Oil sludge question
#31
08-12-2010, 12:12 PM
Seasoned HDF Member
OH
Never thought about it, now HO HO HO - H2O too much
Last edited by Jackie Paper; 08-12-2010 at 12:16 PM.
#33
08-12-2010, 05:57 PM
Was reading in the shop manual about how condensation appears in the oil in the bike during the warm up cycle...... but if warmed up all the way, the condensation goes away due to operating temps. IF, bike is not allowed to reach full operating temp, then the condensation mixes with oil and makes sludge which is very bad for moving parts. A big example of this is when people just start their bikes in the driveway because they haven't ridden in awhile and they think they need to let the bike idle awhile then put it back in the garage.
Okay, now I am getting to my question....
I commute to work during the week and the distance is very short. ( it is just 4 miles from door to door) Just how much riding, or miles, need to be done before the bike is us up to full operation temp...and then....how long after that before the condensation is burned off?
The outside temp surely will make a difference in warm up time...I am here in N.CA which means no freezing temps......cold weather in the 40s...summer in the 80s and up.
Thanks in advance
Okay, now I am getting to my question....
I commute to work during the week and the distance is very short. ( it is just 4 miles from door to door) Just how much riding, or miles, need to be done before the bike is us up to full operation temp...and then....how long after that before the condensation is burned off?
The outside temp surely will make a difference in warm up time...I am here in N.CA which means no freezing temps......cold weather in the 40s...summer in the 80s and up.
Thanks in advance
#34
08-12-2010, 08:06 PM
"how condensation appears in the oil in the bike during the warm up cycle...... but if warmed up all the way, the condensation goes away due to operating temps"
I guess my post was to long.
Condensation never goes away.
The combustion process produces water vapor.
The water vapor is not seen after the engine warms up because the higher temperature of the engine prevents the water molecules condensing enough to been seen as with a cold engine.
Condensation/water vapor can not be prevented.
Residual condensation can at best only be kept to a minimum by running the engine hot enough to vaporize the water so the crankcase breather system can evacuate the vapor from the crankcase.
Normal to have higher level of condesation with short rides in cold weather.
Cars today tend to have less visiable condesation because of better crankcase ventilation and they run hotter with 195F thermostats instead of the 160F to 180F.
If you are going to lose sleep over this then change your oil at shorter intervals.
I guess my post was to long.
Condensation never goes away.
The combustion process produces water vapor.
The water vapor is not seen after the engine warms up because the higher temperature of the engine prevents the water molecules condensing enough to been seen as with a cold engine.
Condensation/water vapor can not be prevented.
Residual condensation can at best only be kept to a minimum by running the engine hot enough to vaporize the water so the crankcase breather system can evacuate the vapor from the crankcase.
Normal to have higher level of condesation with short rides in cold weather.
Cars today tend to have less visiable condesation because of better crankcase ventilation and they run hotter with 195F thermostats instead of the 160F to 180F.
If you are going to lose sleep over this then change your oil at shorter intervals.
#35
08-13-2010, 02:37 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Longwood, Florida, Seminole County, United States of America
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Was reading in the shop manual about how condensation appears in the oil in the bike during the warm up cycle...... but if warmed up all the way, the condensation goes away due to operating temps. IF, bike is not allowed to reach full operating temp, then the condensation mixes with oil and makes sludge which is very bad for moving parts. A big example of this is when people just start their bikes in the driveway because they haven't ridden in awhile and they think they need to let the bike idle awhile then put it back in the garage.
Okay, now I am getting to my question....
I commute to work during the week and the distance is very short. ( it is just 4 miles from door to door) Just how much riding, or miles, need to be done before the bike is us up to full operation temp...and then....how long after that before the condensation is burned off?
The outside temp surely will make a difference in warm up time...I am here in N.CA which means no freezing temps......cold weather in the 40s...summer in the 80s and up.
Thanks in advance
Okay, now I am getting to my question....
I commute to work during the week and the distance is very short. ( it is just 4 miles from door to door) Just how much riding, or miles, need to be done before the bike is us up to full operation temp...and then....how long after that before the condensation is burned off?
The outside temp surely will make a difference in warm up time...I am here in N.CA which means no freezing temps......cold weather in the 40s...summer in the 80s and up.
Thanks in advance
4 Miles, Dang? That just ain't right. Just ain't right!
#36
08-13-2010, 02:52 PM
Tons of boaters have gasoline problems today because they rarely use the boats - Scoots would be the same - if you ride often I don`t think it`ll be a problem - it`s the sitting over the winter that`s a problem.
#37
08-13-2010, 03:02 PM
If you are worried about E10 water absorbtion and fuel gelling then treat your gas with blue marine STABIL you can find at West Marine or Walmart. The cost for a large 32 oz.bottle is $19.99 at Walmart and it will treat 360 gallons of gas. Regular red STABIL will help but the blue stuff is best.
Last edited by KBFXDLI; 08-13-2010 at 03:06 PM.
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