Ok, ya’ll, what am I looking at with this? I’m guessing that when I replaced my tire at 10,000 miles that maybe I got the axle on too tight? It’s coming up on 14,500 now before this has happened.

What can I expect that I’m going to need to replace? How much? I guess there is no point in trying to get it cone under warrantee if it’s on me for getting the axle too tight…..is that what this is though?

I’ve been doing my own service, but I don’t see anything regarding the rear wheel bearings on the schedule.

Thanks for your help!

 

Looks like a very serious failure. You would have had to really over tightened the axle to do this. Do you have a service manual? What about a torque wrench? Axle nuts need to be set to a specific torque. The bearings are sealed unites and don't require regular servicing. If you take the wheel to a service center, 1hr labor + bearings(about $30 each).

 

Wouldn't hurt to let the dealer have a look. It's not the first wheel bearing to fail.

 

Well, no, I don’t have a torque wrench or else I wouldn’t have over tightened it. Seems strange that it took 4,500 miles to fail from over tightening it though, doesn’t it?

I felt the rear shift sideways and make noise twice before I got it home and I couldn’t find what the deal was. I assumed it might be that inner primary bearing that I hear about on here on earlier models. I rode down the street and didn’t feel anything and then decided to take it to get my hair cut just a couple miles down the road to see if there was indeed something wrong and it barely made it back to the house. I just looked it up it was a six mile round trip before it got to this condition.

What is the torque supposed to be on a Dyna rear axle anyway? I’ll buy a torque wrench this time…..I sure don’t want that to ever happen again.

 

I am not sure about the dyna but my Softail Springer Classic the torque for my axle nut is 60-65 ft-lbs to me that is not that much considering that torque for the lock nuts for my rocker bearings is 95-100 ft-lbs. Most lug nuts on cars are around 95-100 ft-lbs which is wrenching on it pretty good. If you are servicing your own ride then you need to invest in a ft-lbs torque wrench, and in-lbs torque wrench, and a service manual. Especially when working on axles and where the rubber meets the road. You should have also coated the axle lightly with anti-seize before re-installing. At least that is what my service manual stated for my front axle when I did my rocker bearings. You are messing with things that if not torqued correctly could mean catistrophic failure and possibly death. I am all about people servicing their own bikes but you have to do is correctly, to specification, and by the service manual. Good luck. Rant over.

 

This type of failure on a sealed bearing is due to seal failure causing the lubricant loss which leads to high heat and a mess! Overtightening the axle may have damaged the seal but they aren't that strong so a careless tap in the wrong place could cause it too. If the inner race spun you'll want to replace your axle, if the outer race spun, your wheel will need some work maybe bored and a bushing.

 

Pull the wheel and take it to an Indy, unless you have the wheel bearing tool. It will cost you about $90, including the cost of the wheel bearings.

 

Photos posted - response not relevant.

 

I had posted in a previous thread that a mech. friend at the Stealer said this is not to uncommon an occurrence. He blamed it on lack of initial grease, or pressure washing the seal of said bearing. He showed me one bearing race he just replaced on a Road King with less than ten thousand miles on it. burnt and blown up!

So theirs a good chance it wasn't your over torquing that caused it.
I swear I think I feel my front ones growling a little on occasion. I think I'm going to check them out real soon.

 

+1 I agree.