Do not do power shifts on my Harley but if I am reading this correctly you like it at the top and bottom. How do you set it for both?
May have to get some more interpretation. I know at least what I said in my original post 6 was what I thought was happening and my clutch does start to grab as soon as the lever starts away about 5/8" from the bars. I was in my primary a while back (see my album) It was then I was finishing up and adjusting clutch and noting to myself how as you pulled lever in that the front clutch hub pulls in and and flattens the diaphragm which let the friction plates which are outer driven by the clutch shell (large piece that the primary chain drives) disks come away from the driven steel disks that have their smaller driving teeth on the inside that drive the clutch hub that is splined that drives thru to the transmission. There is a clutch hub bearing between the two that only spins when you have clutch pulled in hence if it goes bad you would have noise only then from it. There is also a flat thrust bearing on the push rod that the clutch adjustment is on. This bearing (throw out bearing and is located in far right side of transmission were the clutch cable goes in.) would spin all the time is you did not have a little free play in cable at leaver. It should only spin when clutch is pulled in. Here is where I get a little confused and may be for over thinking it. When you pull in the clutch leaver it pulls a inner ramp around that has three ***** that run in radial slot that angle outward hence as it comes around it pushes away from the outer ramp and back hence the clutch push rod which flattens the clutch diaphragm spring. When you adjust the clutch you break the locknut free on the clutch pushrod and screw the inner screw in till there is no play making the push rod longer. This screw is screwed into a plate that hooks to the pressure plate. Hence if you left it with no turns out as soon as you pulled the lever the clutch would start to release. Stands to reason the more you loosen it the further up the lever travel would go until you reached a point the lever would no longer release the clutch. However this appears to be opposite of what I originally said.

 

Mine is adjusted the same way.

 

http://www.ehow.com/video_2330184_ad...utch-pack.html

 

Is it just me, or does this practice sound a little odd?

 

Same here. I can get mine into neutral easier with less free play/more clutch pull. That's how I run it. The dealer set mine up too loose, didn't like it at all and neutral was impossible to find.

 

I find that when I come to a stop and have a hard time finding neutral, I just twist the throttle a little to increase the rpm's just a little faster than idle, then it pops right into neutral.

 

For a loose screw?

 

test test

 

test stea

 

just after the light turns green.