break in periods
#1
break in periods
now heres a topic that could very well be as entertainign as chaps, and 1% threads
what are the best break in period methods?
since i did a whole new top end and this is my first motorcycle break in, figured i would ask my mc think tank. now i got the heat cycling bit and will be sticking to that
run for 30 seconds cool, run for another 30 seconds cool, repeat till you get 5 minutes running actual running time in.
but after that ? do i go slow and pamper it like a fresh out of highschool virgin, or do i slam it like a 40 year old MILF couger on a saturday night??
obviously an oil change after the first 100 miles then again at 500 miles and again at 1000 miles from which i can go into normal oil change scheduale.
lets here some good input i need soem entertainment
what are the best break in period methods?
since i did a whole new top end and this is my first motorcycle break in, figured i would ask my mc think tank. now i got the heat cycling bit and will be sticking to that
run for 30 seconds cool, run for another 30 seconds cool, repeat till you get 5 minutes running actual running time in.
but after that ? do i go slow and pamper it like a fresh out of highschool virgin, or do i slam it like a 40 year old MILF couger on a saturday night??
obviously an oil change after the first 100 miles then again at 500 miles and again at 1000 miles from which i can go into normal oil change scheduale.
lets here some good input i need soem entertainment
#4
There a lot of opinions on this subject and most are correct.
I assume the crank and bearings are original so that leaves the issue of seating the rings CORRECTLY. Your short cycle method can very well create carbon build up, condensation in your oil and other issues thjat will haunt you..
Here's my method.
10w40 motor oil (initially)
Start bike, let it run the first time for 5 minutes and shut down.
If your like me, I would drain the oil and replace at this point.
Now the fun part, seating the rings.
Go out on a nice evening (60 to 70 degrees if possible). Ride the bike until it heats up, usally 20 minutes or so. Now, while in FORTH (or third depending on gearing, just be over 2000 rpm to start) gear at 40 mph, take the bike up to 60mph at 1/2 to 2/3 throttle, NOT full throttle YET! Allow the bike to slow up to 40 using the engine only to brake. You want to repeat this 10 times juicing it a bit harded each time. If done correctly the rings should be seated!!! This can be verified with a compression tester before and after your ride. The harder you brake it in, the better it will run. But be careful not to over heat the engine.
You have your oil change intervals correct except I would replace the filter and oil after the brake in run.
On the other hand you can use the factory method except a factor engine has been pre-run under load, yours hasnt. You are trying to duplicate the factory method for ring seating.
You can also find a good tuner that can seat your rings on a dyno as well.
Do NOT use synthetic or blended oil until you put the first 1000 miles or so or until you verified via compression test that the rings are seated.
Like you, I am gettng ready to fire up my winter project. No matter how many engines you have overhauled, that first push of the button will be nerve racking! But once you see that it is right, you will be swollen with pride.
I hope this helps and I am sure it will turn out right.
This article should help you out somewhat.
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
Good luck
I assume the crank and bearings are original so that leaves the issue of seating the rings CORRECTLY. Your short cycle method can very well create carbon build up, condensation in your oil and other issues thjat will haunt you..
Here's my method.
10w40 motor oil (initially)
Start bike, let it run the first time for 5 minutes and shut down.
If your like me, I would drain the oil and replace at this point.
Now the fun part, seating the rings.
Go out on a nice evening (60 to 70 degrees if possible). Ride the bike until it heats up, usally 20 minutes or so. Now, while in FORTH (or third depending on gearing, just be over 2000 rpm to start) gear at 40 mph, take the bike up to 60mph at 1/2 to 2/3 throttle, NOT full throttle YET! Allow the bike to slow up to 40 using the engine only to brake. You want to repeat this 10 times juicing it a bit harded each time. If done correctly the rings should be seated!!! This can be verified with a compression tester before and after your ride. The harder you brake it in, the better it will run. But be careful not to over heat the engine.
You have your oil change intervals correct except I would replace the filter and oil after the brake in run.
On the other hand you can use the factory method except a factor engine has been pre-run under load, yours hasnt. You are trying to duplicate the factory method for ring seating.
You can also find a good tuner that can seat your rings on a dyno as well.
Do NOT use synthetic or blended oil until you put the first 1000 miles or so or until you verified via compression test that the rings are seated.
Like you, I am gettng ready to fire up my winter project. No matter how many engines you have overhauled, that first push of the button will be nerve racking! But once you see that it is right, you will be swollen with pride.
I hope this helps and I am sure it will turn out right.
This article should help you out somewhat.
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
Good luck
Last edited by HogTuner; 02-24-2010 at 05:14 AM.
#6
There a lot of opinions on this subject and most are correct.
I assume the crank and bearings are original so that leaves the issue of seating the rings CORRECTLY. Your short cycle method can very well create carbon build up, condensation in your oil and other issues thjat will haunt you..
Here's my method.
10w40 motor oil (initially)
Start bike, let it run the first time for 5 minutes and shut down.
If your like me, I would drain the oil and replace at this point.
Now the fun part, seating the rings.
Go out on a nice evening (60 to 70 degrees if possible). Ride the bike until it heats up, usally 20 minutes or so. Now, while in FORTH (or third depending on gearing, just be over 2000 rpm to start) gear at 40 mph, take the bike up to 60mph at 1/2 to 2/3 throttle, NOT full throttle YET! Allow the bike to slow up to 40 using the engine only to brake. You want to repeat this 10 times juicing it a bit harded each time. If done correctly the rings should be seated!!! This can be verified with a compression tester before and after your ride. The harder you brake it in, the better it will run. But be careful not to over heat the engine.
You have your oil change intervals correct except I would replace the filter and oil after the brake in run.
On the other hand you can use the factory method except a factor engine has been pre-run under load, yours hasnt. You are trying to duplicate the factory method for ring seating.
You can also find a good tuner that can seat your rings on a dyno as well.
Do NOT use synthetic or blended oil until you put the first 1000 miles or so or until you verified via compression test that the rings are seated.
Like you, I am gettng ready to fire up my winter project. No matter how many engines you have overhauled, that first push of the button will be nerve racking! But once you see that it is right, you will be swollen with pride.
I hope this helps and I am sure it will turn out right.
This article should help you out somewhat.
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
Good luck
I assume the crank and bearings are original so that leaves the issue of seating the rings CORRECTLY. Your short cycle method can very well create carbon build up, condensation in your oil and other issues thjat will haunt you..
Here's my method.
10w40 motor oil (initially)
Start bike, let it run the first time for 5 minutes and shut down.
If your like me, I would drain the oil and replace at this point.
Now the fun part, seating the rings.
Go out on a nice evening (60 to 70 degrees if possible). Ride the bike until it heats up, usally 20 minutes or so. Now, while in FORTH (or third depending on gearing, just be over 2000 rpm to start) gear at 40 mph, take the bike up to 60mph at 1/2 to 2/3 throttle, NOT full throttle YET! Allow the bike to slow up to 40 using the engine only to brake. You want to repeat this 10 times juicing it a bit harded each time. If done correctly the rings should be seated!!! This can be verified with a compression tester before and after your ride. The harder you brake it in, the better it will run. But be careful not to over heat the engine.
You have your oil change intervals correct except I would replace the filter and oil after the brake in run.
On the other hand you can use the factory method except a factor engine has been pre-run under load, yours hasnt. You are trying to duplicate the factory method for ring seating.
You can also find a good tuner that can seat your rings on a dyno as well.
Do NOT use synthetic or blended oil until you put the first 1000 miles or so or until you verified via compression test that the rings are seated.
Like you, I am gettng ready to fire up my winter project. No matter how many engines you have overhauled, that first push of the button will be nerve racking! But once you see that it is right, you will be swollen with pride.
I hope this helps and I am sure it will turn out right.
This article should help you out somewhat.
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
Good luck
#7
Glad to see that you got that ironhead put back together. I would repost this question down in the ironhead section of the forum and see what everybody else is doing.
As far as oil goes, I'm running straight 60 wt in mine. 20/50 seems a little light.
As far as oil goes, I'm running straight 60 wt in mine. 20/50 seems a little light.
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#9
I don't get the no synthetic oil for 1k miles thing. Harley sends the bikes from the factory with synthetic in them. apparently it doesn't matter. As a motor runs and you put miles on it, it can't help but wear in. And with millions of bikes in the world that have been broken in every which way you can imagine, it seems the owners are the only part which need to be lulled into thinking there's a proper and improper way to do it. I've ridden with guys that ride aggressive and ones that ride like old ladys, and theyr'e bikes all run fine. So like I said it matters more to the owner then the motor hows its "broken in".,,
#10
NOT ME, no way, huh-uh !!!!!!!!!!!
This is what happened LAST TIME, someone mentioned "break in".
That's when I lernt what "ride it like you stole it", ACTUALLY meant.
My way werx for me.
And it's NOT for Canadian consumpshun.
.
.
This is what happened LAST TIME, someone mentioned "break in".
That's when I lernt what "ride it like you stole it", ACTUALLY meant.
My way werx for me.
And it's NOT for Canadian consumpshun.
.
.