.
Thank you for that information! All good stuff!
#18
Just my opinion and I work on all I own but say on a scale of 1-10 working on Harley's are 10 compared to say most cars are a 5 and my last 1100 Yamaha was a 7. Biggest problems with Harley's is you need some special tools and improvising can lead to frustration. You need your owners manual or a good service manual to just change the oil. You look under 99% of all cars and you can tell were the oll drain is. Most newbys look under a Harley and see a maze of drain looking plugs around the real one. What amazes me is Harley does not label them on the engine, transmission and primary. Ever thing is loctited and finished so if you are not careful you can make a mess of the shine changing the fork oil. Maybe I should have rated the Harley a 10 1/2.
I agree, I bought a ser vice manual like everyone on here says to do but other than basic service I think the manual can get very complicated. I have not sat down and studied it yet but for example removing cams You would need to know the procedure like tank removal etc. I don't think it takes you through all the steps. Like I said I have not looked very closely yet at the manual as I just got it but things didn't as simple as I expected from what I read on here about the manuals
#19
I find my Harley much easier to maintain than the metrics I've owned. No valve lash to worry about, no chain, no rear diff fluid changes in the case of shafties, no balancing a bank of 4 carbs. I also like that the engine isn't a shared sump with the tranny & clutch. (I do miss the hydraulic clutch, tho...)
You shouldn't need a lift unless you just want one for wheel polishing and whatnot. Any decent tool kit will have most of what you need. As mentioned make sure you have Torx & allen drivers, as well as a torque wrench, a belt deflection gauge is nice, a big socket and wrench (don't remember the sizes right off) for the rear axle nut & bolt is needed when adjusting belt tension, and keep plenty of Loc Tite blue on hand for screws. Get a HD service manual (I have both printed & CD.) It's easy to follow and it walks you through all the basics pretty well. For things you're not 100% clear on you can post in this forum and often get an answer in minutes.
You'll be surprised how easy basic maintenance is on your Harley...
You shouldn't need a lift unless you just want one for wheel polishing and whatnot. Any decent tool kit will have most of what you need. As mentioned make sure you have Torx & allen drivers, as well as a torque wrench, a belt deflection gauge is nice, a big socket and wrench (don't remember the sizes right off) for the rear axle nut & bolt is needed when adjusting belt tension, and keep plenty of Loc Tite blue on hand for screws. Get a HD service manual (I have both printed & CD.) It's easy to follow and it walks you through all the basics pretty well. For things you're not 100% clear on you can post in this forum and often get an answer in minutes.
You'll be surprised how easy basic maintenance is on your Harley...
#20
doing the general maint and repairs to your bike is a breeze, I do reccomend you get a lift, preferably a table lift, they can be found for 5-700 bills. working on the ground gets old, and the jack style lifts will get you by though.