Go look at the bike, if you think it's a keeper have the seller meet you at the local bike shop and pay to have it checked over if you can't trust yourself to do it. If it checks out, meet him at the bank and do the deal.
I've bought and sold several with zero trouble, just take your time and don't fall in love to where you lose your common sense. Then enjoy your ride back home.

 

Only you can let your self get screwed, If you don't what you are looking at or hearing you don't buy it.

I would take time on this board, visit dealer, look at what is out there and attend some of the meets. JUst gather as much info cracking open your wallet.

Good Luck and welcome to the forum.

 

You could stop by and Buy Mine.

 

Carfax does not provide info on motorcycles.

I bought my first bike used off of Craigslist. There were a couple things I did to prevent getting scammed.

1- I made sure to get the VIN and check to see if the bike had been reported stolen.

2- I insisted that the person either have clear title, or that the lien hold be a local bank where we could meet to pay off the loan and have the title transferred to me. DO NOT assume payments, or trust that someone will pay off the lien holder and give you the title at a later date.

3- Make sure the bike will start easily when cold. That means when you show up to check out the bike you should be able to feel the engine and pipes and know the bike is cold, and then see it start.

4- If the owner will let you test ride it great, if not he should be willing to let you ride your current bike with him while he rides the bike on a test ride.

5- Don't take several grand in cash to meet someone alone. Best bet is to use a cashier's check and meet at the bank to finalize the deal.

 

All good things that NR4TW shared.

I've bought and sold my last 3 bikes on Craigslist and haven't had a problem with any of them.

The last guy used a bank check from a credit union. I knew which one he was going to use before-hand, so I called them, asking what their check looked like and what information would be on it (who it would be made out to, what the memo line would say, etc) No problems.

I'd add:

1. Check the fluids. Are they at the right levels, and are they clear or dirty? If low or dirty, the guy doesn't take care of t.

2. Check that engine and frame #s match up.

3. Is the bike dirty or clean?

4. Look down in the cracks and crevices on the engine and tranny. Any evidence of oil leakage that wasn't cleaned up? If so, ask more questions. I had a sporty that had leaked oil from a faulty top end gasket. Got it fixed at the local indy and it was perfect. However, when I cleaned it up before sale, I missed a couple spots of old oil, which the buyer questioned me about. Was able to tell him it was perfect now, and had the receipt to prove the work was done.

5. Check for looseness and play in steering, suspension, etc.

6. Could it pass inspection right now? If not, factor that into the price.

Usually, if the bike is really clean and the fluids look good and it runs from a cold start, I figure I'm not going to get hurt too bad if the price is right. Then I look closer at all the other little details.

Hope this helps.

 

Road trip.

 

And some of them are dealers or salesmen.

Same as with anything else. Go check the vehicle out. Do your research ahead of time, know approximately what its worth (in great, average and poor condition). If they have a clear title in hand that's a good thing.
Phone before you go. You can start getting an idea of the type of person over the phone. Go and see the bike. You can always leave and think about the deal for a few days. If someone else buys it there are more just like it.

For many years before the internet people would run ads in publications hoping to attract buyers from a few hours away. They know that some people don't want to drive that far and go home empty handed.
If you see the bike and it is not as described leave it. Go find a nice restaurant and have a good meal, that way you didn't waste the 4 hr drive.

 

i'm also looking for a new used bike.

I check the VIN and look at the vehicle history if it has been stolen or not. i was looking at a fatboy on ebay and asked for the VIN. and the guy kept saying "it wasn't in an accident what more do you want, i'm not handing my VIN out to anyone". i said "i'm not just anyone i'm someone interested in your bike i just need to run a vehicle history report". he replied very upset and telling me "i'm not selling you anything, you're playing games, go find another bike"...

THAT guy i stay away from... there's a reason he won't give me the VIN, the bike is probably a theft recovery or something else.

another guy is selling his bike and i get to his house and it looks like a garbage dump. if you keep your house such a mess chances are you don't take care of anything else either.

go with your gut too, your gut will tell you to run and it's almost always right.

 

Awesome advice! Thanks a ton! Now the question is how to find a "fair" value to both me and the seller. Looking at a few 2008 RKC's all with less than 8000 miles. Which book value is most accurate with todays economy? For example KBB trade in is $11750 (+$405 for abs) KBB retail is $15730 (+$600 for abs) and NADA has it listed as low retail $13545 and average retail $14700.

Where the hell does a used bike from a private seller fall? I see lots of RKC's for sale at $16K and above and they're all still for sale. Even those that are $15K are still "for sale". It appears only those around $13-14K are actually selling.

 

If somebody want to give me a check (certidied or not) for a car or bike, it is fine with me but seller will get a car after I cash it.
Seller has to be a moron to accept any kind of check.