Brake bleeding issue?
#1
Brake bleeding issue?
Just swapped out cables and reverse bled the front brakes. Run a whole can of silicone 4 thru it. Not a single bubble in sight.
I have front brakes but the brake lever goes all the way back to the grip. Definitely not the norm. Usual is only about an inch of travel.
Any ideas?. I'm going to try conventional bleeding tomorrow. I also have a vacumn bleeder I may try out.
I have front brakes but the brake lever goes all the way back to the grip. Definitely not the norm. Usual is only about an inch of travel.
Any ideas?. I'm going to try conventional bleeding tomorrow. I also have a vacumn bleeder I may try out.
#5
I had a similar problem that my brake lever was very spongy, even though I bled all the air out of the line. I found a solution on one of the boards that fixed the problem.
I took the right side caliber off the rotor, and took the brake pads out. I used a small piece of 1 X 2 lumber and a c-clamp to keep one side of the brake pistons in while i pumped the brakes forcing the opposite side pistons out a little bit. (Note: Do not force them all the way out.) I took an old toothbrush and thoroughly cleaned the pistons. There was a little bit of brake dust buildup on them that prevent them from operating correctly.
Once those are clean, I pushed them back in, clamped them down and proceeded to force the other side out for cleaning. You don't have to force them out very far to see the buildup on them. Once clean, force them back in, reinstall the brake pads and reinstall on the rotor.
If you have a caliper on the left side, proceed to clean just like the first one. Now my brakes operate without any play at the lever. I don't have ABS brakes, so I don't know if this procedure will work with those or not.
Next time I change my back tire, I will be sure to clean that caliper the same way too.
I took the right side caliber off the rotor, and took the brake pads out. I used a small piece of 1 X 2 lumber and a c-clamp to keep one side of the brake pistons in while i pumped the brakes forcing the opposite side pistons out a little bit. (Note: Do not force them all the way out.) I took an old toothbrush and thoroughly cleaned the pistons. There was a little bit of brake dust buildup on them that prevent them from operating correctly.
Once those are clean, I pushed them back in, clamped them down and proceeded to force the other side out for cleaning. You don't have to force them out very far to see the buildup on them. Once clean, force them back in, reinstall the brake pads and reinstall on the rotor.
If you have a caliper on the left side, proceed to clean just like the first one. Now my brakes operate without any play at the lever. I don't have ABS brakes, so I don't know if this procedure will work with those or not.
Next time I change my back tire, I will be sure to clean that caliper the same way too.
#6
sounds like you still have a tiny air bubble clinging to banjo fitting on your master cylinder and bleeder valve. Try this, it worked for me (read near bottom)
Reverse Bleeder
Reverse Bleeder
Last edited by DZLDR; 07-16-2010 at 10:41 PM.
#7
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Hot Springs Village AR
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sounds like you still have a tiny air bubble clinging to banjo fitting on your master cylinder and bleeder valve. Try this, it worked for me (read near bottom)
Reverse Bleeder
Reverse Bleeder
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#8
Buy a set of speedbleeders. Best money I ever spent on my brakes. I can bleed my front brakes in just a few minutes. http://www.speedbleeder.com/Motorcycle%20Sizes.htm
#9
- Go to parts store and buy cheap oil can
- Use rubber hose that fits bleeder screw and oil can
- Put teflon tape on bleeder screw threads
- Pump brake fluid thru bleeder screw and close.
- Drink beer and feel your now rock hard brake lever