PLEASE HELP with Dual Disk Brake iSSUE???
#12
12-11-2010, 08:58 PM
good to hear. i know this is an older thread, but im going to post this info, just in case someones looking to bleed their brakes.
dual disk are always a **** to bleed. what i usually do is ( on a new system that is) is fill the master all the way up, and pull the never back and tape it. that opens the master up. crack the bleeders and let it gravity feed fluid thru. always best to use the old jar with clean fluid and the hose trick ( put a clear hose on the bleeder nipple, and put the end in the jar half full of brake fluid so yyou dont get air sucking back up in the lines). after your no longer getting air in the jar, close the bleeders , fill the master and give it two or three squeezes. while someones holding the lever down, crack the bleeders one at a time. problem you get with the dual disk setup is sometimes as you bleed one side, the air gets forced over to the other, or an air bubble gets trapped right at the junction. if after a couple of bleeder cracks the brakes dont get hard for ya, youll need to have someone on both sides to crack the bleeders at the same time. this will force any bubbles trapped at the junction out and down one side or the other. make damn sure that whomevers cracking the bleeders does NOT LET GO OF THE LEVER UNTIL THE BLEEDERS CLOSED!...if they do, you can get air back in the lines.....when your done ( or think your done) top the fluid up and let the system sit for a few, then go back and try the brakes. if there is still air in the line, it will have time for the pressure to bleed off and youll know as soon as you squeeze the lever. if its nice and hard, your all good. if it is soft, rebleed the system.
also always remember to only use DOT3-5 FLUID FROM A sealed container.brake fluid is a desiccant, and will absorb moisture, which will totally F*CK yur brake system up!....NO JOKE, USE FLUID FROM A NEW SEALED CONTAINER ONLY AND THROW THE REMAINDER AWAY! I had a bro who didnt follow that advise and within 2 months of putting a new master on, he had to replace it due to rust from using damp fluid.
dual disk are always a **** to bleed. what i usually do is ( on a new system that is) is fill the master all the way up, and pull the never back and tape it. that opens the master up. crack the bleeders and let it gravity feed fluid thru. always best to use the old jar with clean fluid and the hose trick ( put a clear hose on the bleeder nipple, and put the end in the jar half full of brake fluid so yyou dont get air sucking back up in the lines). after your no longer getting air in the jar, close the bleeders , fill the master and give it two or three squeezes. while someones holding the lever down, crack the bleeders one at a time. problem you get with the dual disk setup is sometimes as you bleed one side, the air gets forced over to the other, or an air bubble gets trapped right at the junction. if after a couple of bleeder cracks the brakes dont get hard for ya, youll need to have someone on both sides to crack the bleeders at the same time. this will force any bubbles trapped at the junction out and down one side or the other. make damn sure that whomevers cracking the bleeders does NOT LET GO OF THE LEVER UNTIL THE BLEEDERS CLOSED!...if they do, you can get air back in the lines.....when your done ( or think your done) top the fluid up and let the system sit for a few, then go back and try the brakes. if there is still air in the line, it will have time for the pressure to bleed off and youll know as soon as you squeeze the lever. if its nice and hard, your all good. if it is soft, rebleed the system.
also always remember to only use DOT3-5 FLUID FROM A sealed container.brake fluid is a desiccant, and will absorb moisture, which will totally F*CK yur brake system up!....NO JOKE, USE FLUID FROM A NEW SEALED CONTAINER ONLY AND THROW THE REMAINDER AWAY! I had a bro who didnt follow that advise and within 2 months of putting a new master on, he had to replace it due to rust from using damp fluid.
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