Synthetic or Not...that is the question
#11
With oils being what they are now days you can't go wrong with either oil. Just do your home work and run a high quality oil. I have heard of a lot of old school bikers running Kendal 20/50 for the life of their bikes with no problems. I have tried about every major oil out there and like Redline 20/60, Valvoline 50 wt racing. I like Mobil 1 15/50 or 20/50 but it tends to make a little more noise in the valve train.
#12
The whole "Bearing Skate" myth is left over from the old days when Harley didn't sell a synthetic oil. Synthetic oil provides better cooling, is slower in breaking down, and has additive packages that surround carbon, and other impurities (thereby keeping them away from engine components on the way back to the filter). I also find it hard to believe the older bike wouldn't perform as well with synthetic oil.
I work in the refinery of a borax mine in the middle of the Mojave desert. We have done extensive testing in our reliability department on speed reducers (Gear Boxes) operating in a desert environment 24 hours a day...7 days a week. The plant is almost 100 years old, and some of our equipment is 30 years old or better. Almost every time synthetic turns out to be the answer. We do have a few places where backstops have to engage to prevent a conveyor from rolling backwards when the belt is turned off. In these situations we have to be careful about using a synthetic that has an anti-friction package as it can stop the backstop from engaging. So...in rare instances in industry friction modifiers can cause issues with equipment. As far as the "bearing skate"....when we have an equipment failure there is a tap root analysis performed to determine why...never has it been an issue with bearing skate. I even asked a trebologist (oil scientist) about bearing skate, and was told it was a farce harley invented...when they didn't succeed in boosting oil sales...they decided to start selling synthetic themselves. Now the claim made by them is that their synthetic is specially engineered for "harley engines"....as if they are made out of some special "unicorn horn" that other engines aren't made of.
My 2 cents is for you to go to several new car dealerships and raise the hood on a porche, corvette, turbo Cadillac, and many other high performance engines. Chances are you'll see one thing in common with the big money/high performance engines....they will all say use only mobil1 on the oil filler cap.
-clutch-
P.S. No matter if it's synthetic, or conventional oil you decide upon...use the same brand at every oil change. Switching back and forth between brands can cause issues with your engine sludging up....and especially on an air cooled motor....that's a bad thing.
I work in the refinery of a borax mine in the middle of the Mojave desert. We have done extensive testing in our reliability department on speed reducers (Gear Boxes) operating in a desert environment 24 hours a day...7 days a week. The plant is almost 100 years old, and some of our equipment is 30 years old or better. Almost every time synthetic turns out to be the answer. We do have a few places where backstops have to engage to prevent a conveyor from rolling backwards when the belt is turned off. In these situations we have to be careful about using a synthetic that has an anti-friction package as it can stop the backstop from engaging. So...in rare instances in industry friction modifiers can cause issues with equipment. As far as the "bearing skate"....when we have an equipment failure there is a tap root analysis performed to determine why...never has it been an issue with bearing skate. I even asked a trebologist (oil scientist) about bearing skate, and was told it was a farce harley invented...when they didn't succeed in boosting oil sales...they decided to start selling synthetic themselves. Now the claim made by them is that their synthetic is specially engineered for "harley engines"....as if they are made out of some special "unicorn horn" that other engines aren't made of.
My 2 cents is for you to go to several new car dealerships and raise the hood on a porche, corvette, turbo Cadillac, and many other high performance engines. Chances are you'll see one thing in common with the big money/high performance engines....they will all say use only mobil1 on the oil filler cap.
-clutch-
P.S. No matter if it's synthetic, or conventional oil you decide upon...use the same brand at every oil change. Switching back and forth between brands can cause issues with your engine sludging up....and especially on an air cooled motor....that's a bad thing.
#16
Switched from the expensive Red-Line synthetic to Valvoline Dura-Blend...The differences are slight...The Dura-Blend is less costly and:
1.) heats up quicker
2.) cools down quicker
The advantage is less money spent..Pick one oil of your choice and stick with it and you will not have to worry about any oil related damage so long as you change the oil/filter on regular intervals.
1.) heats up quicker
2.) cools down quicker
The advantage is less money spent..Pick one oil of your choice and stick with it and you will not have to worry about any oil related damage so long as you change the oil/filter on regular intervals.
#17
Sounds about 50/50 to me....."gotta get er done"...been usin dino for 10 years, time for a change. Off to the store to spend my kids inheritence..
Thx to all who took the time
Thx to all who took the time
#18
oil vs oil
Do some research and you will see that synthetic tests far better in every test they can think of.I am sure the big auto companys did a lot of researching before they put the high dollar stuff in the super performance cars.I put Amsoil in my 2008 Super Glide and it seems to run cooler. I'm thinking of putting it in my truck. Dave the troll
#20
I use syn for one reason only, it handles hi temps better than dino oil and thus I worry less when I'm stuck in traffic on a 98 degree day. Don't use syn in any other vehicle I own. Mobile Vtwin 20-50 is my brand of choice. Wally World at $9 a qt..