Can't agree with that statement, primo. I have about $5K total in the bike in my sig, and that includes the $3000 for the donor bike (at 1999 1200S in decent condition). They certainly are a blast to run around on - but not as your only ride.

 

1978 Ironhead...I'll ride it all day long, I'm pushin' 46
If I do another it'll prob. come from these guys...

http://www.flyritechoppers.com/catal...09_catalog.pdf

 

Absolutely! I bought a Big Dog Ridgeback hardtail a few years ago. Thinking, no problem, i'll only be doing short trips on the thing anyway. I tell you...after a few miles on that thing i felt like someone kidney punched me a dozen times. Talk about a rough ride. I sold it after less than a year of ownership. Never again!

 

I built my rigid evo with a harley motor for about five grand with some used and new parts. But I was doing the work and not paying a shop. It is comfortable enough but if the bike is not made to fit you and the seating position that is comfortable then it will not be comfortable. My rigid is what I ride everyday. I use my 2006 dyna for the long miles of 200 or more in most cases. But if you are looking around you can find better kits out there cheaper.

 

Nicely set up and clean , built a few that style over the years for people and never see them that well taken care anymore . Kudos man .


The LA Hells Angels sanctioned and built a 113" 6sp chain drive hardtail chopper called the "Big Red Machine " back around 2002 or so , only 81 made of course . I've built and ridden more choppers over the years than most people have ever seen and that bike gave me a hardon everytime I took one out for a test ride after a service . Absolutely awesome combination and design , rode very nicely and handled better than most stockers , jumping the front wheel at 65 just hitting it was ball out too !!

You want something that works look that one up and style your build after it . I'm 56 it's my next toy .

 

all harley made for the first 55 years was a hardtail.. nothing wrong with them as long as you miss the potholes and speed bumps..that chopper kit would be pretty simiular to a 50's chopper except a better charging/ignition sysyem and most of the oil says inside the engine now..not any where neer as cool thou..i have a 72 flh the shocks are rock hard,wont even budge when i bounce on it,im 370lbs..ironheads are the same way. shock bikes might as well be ridged anyway..

 

I think, for what you get, it a tad too expensive. But it also has some good points too. I built my bike from the frame up, but I used a lot of parts from ACM.

The majority of the minor parts on that bike are going to be from Ultima and DNA. For instance the transmission is an Ultima six speed that sells for $600 (from Jireh Cycles) and I've got one in my bike that's been trouble free. But if you research it you'll see they can be hit or miss. And even a good one, while it gets the job done, won't be a smooth as a Baker (hey, nothing is) or even a stock Harley transmission. My best advise on it would be to fill it with heavy duty Redline Shockproof oil and keep your fingers crossed.

The wheels are DNA, but not the 80 spoke ones, which, at least in my opinion, don't look as good, but more important if you ride hard you're liable to break spokes. So with DNA the more spokes the better.

The carburetor being a Mikuni 42 is good. It's what I have and after installation I was amazed it ran great right out of the box. And it's a good fit (jetting wise) to either of the motor options offered.

My frame is a Santee but this frame being a Kraft Tech is also good. They are solid frames with a good reputation. However, I'm not sure about the how they set up the front end. The frame look too high in the front. Generally you want your lower frame rails sitting level (parallel) with the ground. But I know why the might have done that. The forward controls (also looks like Ultima) are the type that hang much too low and you'll scrape the bottom of them when turning corners (at least until you get used to it.) And for what it's worth they are generally uncomfortable as hell.

The belt drive is okay. It's also a $600 item from Ultima called the "Street Drive" and it comes with an Alto clutch pack. This drive comes optional with a guard but it's another $600. And with the way the forwards are set up you're going to catch your pant leg in the front pulley until again, you get used to it. But the first time it happens it's going to scare the **** out of you, LOL. And with good jeans being 50 bucks a pop you'll have to get used to it before buying the optional $600 guard would have been the better deal.

The LaPere seats are great quality but man, those have to be about the ugliest ones they make. There's no flow between the seat and that (WTF) pillion.

As for motors, since they give you a choice. I'd go with the 80" Evo. That will get you a brand new '99 model Evo straight from the MOCO. They sell for about $3000 without a carb or ignition. This is a light weight bike so the Evo will have enough grunt and building it up later is always an option. The Revtec motor option will get you a few more ponies but, gee Revtec, if the option included an Ultima motor I say go either way. But even though Revtec has worked out their problems since the their first generation motors there's a stink on them that hasn't fully dissipated yet.

The gas tank looks like it was stuck on there as an afterthought. But, like any bike you buy, you're going to change it up, so that's not a deal breaker.

In the end the most important thing is who and how they put it together. I know they've been building turn key bikes like this for some time, but how they shimmed and lined everything up, particularly the driveline, is going to be the difference between you being happy or having headaches down the road.

My build came out (money wise) about $5000 cheaper than this bike. But I also spent a year and half scrounging parts, fiddling to make things work, and fabbing a lot of stuff like license plate holders, bungs, brackets, painting it, and whatnot. But I enjoyed that process and you may not. So if you have the 15G to spend I'd say go for it. Also, not knowing what state you live in, the bike coming with a manufacturers' title will make the registration process easier and your insurance cheaper. (Although in California registering mine as a special construction was easy and being in my fifties the insurance tab wasn't bad at all.)

As far as it being a hard-tail, like mine, it depends on you. Blasting down the freeway with your buddies who are riding Softails at 80 mph you'll be hating life. But there's some things you can do. The ergonomics have to be spot on. In other words the seat position, in relation to the forwards, in relation to the handlebars has to fit you perfectly, and the chances that this bike will fit you right off the bat is rather nill. But you can fix all that.

A few last things to figure out is; Make them spell out what's optional in the "bikes pictured" as they aren't making that clear in the E-Bay ad copy. Also figure out the shipping as that could be a bundle if you can't go and pick it up and you live a good distance away from them. Also there is no mention in the ad copy of any overall warranty. You should get warranties with the major parts, the motor, trans, and belt drive unless these parts have been sitting around their shop for a while so ask about that. Also is there an overall warranty on their work? Depending on who put this together it could be a peach or a lemon, and for 15G you should get some amount of protection.

ACM never stiffed me on any parts I bought from them, but they are a high volume low price parts dealer that lives or dies on sales volume. So if you know exactly what part you want, and know how to make it fit, they are fine. But if you're the type that must have your aftermarket parts fit exactly right, or you're in the tall grass, you won't be happy with them. Because, from what I've read, their after the sale customer service is lacking. But that's how it is with low priced parts, you'll get the parts, and if you pay more, the service, but you'll never get both on discount parts.

One last thing is I wouldn't consider this bike purely turn key. (But I don't consider a new MOCO stocker turn key either, LOL) So don't just unbox it and ride off into the sunset. I'd go over it with a fine tooth comb. If you don't know what to look for have someone with you that does.

So, good luck, and keep us posted!

 

A good friend of mine wanted one pretty bad so he ordered a rolling kit. This winter will be the third time in as many years that he's had to tear it down and fix something that just wasn't right out of the company. He's young and has a healthy back, but now he knows that its just the kind of bike that has any other purpose except for bar hopping. He drove it from CO to TN last year and the 'shine' has definitely wore off this pig and he's seriously thinking of selling it.

 

I have owned a hardtail by mistake for 5 years now (still own it). It has a 15" X 240 rear tire, a good belt drive (very important if you want them to last) & a 100 ci RevTech. The motor has no issues and is very quick by comparison. I have a stretch only (no up) but with a 32* rake and short 28 1/2" inverted fork.

The rear tire makes a big difference in comfort but I will not be taking it cross country any time soon. You just can not compete with shocks.

 

I forgot to mention in my post that a sprung seat will help a lot. It can kill the looks if not done right as nothing looks as good on a rigid as a slammed seat. But even with the springs under your seat you'll inevitably hit some bumps at high speed that will throw your *** 3-feet into the air. And in those case you'll be just hoping the bike is still there when you come down . . . LOL!