Regulator and Stator
#21
01-20-2011, 07:32 AM
Ultimate HDF Member
http://www.cycleelectricinc.com/
The CE-85T is a direct replacement for the stock system on 2008-2010 Dyna models.
#22
01-20-2011, 08:27 AM
It bites that at 2 / 3 years and 12,000 + miles you need to tear into it for an overhaul of the recharging system.
Do you have secondary "headlights", like spot lights added? Too many high draw lighting accessories can overload the stators ability and overheat it.
A shorting or grounding anywhere in the electrical, especially in the regulator overloads the stator too.
Also a poorly maintained battery, even fairly new, that will not hold a deep charge, causes the bike to attempt to constantly give it a full output to attempt to reach the needed voltage for both running and charging. So a questionable battery, even one that seems to function, may lead to a stator / regulator failure.
That part number appears to lead to a complete kit. Unless your changing from the original output typically the rotor doesn't fail (the magnets have been known to separate). This kit includes an upgraded / aftermarket regulator and would be a benefit. Might get just the two components a bit cheaper separately.
So the system claims 32 amp at an idle and a peak output of 50 amps at the 2,500 rpm mark. That's a good amount of charge for the larger, newer bikes.
IF you do have a lot of aftermarket lighting accessories consider this to be the time to upgrade the electrical completely with a 3 phase system that delivers higher recharge / usage rate, even at an idle. Also consider converting bulbs to LED which draw a lot less than stock bulbs.
Too low of an idle may be an issue, although you should have a modern EFI that maintains a higher idle on it own. Low idle, low recharge output, battery powering the bike at slow speeds or an idle may not be getting enough re-charging too.
Do you have secondary "headlights", like spot lights added? Too many high draw lighting accessories can overload the stators ability and overheat it.
A shorting or grounding anywhere in the electrical, especially in the regulator overloads the stator too.
Also a poorly maintained battery, even fairly new, that will not hold a deep charge, causes the bike to attempt to constantly give it a full output to attempt to reach the needed voltage for both running and charging. So a questionable battery, even one that seems to function, may lead to a stator / regulator failure.
That part number appears to lead to a complete kit. Unless your changing from the original output typically the rotor doesn't fail (the magnets have been known to separate). This kit includes an upgraded / aftermarket regulator and would be a benefit. Might get just the two components a bit cheaper separately.
So the system claims 32 amp at an idle and a peak output of 50 amps at the 2,500 rpm mark. That's a good amount of charge for the larger, newer bikes.
IF you do have a lot of aftermarket lighting accessories consider this to be the time to upgrade the electrical completely with a 3 phase system that delivers higher recharge / usage rate, even at an idle. Also consider converting bulbs to LED which draw a lot less than stock bulbs.
Too low of an idle may be an issue, although you should have a modern EFI that maintains a higher idle on it own. Low idle, low recharge output, battery powering the bike at slow speeds or an idle may not be getting enough re-charging too.
#24
01-20-2011, 04:31 PM
It bites that at 2 / 3 years and 12,000 + miles you need to tear into it for an overhaul of the recharging system.
Do you have secondary "headlights", like spot lights added? Too many high draw lighting accessories can overload the stators ability and overheat it.
A shorting or grounding anywhere in the electrical, especially in the regulator overloads the stator too.
Also a poorly maintained battery, even fairly new, that will not hold a deep charge, causes the bike to attempt to constantly give it a full output to attempt to reach the needed voltage for both running and charging. So a questionable battery, even one that seems to function, may lead to a stator / regulator failure.
That part number appears to lead to a complete kit. Unless your changing from the original output typically the rotor doesn't fail (the magnets have been known to separate). This kit includes an upgraded / aftermarket regulator and would be a benefit. Might get just the two components a bit cheaper separately.
So the system claims 32 amp at an idle and a peak output of 50 amps at the 2,500 rpm mark. That's a good amount of charge for the larger, newer bikes.
IF you do have a lot of aftermarket lighting accessories consider this to be the time to upgrade the electrical completely with a 3 phase system that delivers higher recharge / usage rate, even at an idle. Also consider converting bulbs to LED which draw a lot less than stock bulbs.
Too low of an idle may be an issue, although you should have a modern EFI that maintains a higher idle on it own. Low idle, low recharge output, battery powering the bike at slow speeds or an idle may not be getting enough re-charging too.
Do you have secondary "headlights", like spot lights added? Too many high draw lighting accessories can overload the stators ability and overheat it.
A shorting or grounding anywhere in the electrical, especially in the regulator overloads the stator too.
Also a poorly maintained battery, even fairly new, that will not hold a deep charge, causes the bike to attempt to constantly give it a full output to attempt to reach the needed voltage for both running and charging. So a questionable battery, even one that seems to function, may lead to a stator / regulator failure.
That part number appears to lead to a complete kit. Unless your changing from the original output typically the rotor doesn't fail (the magnets have been known to separate). This kit includes an upgraded / aftermarket regulator and would be a benefit. Might get just the two components a bit cheaper separately.
So the system claims 32 amp at an idle and a peak output of 50 amps at the 2,500 rpm mark. That's a good amount of charge for the larger, newer bikes.
IF you do have a lot of aftermarket lighting accessories consider this to be the time to upgrade the electrical completely with a 3 phase system that delivers higher recharge / usage rate, even at an idle. Also consider converting bulbs to LED which draw a lot less than stock bulbs.
Too low of an idle may be an issue, although you should have a modern EFI that maintains a higher idle on it own. Low idle, low recharge output, battery powering the bike at slow speeds or an idle may not be getting enough re-charging too.
#25
01-20-2011, 05:08 PM
Ultimate HDF Member
It bites that at 2 / 3 years and 12,000 + miles you need to tear into it for an overhaul of the recharging system.
Do you have secondary "headlights", like spot lights added? Too many high draw lighting accessories can overload the stators ability and overheat it.
A shorting or grounding anywhere in the electrical, especially in the regulator overloads the stator too.
Also a poorly maintained battery, even fairly new, that will not hold a deep charge, causes the bike to attempt to constantly give it a full output to attempt to reach the needed voltage for both running and charging. So a questionable battery, even one that seems to function, may lead to a stator / regulator failure.
That part number appears to lead to a complete kit. Unless your changing from the original output typically the rotor doesn't fail (the magnets have been known to separate). This kit includes an upgraded / aftermarket regulator and would be a benefit. Might get just the two components a bit cheaper separately.
So the system claims 32 amp at an idle and a peak output of 50 amps at the 2,500 rpm mark. That's a good amount of charge for the larger, newer bikes.
IF you do have a lot of aftermarket lighting accessories consider this to be the time to upgrade the electrical completely with a 3 phase system that delivers higher recharge / usage rate, even at an idle. Also consider converting bulbs to LED which draw a lot less than stock bulbs.
Too low of an idle may be an issue, although you should have a modern EFI that maintains a higher idle on it own. Low idle, low recharge output, battery powering the bike at slow speeds or an idle may not be getting enough re-charging too.
Do you have secondary "headlights", like spot lights added? Too many high draw lighting accessories can overload the stators ability and overheat it.
A shorting or grounding anywhere in the electrical, especially in the regulator overloads the stator too.
Also a poorly maintained battery, even fairly new, that will not hold a deep charge, causes the bike to attempt to constantly give it a full output to attempt to reach the needed voltage for both running and charging. So a questionable battery, even one that seems to function, may lead to a stator / regulator failure.
That part number appears to lead to a complete kit. Unless your changing from the original output typically the rotor doesn't fail (the magnets have been known to separate). This kit includes an upgraded / aftermarket regulator and would be a benefit. Might get just the two components a bit cheaper separately.
So the system claims 32 amp at an idle and a peak output of 50 amps at the 2,500 rpm mark. That's a good amount of charge for the larger, newer bikes.
IF you do have a lot of aftermarket lighting accessories consider this to be the time to upgrade the electrical completely with a 3 phase system that delivers higher recharge / usage rate, even at an idle. Also consider converting bulbs to LED which draw a lot less than stock bulbs.
Too low of an idle may be an issue, although you should have a modern EFI that maintains a higher idle on it own. Low idle, low recharge output, battery powering the bike at slow speeds or an idle may not be getting enough re-charging too.
+1 You have to use all the same components in the 3 phase system. Seeing how only Cycle Electric makes a 3 phase for Harley they are the only choice.
If you use the single phase system then you can buy your parts from here or there.
Me personally, I try to keep all the parts from the same manufacturer.
I put together a single phase stator and rectifying regulator from Cycle Electric in.
Last edited by xFreebirdx; 01-20-2011 at 05:08 PM. Reason: speeling
#26
01-20-2011, 09:21 PM
When I looked up the part number I thought it was for stock replacement.
You do have to replace all 3 components 3 phase. The benefit will be a more constant higher output at lower revs.
I needed the kit to have a rotor and the regulator to match the new stator when I moved from the smoked stock setup of only 22 amps to the 32 amp upgrade. Would have liked to installed the 3 phase.
You do have to replace all 3 components 3 phase. The benefit will be a more constant higher output at lower revs.
I needed the kit to have a rotor and the regulator to match the new stator when I moved from the smoked stock setup of only 22 amps to the 32 amp upgrade. Would have liked to installed the 3 phase.
#27
01-21-2011, 07:47 AM
Ultimate HDF Member
50,000 plus miles on an 03 and 30,000 on a 98 and only had to replace regulator on one a few years back. They are still going strong but parked in the garage this week till the weather gets better. I have no gripes about original equipment.
#28
05-26-2012, 07:11 AM
I just upgraded my charging system to a 3-phase system, bought both the stator and the regulator from E-bay, if your handy with stuff it was easy. The Stator was from an 01 Softail, the regulator was from an 06. Had to modify the mounting bracket for the old EVO mount, (the holes were too close, had to use standoffs so the regulator would not interfere with engine mount.) The stator was an exact fit except for the rubber part that goes through the case...I have a dry primary so that was not an issue. Used the same rotor, works great. Maybe with the newer rotor with lots of smaller magnets it mite work a bit better. Bottom line is that by careful shopping, a bit of inginuity, and a few parts I have a nice 3 phase charging system for way less than $100.00. Stator $43.00 shipped, Regulator $33.00, duetsch connector, $10.00, total $86.00. Now my old FXR has lots of electricity...luvit
#29
05-26-2012, 10:07 AM
So I have a question to all of you that have had to replace these, are you using synthetic oil? My Indy claims he replaces most of these electric components on bikes that run synthetic oil. Just wanting to see what the consensus is on this. Just his theory so I want to check to see!
#30
05-26-2012, 11:08 AM
Club Member
it is believed that Cycle electric makes the stuff for HD.
I just replaced my Stator "CE" and Regulator on my 08 FXDC
And we just replaced the Stator and Reg on my Brothers 99 Nighttrain.
The instructions that came with the Stator, says to always replace the Reg along with the Stator.
I just replaced my Stator "CE" and Regulator on my 08 FXDC
And we just replaced the Stator and Reg on my Brothers 99 Nighttrain.
The instructions that came with the Stator, says to always replace the Reg along with the Stator.