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View Poll Results: Belt or Chain drive, what are you running with?
Belt drive
142
92.81%
Chain drive
11
7.19%
Voters: 153. You may not vote on this poll

Belt or Chain

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  #31  
Old 11-08-2010, 08:12 PM
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Originally Posted by zukeeper
where are you getting the conversion parts ??
I believe drag sells everything you would need to make the switch. I buy my sprockets from them.
 
  #32  
Old 11-08-2010, 08:17 PM
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Belt drive. No contest.
Chains? Been there done that. No thanks
 
  #33  
Old 11-08-2010, 08:23 PM
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Originally Posted by zukeeper
where are you getting the conversion parts ??
These guys sell a kit.

http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/nightrider_parts.htm

Scroll down to the bottom of the page.
 
  #34  
Old 11-08-2010, 08:36 PM
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Originally Posted by deadman77
Belt drive. No contest.
Chains? Been there done that. No thanks
thats what I thought till I broke one in a **** town half way to a rally. long way from home and your pretty much helpless on fixing it yourself, or even having anybody close by that can fix it.

thanks for the response guys , this is going to be on my mod to do list
 
  #35  
Old 11-08-2010, 08:48 PM
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No thanks, belt drive all the way. Virtually trouble-free for 100k.
 
  #36  
Old 11-08-2010, 08:49 PM
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I race karts. Both of my karts have chains that spin in the road grit a half-inch off the track surface. On some tracks, if I drop the right rear wheel off the edge of the track, the right-rear corner of the kart rides on the sprocket and chain when it drops down to grind on the pavement.

So, after the race, I get pulled into the pits to pry the chain out from where it wrapped itself behind the clutch. When I put on a new chain and sprocket, the sprocket is not round. Chain adjustment is a hit-and-miss game to keep the chain tight enough to not fall off, but loose enough that it doesn't break the crank. The chain is adjusted by sliding the engine back-and-forth in the engine-mount rails, but when the engine is tightened down on the mounts by turning the allen-head screws that last quarter-turn, it changes the chain tension, and I have to loosen the bolts and repeat the process. Even on a good day with no mechanical issues, at the end of the day I still have to spend at least a half-an-hour cleaning all the clutch oil that leaks on the chain and sprays all over everything ? If I ever buy or convert to another centrifigal clutch configuration, I'm buying it with belt-drive sprockets. And I have at least 25 chain-drive sprockets that I'll need to replace to have the correct ratios available.

My drive belt on my bike could be a lot louder, dirtier, uglier, and perhaps even clunkier, and as long as I don't have to mess with it I'll be satisfied.

I mean, really, on a Road Glide Ultra, I can't really see enough of the drive belt to complain about how it looks.
 

Last edited by edilgdaor; 11-08-2010 at 08:55 PM.
  #37  
Old 11-08-2010, 08:56 PM
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Belts on both of mine. Don't miss the chain at all.
The Honda V65 I had before I sold it and got my FXSTC had a shaft drive.
Pucker factor when it would pogo-stick the rear end in high speed corner/shifting.
 
  #38  
Old 11-08-2010, 11:45 PM
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[/quote]Like I said before, I can cut through a belt with my kid's safety scissors... but they won't cut a finger... would you use a final drive made out of fingers ?[/quote]

That logic makes no sense at all.

I changed the belt on my 2000 Screamin Eagle Road Glide at 105,000 miles. Belt still looked ok, but we were starting a 5,000 mile road trip so I felt it was a good idea. This bike has not been babied, besides many heavily loaded road trips, it has had several WFO runs down the drag strip, and from stoplight to stoplight.

How many chains would you go through in 105,000 miles? How many sprockets? How much chain lube? How many hours cleaning the grundge off your rear wheel?

I've been riding for over 40 years, had lots of bikes with chains, but I will never go back.
 
  #39  
Old 11-11-2010, 07:12 PM
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Funny you should ask (not really). I was on a short ride today on a 2010 Heritage with less than 3,000 miles. I made a right hand turn and when I shifted into third gear the belt snapped. I wasn't happy but said oh, well. That is until I talked to my local dealer who explained to me the coast of the belt was $225 and the labor was 9.4 hours @ $90 per hour. That come to something like $1200 including tax.

Like I said not really funny.
 
  #40  
Old 11-11-2010, 07:52 PM
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Originally Posted by AlanM
Funny you should ask (not really). I was on a short ride today on a 2010 Heritage with less than 3,000 miles. I made a right hand turn and when I shifted into third gear the belt snapped. I wasn't happy but said oh, well. That is until I talked to my local dealer who explained to me the coast of the belt was $225 and the labor was 9.4 hours @ $90 per hour. That come to something like $1200 including tax.

Like I said not really funny.
OOOPS !!!! looks like you just blew deadhawgs theory right out of the water..


TO deadhawg,

The logic is that belts are weak and the smallest thing can cut right through them...
It is what it is... we all have our preference and no ones going to be converted ...

and just so you know, you haven't had to lube chains for years ... as far as cleaning the rear wheel... umm I spend more time cleaning the brake dust and road grime off..

The real difference for those of us that have to work on their own bikes is that a chain can be repaired (even though I've never had to) a belt CAN NOT...you're dead in the water...

Just my opinion before all the sensitive rubs start going off ...
 


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