I've used this old timer's trick my indy recommended on cheapo drags to keep them from turing....Paint the inside of the pipes with several coats of high heat or barbeque paint. Then, coat the first 6 inches or so of the pipes at the head with heavy grease. (Be sure to wipe down the outside of the pipes before start up.) Up on start up, the grease will burn and form a coat of insulating carbon that helps keep the pipes from bluing......It's cheap and works pretty good provided your bike is in tune and not running way lean.

 

That's a good method. I've used it in the past myself except without the grease. However, I think it is only doable with drags. Difficult to get the paint thru the baffles.

 

I had the V&H Long Shots installed on my bike, when the tech put it on the Dyno they turned gold immeadatly. They said that it would be covered under warranty and I swapped them out for the Big Shot Staggereds to avoid that problem again. The BSS have the Blu Proof heat shield on them. So far so good!

 

I have never seen a ProPipe that was not blued at the trailing end of the megaphone, @ the leading edge (inner endcap) of the baffle. I have had more than one ProPipe over the years and have seen tons... While, in many cases, blueing can indicate a tuning issue or lean condition.... it is certainly not a rule ~ espically with that pipe.

BlueJob is good for removing it, but it's a never ending battle.

Ceramic coating will ensure that you never see blueing, but my guess is that you would prefer chrome... Also, D&D has a permenent cure for blued pipes...

 

We ceramic coat the inside of the pipes, chrome still shines. This works best on new pipes. The Double D's (Hard Krome) are good pipes, that's what we had on Miss TM's V-Star that Miss Maggie has now.

 

Coating on the inside is a good idea! Does it keep the heat down enough to stop blueing? If so, that 's great!

I meant D&D (http://www.danddexhaust.com/), as they guarantee their pipe never to blue. It's been my experience that they really don;t..... Dunno why.... they just don't...

 

Thanks for all of the great replys. I am not concerned about the header as the heat shields cover up the blued pipes. The part I am concerned about is about midway down the megaphone portion. You can see it in the attached photo (about 10" aft of the 2/1 union). I have a bran new replacement in the box and waiting. I just know that the coating has to be done on new equipment. The folks at V&H suggested the dynokote. I just want to make sure I go with the most effective route. Can the megaphone portion be ceramic coated on the inside?

Thanks,
Jeremy

 

Is their a clear coat ceramic coating you can get? I thought their was I could be wrong.

 

Check in your area for a place that does high performance coatings. I emailed www.calicocoatings.com about coating pipes to help prevent chrome turning blue. Their response was they have a coating and process that was a lot better than any do it yourself coating. The cost was $110. Of course they want my money, but I am sure they have a better coating and process for the job. When I get my new exhaust I will call or stop by their shop for more info.

 

It's interesting this subject came up because JET-HOT which is a company that ceramic coat exhaust systems inside and out is a very good product. The big name drag racers like John Force and many others use this service.

I restored a '65 Ford truck with a performance built 5.8L engine using JET-HOT coated exhaust headers.

The coating is a dull silver color but with the chrome heat shields, it wouldn't look bad.

The real advantage to the JET-HOT ceramic coating is that it improves the exhaust flow. With the ceramic coating inside and out the exhaust doesn't get near as hot.

If I could afford it, I would be doing the stock exhaust pipe on my '03 Ultra Classic. The chrome heat shields would have to be removed.

This is a picture of one of the small block Ford headers that is JET-HOT ceramic coated.