I'm hoping to do some riding there myself.

 

So yesterday, I toyed around with the clutch during the remaining half hour of daylight I had.
I took up the slack in the clutch cable, actually more than what is recommended to see if it would change anything.

It did.

Finally first gear was not biting when I held the clutch in. Moved freely.

(Yes, I know this is not the fix. But I just wanted to see if anything would be different.)

So I started the bike up, put in in first and slowly let out the clutch waiting for it to slowly bite.

Instead, as I let it out, I could hear the gears making sort of a grinding sound.
(Not total grinding but gradual.)

I pulled the clutch in, and it was okay. Let it out a little, grinding.

I was thinking maybe the clutch plates were stuck together from sitting for too long with out it being rode on for a year. (remember now, this is a dry clutch not a wet one)

So I let the clutch try to grab. The bike lurched hard and stalled.

Tried it again. Same result.

No matter how softly I let out the clutch, at some point, it would suddenly grab hard and try to move the bike.

I didn't want to break anything and daylight was gone so I figure I'd save it for tomorrow.

So today I will take the cover off and see what it looks like inside.
On the net I saw some blown up drawings of dry clutches. But I do not think I know what I will need to adjust.

Any clues?

Does anyone have an idea if my theory on stuck plates might be correct? If so, do I need to take it apart? Then what?

Thanks again for the help with this.

-JC

 

There is a series of bolts around the clutch hub the distance from outer to inner has to be the same all around,forget over the years what it should be.If clutch is stuck you can take apart and clean or ride it around for a while working the clutch in and out.It will free up.

 

Plates are probably sticking from sitting if there's any oil in the pri. at all . If you've got the stock set up I suggest these 2 items , cures most shovel clutch headaches if your hard parts aren't worn badly meaning fingers on the hub don't have indentations and the holes on the clutch plates themselves are not oblonged . If they are replacement is necessary . Clean everything with some solvent or brake cleaner , scuff the plates to break any shine they have and follow the book . If you use the parts below when adjusting the alum. pressure plate 3 to 4 threads showing on the studs is about right , pull the clutch in and out watching the plate it has to move evenly all way round , 1/2 turn in or out on the nuts where needed to get this and your good to go .
PS ; please lube all your cables at least once yearly you'll be much happier .

http://www.jpcycles.com/product/6100...274461&Nao=140
http://www.jpcycles.com/product/6300...274461&Nao=170


What yrs the bike ? they had different throw out bearing in later yrs that didn't like being run tight , got to have cable slack .
Also if the hub fingers are damaged don't buy anything till you post back there's a slick setup that converts shovels to a diagham style clutch comes with new hub included I've been using on my 88" and bigger builds works real well . New clutch plates & kit under $250 .

 

Okay, just posting a little follow up on the clutch situation...

Thanks to you guys here, it is all fixed and working fine.

I started out by taking off the primary cover.




Immediately I saw that it was tightened more than 4 threads. This might have been one of the reasons it was biting so hard. But perhaps it was also adjusted this way to stop it from slipping. Not sure.

I took the plates out to inspect them. They were caked in stickiness. but came out easily.







I cleaned them up with brake cleaner and replaced them one by one with keeping the faces the same way I took them out. The plates with the notches actually read "Out" on the on the one side so it was easy to put back.



I put everything back together.

It took a little bit of a juggling act to get all the springs back in place correctly. I tightened the notched nuts until there was 4 threads showing.

I tested it out and could spin the clutch plates by hand when depressed. I then put the primary cover back on and tested it out. It worked fine as I rode down the block and back.

As I rolled up to where my tools were I saw a copper washer laying on the ground. I scratched my head trying to figure out where that came from. Spare parts I said.



But seriously, I could not figure where that had come out from. It was dark out by now so figure I may have to take things apart again.

I looked at an exploded view and could not see where it had come out from.



Since it is made of a soft metal like copper I am thinking it is supposed to take the wear of something. I could see it was sort of rough on one side from where it was wearing down.

Unless this was floating around the bottom of the primary cover or fell out of somewhere else when I was wrenching on the right side and removing my pipes earlier.

Anyone have a clue where this copper washer goes?

Thanks.

-JC

 

After running a dry clutch in one of my Shovels, pull the clutch apart and clean the plates,reassemble and adjust as per Harley manual.

 

It goes between the starter jackshaft and the outer primary cover

 

 

Same belt set up I run they work well and those are the cheapest & easiest belt to replace of all the drives out there $45 vs $90 pick up a spare they do pop . You have the nylon retainer in there already only thing I'd get the alum. pressure plate they do help , doesn't warp when hot causing drag and your set pretty good . Ran that setup with a 88" motor for yrs no problems , just you will have to lube the hub bearings by hand at least yearly depending on mileage .
Looking good .

PS . Look up BDL belt drives on line and get the instructions for that drive , DO NOT run that belt tight they don't like it . PM me if you can't find anything I'll send a copy if I can find it .

 

If this is a belt drive primary how about a Tamer system Don't leave home without one !