Synthetic or Not...that is the question
#34
04-06-2010, 06:22 AM
I will tell you that do alot of traffic rides. I will ride from Baltimore into Wash DC. I tell you to use Syn oil. I have try Dino oil on a couple rides into the city and after one good ride in traffic the dino is trashed. If you want to change oil every week use Dino. If you like oil to last go with Syn oils. I will do the Red line oil for trans with the red color. It can tell about any early problems with trans bearings. Just my .02
#35
04-06-2010, 06:29 AM
Of course there are two different sides to the fence,always will be.You have to be the one to decide what's best for you.For me with a machinist background, that decision was easy over 30 yrs ago, once I saw the results of running synthetics.First thing is cooler operation,much less wear on internal engine parts,extended oil change intervals,(Saving money).80% of engine wear occurs in the first few seconds after startup,where synthetics really shine.Your choice good luck.
#36
10-11-2011, 05:30 PM
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our writer Pete thinks he has the answer to the synthetic vs fossil debate...
https://www.hdforums.com/articles/in...marketnews.php
https://www.hdforums.com/articles/in...marketnews.php
#37
10-11-2011, 05:47 PM
our writer Pete thinks he has the answer to the synthetic vs fossil debate...
https://www.hdforums.com/articles/in...marketnews.php
https://www.hdforums.com/articles/in...marketnews.php
In my opinion, the only exception is if your oil runs hotter than 250 degrees F. Then Dino will break down faster than the syn. But my argument is, why the hell are you running so hot. You should be purchasing an external oil cooler if you're running so hot.
But anyway, it's really entertaining reading things like "Synthetic makes your engine run cooler" or "synthetic sticks to the bearings and lubricates way better than dino" or here's a good one "you can go 5 or 10 thousand miles before you have to change your oil". The thing is, maybe the oil hasn't broken down, maybe it still has some life, but it will be dirty. It will be just as dirty as the dino oil and you will get excessive wear on the engine running dirty oil.
I also agree it's marketing hype by HD. If the engine truly needed to be "better" lubricated because dino wasn't good enough then they would require synthetic, not just say it's ok, or safe to use.
It's a scam. Unless you're running high performance race engines there is no need for the extra expense.
Do you think it would make a difference in you lawnmower? Would it make a difference on a squeaky door hinge?
#38
10-11-2011, 06:00 PM
Seasoned HDF Member
I get my 20w50 or 15w50 auto style from NAPA for about $4 a quart for my engine, formula + for the tranny and Walmart full syn 75w140 for the tranny...
The biggest thing wether you chose syn or dino... just change it and you will be fine....HD just recommends a weight and change intervals....Look at people using dino oil in cars that get 500000 miles or more...Don't drink the kool aid.....
The biggest thing wether you chose syn or dino... just change it and you will be fine....HD just recommends a weight and change intervals....Look at people using dino oil in cars that get 500000 miles or more...Don't drink the kool aid.....
#39
10-11-2011, 06:04 PM
I ran amsoil for a while but it didn't run one degree cooler than dino so I switched back to dino. I didn't notice any advantage running syn. I change my oil like clockwork so Dino is fine for me.
#40
10-11-2011, 07:46 PM
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The whole "Bearing Skate" myth is left over from the old days when Harley didn't sell a synthetic oil. Synthetic oil provides better cooling, is slower in breaking down, and has additive packages that surround carbon, and other impurities (thereby keeping them away from engine components on the way back to the filter). I also find it hard to believe the older bike wouldn't perform as well with synthetic oil.
I work in the refinery of a borax mine in the middle of the Mojave desert. We have done extensive testing in our reliability department on speed reducers (Gear Boxes) operating in a desert environment 24 hours a day...7 days a week. The plant is almost 100 years old, and some of our equipment is 30 years old or better. Almost every time synthetic turns out to be the answer. We do have a few places where backstops have to engage to prevent a conveyor from rolling backwards when the belt is turned off. In these situations we have to be careful about using a synthetic that has an anti-friction package as it can stop the backstop from engaging. So...in rare instances in industry friction modifiers can cause issues with equipment. As far as the "bearing skate"....when we have an equipment failure there is a tap root analysis performed to determine why...never has it been an issue with bearing skate. I even asked a trebologist (oil scientist) about bearing skate, and was told it was a farce harley invented...when they didn't succeed in boosting oil sales...they decided to start selling synthetic themselves. Now the claim made by them is that their synthetic is specially engineered for "harley engines"....as if they are made out of some special "unicorn horn" that other engines aren't made of.
My 2 cents is for you to go to several new car dealerships and raise the hood on a porche, corvette, turbo Cadillac, and many other high performance engines. Chances are you'll see one thing in common with the big money/high performance engines....they will all say use only mobil1 on the oil filler cap.
-clutch-
P.S. No matter if it's synthetic, or conventional oil you decide upon...use the same brand at every oil change. Switching back and forth between brands can cause issues with your engine sludging up....and especially on an air cooled motor....that's a bad thing.
I work in the refinery of a borax mine in the middle of the Mojave desert. We have done extensive testing in our reliability department on speed reducers (Gear Boxes) operating in a desert environment 24 hours a day...7 days a week. The plant is almost 100 years old, and some of our equipment is 30 years old or better. Almost every time synthetic turns out to be the answer. We do have a few places where backstops have to engage to prevent a conveyor from rolling backwards when the belt is turned off. In these situations we have to be careful about using a synthetic that has an anti-friction package as it can stop the backstop from engaging. So...in rare instances in industry friction modifiers can cause issues with equipment. As far as the "bearing skate"....when we have an equipment failure there is a tap root analysis performed to determine why...never has it been an issue with bearing skate. I even asked a trebologist (oil scientist) about bearing skate, and was told it was a farce harley invented...when they didn't succeed in boosting oil sales...they decided to start selling synthetic themselves. Now the claim made by them is that their synthetic is specially engineered for "harley engines"....as if they are made out of some special "unicorn horn" that other engines aren't made of.
My 2 cents is for you to go to several new car dealerships and raise the hood on a porche, corvette, turbo Cadillac, and many other high performance engines. Chances are you'll see one thing in common with the big money/high performance engines....they will all say use only mobil1 on the oil filler cap.
-clutch-
P.S. No matter if it's synthetic, or conventional oil you decide upon...use the same brand at every oil change. Switching back and forth between brands can cause issues with your engine sludging up....and especially on an air cooled motor....that's a bad thing.
Many many riders with over a 100k on the clock who have only ever ran dino.