internal wiring
#12
Also, the service manual has a lot of info on the connectors and where the wires go and, since you only have to take the connector off one side of the wire, you can always look at the connector that's still on the other part to see where each wire goes back, if you lose track.
#13
Also, along with shrink tubing (as much as space permits) use some of the OEM type cable wrap (photo below) where the wires exit the bars and enter the neck. You can get it at any good electronics supply store. It's not water proof, so you have to use shrink tube underneath it, but it looks nicer, and adds more protection, than just shrink tube alone.
#14
It's hard on the first one, but once you figure it out, it's a breeze. The little screwdrivers that you use on eyeglasses and small electronics are the best tool I have for connectors. After one or 2, you'll be popping them apart in seconds.
Also, the service manual has a lot of info on the connectors and where the wires go and, since you only have to take the connector off one side of the wire, you can always look at the connector that's still on the other part to see where each wire goes back, if you lose track.
Also, the service manual has a lot of info on the connectors and where the wires go and, since you only have to take the connector off one side of the wire, you can always look at the connector that's still on the other part to see where each wire goes back, if you lose track.
#15
A paperclip is the only tool I've ever seen recommended. They work okay for me but I have run into a few stubborn pins. With those you push the clip straight in till you hear a click and that usually but not always means the pin is released.
Be interested in knowing whether a screwdriver type edge would work better than a blunt edge.
Last edited by jimmers1817; 11-20-2010 at 06:53 AM.
#16
You have better luck with a little screwdriver than a paperclip?
A paperclip is the only tool I've ever seen recommended. They work okay for me but I have run into a few stubborn pins. With those you push the clip straight in till you hear a click and that usually but not always means the pin is released.
Be interested in knowing whether a screwdriver type edge would work better than a blunt edge.
A paperclip is the only tool I've ever seen recommended. They work okay for me but I have run into a few stubborn pins. With those you push the clip straight in till you hear a click and that usually but not always means the pin is released.
Be interested in knowing whether a screwdriver type edge would work better than a blunt edge.
I got them at Radio Shack, I think.
#17
I can see where the stiffer steel of the watch screwdrivers w/handles would work better than the soft paperclips. From your previous post I got the impression that you were having better luck using a bladed screwdriver rather than a flat tip. Thanks for clearing that up.
#18
Here is the link when I had my stock handlebars, and did mine.
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/softa...den-wires.html
I later changed out the bars and put on a set of Burley Knucklebars.
No cons, just a smooth and custom look when done.
X
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/softa...den-wires.html
I later changed out the bars and put on a set of Burley Knucklebars.
No cons, just a smooth and custom look when done.
X
#19
If you are going with a larger or longer bar than stock make sure that you stagger your soldering joints if you have to add on extra wires for length. If you don't, you'll end up with a hugh knot where all the solder joints are. This would make it harder to make the bends through the bars and the holes in them. Take your time, it's a piece of cake.
PH
PH
#20
I'm also putting new bars on my bike and need to extend the wires. How do you guys like the Novello extension kits that come 4" 8" and 12" ?