Id like to get some opinions on this dyno run if possible?
Bike is a 2007 FXDC with stage I ac, big radius pipes 2x2, and 96ci motor stock and SEST

 

Definitely not a good tune.Your numbers are down,& the bike falls on its face in the later rpm range.Find a better tuner to tune your bike,they don't know what they are doing!!!

 

It's HD 29877-06:

Bring your Twin Cam Touring motorcycle up to the same displacement and power output as the CVO Screamin' EagleŽ models - a whopping 1690cc. This 50-state street legal kit combines all the proven components of the Screamin' EagleŽ models - the 4-3/8" stroker flywheel assembly, 3-7/8" big-bore cast pistons, big bore cylinders, SE-253 camshafts, cylinder heads, air cleaner assembly and cover insert. Cam spacer kit P/N 25938-00 is recommended. This kit contains an assortment of 5 different spacers to achieve proper sprocket alignment. Individual spacers can be purchased separately. The black highlighted Screamin' EagleŽ 103 cylinder heads and cast piston combination offer a 9:1 compression ratio for easy starting. The cylinder heads also prominently feature the "Screamin' EagleŽ 103" script. Kit includes all required gaskets (except primary cover) and hardware to complete the installation. Street legal when used with stock mufflers on '03 models.
Black
Fits '06 EFI Touring models. Kit includes replacement catalyst muffler. Separate purchase of end caps is required. Installation requires ECM Calibration (not included).

 

Why are you hijacking his post? Having stated that, your HP/TQ #s are biased an approx plus 5% because they are using a STD correction factor instead of the industry accepted SAE correction and your A/F ratio is to lean until high in the RPM range. Should be approx 12.8-13.2 depending what makes the most power without detonation.

 

Quote: Man you guys certainly rained on my parade...but I'm grateful for it. Sorry dude, not trying to bring you down. I'ts just that you should definetly be getting better numbers than that for a 103" motor. Good luck!

 

He still can. So even though the parade got a little rain, he had to good news with it (that he's got more power coming to him). Win/win!

 

Ohioskully, I pretty much had that same set-up, big radius 2-2, heavy breather and sert and looking at my stage-1 dyno sheet, I put out 76hp & 91tq. And mine was done in SAE. If you want I could could shoot you a copy to compare?

 

Thats hard to believe that you have heads & cams with that build and your only getting them #'s! I think you need to find a new tuner! I'm not trying to be an a$$, but something is seriously wrong.

 

First sorry for hijacking the thread but hey people were talking so i jumped in i put my sheet up while back and didn't get much response. Thanks Red.

I just like the op am trying to get this all figured out and see what i need to do. It runs good and has lot of get up and go but also seems to be running hotter than it used to id assume that is where i have the little jump in AFR at the beginning leaning things out i don't know iam great mechanically and industrially but when it comes to ECM's and tuners and all that i don't know jack and can admit it.

 

There is a big disconnect going on here. When you show a HP/TQ graph, this ONLY relates to wide open throttle tuning and performance, absolutley NO relationship to starting, idle, warm-up and cruising. If you go to a tuner and state that you want a performance tune (the easy tune), you will usually get ONLY a WOT tune and graph. Your bike should run great at WOT but could run poorly at part throttle, etc, thus many complaints about drivability. However, if you want a full tune (definition varies from shop to shop), you should get the works, meaning start-up, warm-up, streetability and wide open throttle tuning, this is usually a full day of tuning.

Also, do not get tied up with peak TQ and HP numbers. Let's say that someone comes to a dyno tuner and they run an initial baseline dyno test. The baseline graph indicates 90 peak HP at 5200 RPM. Then the later mods/tuning to the bike increase the HP by 5 HP at 4700 RPM and at 5700 RPM but DO NOT change the power at its peak HP at 5200 RPM. This bike is now much quicker then if this 5 HP only increased at its peak 5200 RPM but in the eyes of the general public, he is a lousy turner. It is the power under the curve, how much you can average rather then how much you can peak that is more important. This tuner is a great tuner in the eyes of a competitor and his tuner peers. An overlay of the before and after HP curve tells it all. Don't get tangled up in TQ vs HP because they are mathematically related, meaning that, if you increase one or the other at a given RPM they both will increase. If I look at only the HP curve, that tells me the most of what I need to know about any engine, especially when to shift for peak performance.