break in periods
#21
YEAH c'mon, Canuck, !!!!!!
Evidentally, NOT everyone follows along.
BUT, in Nytryder's defense, NS, they do STILL print 'em.
I don't recall seeing "Break-In" in the old manuals, tho. Guess they figured IF you bought one, you were schmott enuff to know 'how'. OR maybe because they were rather 'loose' tolerances, NO BREAK IN required.
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Evidentally, NOT everyone follows along.
BUT, in Nytryder's defense, NS, they do STILL print 'em.
I don't recall seeing "Break-In" in the old manuals, tho. Guess they figured IF you bought one, you were schmott enuff to know 'how'. OR maybe because they were rather 'loose' tolerances, NO BREAK IN required.
.
just to clear it up i know the "factory method" and i know the Motoman method. just trying to gauge others methods and see if i can find a consistant medium * factory takes to long and mototune method seems way to risky
#22
For one, I know for a FACT that standard oil works well for a break in, so why change? . Second, factory bikes (as I mentioned) are pre-run under load to seat the rinds. Third, Synthetic will retard the heat build up that is neccessary for proper ring seating. Forth, Synthetic is costly, do you really want to spend that sort of $$$ only to dump it 4 or 5 times before the 1K mark?
It's your $$$ and not telling anyone what to do. Only suggesting an alternative method for break in (which works well btw). Most folks dont have the mechanical savvy for the fast break in method, but ask any good performance motor man, car or bike and I am sure they will tell you same thing.
How would you suggest seating the rings? Have you ever used Synthetic for break in?
I'm all ears.
It's your $$$ and not telling anyone what to do. Only suggesting an alternative method for break in (which works well btw). Most folks dont have the mechanical savvy for the fast break in method, but ask any good performance motor man, car or bike and I am sure they will tell you same thing.
How would you suggest seating the rings? Have you ever used Synthetic for break in?
I'm all ears.
#23
www.mototuneusa.com and yet another opinion.
It's my opinion that an opinion is not and opinion if you can state your argument as fact, and the website that you are refering to is just that..fact! Dont have the any idea where opinion comes into it?.
Was offering a solution to a brother with grease under his fingernails. If you have a ALTERNATIVE method for seating rings, then I'm all ears. ( And I am sure there is)
This old dog is always willing to learn a new trick or two.
Last edited by HogTuner; 02-26-2010 at 12:12 PM.
#24
yeah went through my buddys manual for his no mention of "break in" period in it. man i manged to do all the work on this bike so far without a manual i would hate to ruin that pace just for break in methods LOL
just to clear it up i know the "factory method" and i know the Motoman method. just trying to gauge others methods and see if i can find a consistant medium * factory takes to long and mototune method seems way to risky
just to clear it up i know the "factory method" and i know the Motoman method. just trying to gauge others methods and see if i can find a consistant medium * factory takes to long and mototune method seems way to risky
The factory method takes minutes. Every motor is pre-run(I believe 15 minutes, under controlled load) before installation. A dealer will seat the rings with a dyno which doesnt take long. And why do you suppose synthetic is preferred over regular? Maybe it has better lubrication property's therefore reducing friction which equates into less heat. (just a lucky guess).
What do you think the pro's do? Drive around in their car/bike for 1000 miles? The Motoman methods had been used since I was a kid, and Im 53 now. But your right, unless you know what your doing..well, take it to the dealer.
How did YOU brake in your last build?
#25
Oh crap! I just realized that I never broke in any of the new cars and trucks I bought over the years. Forgot to break in the off shore boat (v8) , the airboat ( aircraft n aircooled ), the ole three wheeler ( aircooled ), that Evinrude ( outboard) on the flats boat and the Rotax on the Powered Parachute ( water cooled ). Strange thing is I don't remember any of them doing anything but running...:-)
#26
The factory method takes minutes. Every motor is pre-run(I believe 15 minutes, under controlled load) before installation. A dealer will seat the rings with a dyno which doesnt take long. And why do you suppose synthetic is preferred over regular? Maybe it has better lubrication property's therefore reducing friction which equates into less heat. (just a lucky guess).
What do you think the pro's do? Drive around in their car/bike for 1000 miles? The Motoman methods had been used since I was a kid, and Im 53 now. But your right, unless you know what your doing..well, take it to the dealer.
How did YOU brake in your last build?
What do you think the pro's do? Drive around in their car/bike for 1000 miles? The Motoman methods had been used since I was a kid, and Im 53 now. But your right, unless you know what your doing..well, take it to the dealer.
How did YOU brake in your last build?
#28
I've always gone by the idea of ride it, but not to cruise at a constant speed for very long, after it warms up, get on it a little. Like has been said, a million ways to do it. Just don't baby it.
#29
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Born and raised in the NC Mtn's
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I don't get the no synthetic oil for 1k miles thing. Harley sends the bikes from the factory with synthetic in them. apparently it doesn't matter. As a motor runs and you put miles on it, it can't help but wear in. And with millions of bikes in the world that have been broken in every which way you can imagine, it seems the owners are the only part which need to be lulled into thinking there's a proper and improper way to do it. I've ridden with guys that ride aggressive and ones that ride like old ladys, and theyr'e bikes all run fine. So like I said it matters more to the owner then the motor hows its "broken in".,,