My sales guy at the dealership says to ride the bike like I normally would during break in period and to just make sure I dont lug it. However the manual says to keep rpms at 3000 for first 50 miles then 3500 thereafter.
Is this accurate for normal break in period and how long does break in period last? I know I have to take back at 1000 miles, which I think would end break in period.

Now coming from a solid mount motorcycle, I never had an rpm gauge. I would go more so by feel. The SG being a rubber mounted motor makes riding almost a totally new experience, so I can t go by feel so much anymore.
Am I correct in understanding that as long as Im constantly around 3k rpms I should be pretty much safe and not lugging it? What rpm would be considered lugging?
I hate to ask such a basic questions but I want to make sure I get the most out of that motor and not fudge it all up straight from the get go.
I appreciate any feedback on this.

 

I don't rod the pi$$ out of 'em, but I don't baby 'em either.

 

You'll get all sorts of conflicting advice on this....mine is use the whole 1000 miles and build the revs gradually from around 5-600miles - Yes, don't let the engine lug and you can exceed the recommended revs on the overun. Remember when the 'thrash-it-out-of-the-crate' brigade talk about bedding the rings and bores in, you also have bearings, and journals to consider in the motor and gearbox and these don't respond well to such initial treatment...You can't harm the engine by running it in progressively.

 

not to sound like a wiseass, but did you ever consider reading the manual? it tells you how MOCO says to do a break-in.

I don't think I'd listen to a salesman or take advice from a bunch of on-line *******.

 

I agree, dont listen to a sales dude! It is better to have your rpm's up & down but not steady during break in. If your cruising on the highway, your bike is up to speed & as it rolls along it runs lean. If your going through the gears your running with more fuel to air ratio which is better for break in.
every bike is different for lugging. Mine responds good from 2300 rpm & up.
Ask a mechanic at the dealer or just ride it normally until it gets some miles.

 

Whats lugging you ask?

Youll feel it and know it when it happens....

Example...trying to take off from a stop in second gear...Thats what lugging sounds and feel like.

 

That statement "ride like you normally do" cracks me up. How does the salesman know how you ride? And what is normal? Some guys ride like they stole it, some baby theirs, so to them that's normal. But that is good advice from hatchetman to vary your rpms. I have also read heard from both bike and car people that hard decel will do a lot to seat the rings well.

 

Your owner's manual (the one that comes with the bike) will tell you exactly how to break it in. And that's the way to do it to keep your warranty intact. It probably says to keep it below 60mph for the first 50 miles and then below 70 for the next thousand, or something like that, and to vary the rpm, never riding too long at a steady speed. You also need to keep the rpm above probably 2000, so as not to come even close to lugging it.

 

I'm glad I read this thread because I'm picking up my new bike tonight and now I won't have to take the time to read the owners manual before heading home with it.
It makes perfect sense to vary speed/revs and not lug it so thanks for all the great input folks.

 

For those who advocate following the manual to tee for warranty concerns I would pose the following question.......

Q.- If one adds cams, breather, pipes, and a SERT before taking delivery, all of which would be covered under said warranty, how does the installing dealer go about tuning all of these added components???

A.- By doing several full dyno pulls which most certainly greatly exceed the RPM guidelines as published in the manual.