My new-to-me Shovelhead has a dry clutch. It seems to want to be in gear despite the clutch handle being pulled in.

Can anyone give some tips on where to start looking to adjust this.
The clutch is new installed by previous owner.

I am not a mechanic obviously but fairly good at turning a wrench and lots of desire to learn and tinker.

If you could point me in a direction I'd appreciate it.

Thanks.

 

With that info could be a couple of things....cable not adjusted properly, clutch lever not set to proper clearance, clutch pates sticking, clutch push rod not adjusted properly, spring tension not set properly (affects disc), lastly worn clutch hub studs (grooved so plates hang up and do not move smoothly).

Clutch cable should have 1/4" free play before clutch starts to disengage.

Clearance from starter motor to lever should be 1/2"

Clutch push rod should make contact with release bearing, release finger, then back off 1/4 turn and tighten nut.

New clutch is assembled so that the distance from the inner edge of the spring collar to the surface of the outer disc is exactly 1-1/32",

Only way to check the studs is to pull the plates.

Do these adjustments, checks with the engine completely cold (as in sitting all night)

 

Spend the money for an HD shop manual. Best money I ever spent. It does not take long to make a $60 mistake while working on your motorcycle.

 

Adk!!!!

 

Panz,

Thanks for the detailed answer. I really appreciate it.

 

All of the above is good if it's all stock parts , thing being if it's dry most likely we have aftermarket stuff . Please describe what the clutch looks like if you've had the derby cover off ? Belt drive maybe ? details man we can help you .

 

Merlin,

Done. I just ordered one off ebay.


Rick,

I can't wait to ride it all through the adks.

 

Twizted,

I will get some pics up tomorrow.

When I pull the clutch in, there doesn't seem to be an abnormal amount of play.

 

Isn't the stock clutch that didn't run oil in the primary,but dribbled oil on the chain from the oil pump,and then sucked this clutch laden nasty oil back into the motor called a "dry clutch"? I had one of those, and it would pull the bike pretty hard if you cranked in gear with the clutch pulled in...If you cranked it in neural and then put it in gear, it was a lot better. If (when) you get sick of it, Rivera Primo Pro-Clutch is a bolt in replacement that gets rid if all the headaches...but they are proud of it...have to save your lunch money for a while.

http://www.jpcycles.com/product/620-...utm_medium=cse

 

Shovel clutch's are simple to make right from $40 to $230 max depending on owners tastes , let me see what you have & I'll give you options . I have one of those Primo clutchs came with a belt drive system , took the noisy bastard off and it didn't work that well and ate belts . Before the mouths start working in here I've been running belt systems since Karata dropped the first on the market .