There is another way to shift without the clutch that wont hurt the clutch or trans-an electric shifter that kills the coil for a few milliseconds (adjustable) and allows full throttle clutchless shifting. I run one on my FXR. (yeah it's a hot rod bike but the same principle could be used on a bagger or any normal Harley) I have a switch on my handlebars to activate it if I want to hot rod or smoke a sportbike and I hide the kill box under the bike. Otherwise I leave it off and foot shift normally. been running this type of set up for several years with no issues. It kills the bike, unloads the trans, shifts, and you are gone.
Here's a couple pics-
HERE''S THE LEFT SIDE OF THE BIKE-REALLY CAN'T SEE ANYTHING UNUSUAL IF YOU PULL UP NEXT TO IT-


SWITCH-

THE KILL UNIT-

THE KILL TIME ADJUSTMENT BOX-

 

I use the clutch about 65% of the time... the rest I have fun not using it... The way I see it I bought the f...ing bike I'll do what the hell I want with it... And I don't ride other peoples bike I find it to be bad luck... But I can guarantee I can shift just as smooth if not more smooth without the clutch vs. with the clutch...

 

If I owned a Transmission shop, the first thing I would certainly tell all of my clientel would be to "never ever use the clutch if you don't think you need to." That way I would always have a way to feed my family. DUHHH.

 

I always use my clutch on MY bike. I drove the same old freightliner for 11 years never had a tranny problem when the truck was replace it had almost 600k on it. the only clutch use was start and stop. I think some people have got the rythem down some don't that is why they destroy trannys. I would not reccomend it on a Harley.My 2 cents

 

Don't see the reason why you wouldn't pull or at least blip the lever.It just puts strain on the drive line that over time could add up to problems.No matter how gentle think for a minute what goes on inside the transmission,then the rest of the drive line when the clutchless shifts are not quite so smooth.Your machine do what you feel is right for you.

 

[QUOTE=PWMORRIS;6209273]There is another way to shift without the clutch that wont hurt the clutch or trans-an electric shifter that kills the coil for a few milliseconds (adjustable) and allows full throttle clutchless shifting. I run one on my FXR. (yeah it's a hot rod bike but the same principle could be used on a bagger or any normal Harley) I have a switch on my handlebars to activate it if I want to hot rod or smoke a sportbike and I hide the kill box under the bike. Otherwise I leave it off and foot shift normally. been running this type of set up for several years with no issues. It kills the bike, unloads the trans, shifts, and you are gone.
Here's a couple pics-
HERE''S THE LEFT SIDE OF THE BIKE-REALLY CAN'T SEE ANYTHING UNUSUAL IF YOU PULL UP NEXT TO IT-


SWITCH-

THE KILL UNIT-

THE KILL TIME ADJUSTMENT BOX-

I did set up a Panhead once to shift with a kill switch,when into the drag racing scene.Amazingly the 4 speed trans took that pounding for years.Shortly after selling the bike to a guy new to drag racing the transmission went south big time!!!!!!!!

 

Common sense... and high labor costs for replacement!

 

What a lot of you non clutch users a failing to realize is that comparing a car or truck trans to a motorcycle trans is like comparing apples and oranges. As I stated in an earlier post, most cars and trucks have a synchronized transmission while motorcycles and many race cars have what is commonly called a constant mesh gearbox.

When shifting a synchronized trans without the clutch you can match the input shaft RPM with the output shaft RPM with engine RPM. With the assistance of the synchronizers, shift through the gears without much problem or grinding with some experience.

With a constant mesh gearbox there is no matching of RPM between input and output shaft. There is no way to synchronize input and output shaft speed with the engine RPM as there is no H pattern to find neutral to match this RPM. The trans simply slams from 2nd to 3rd or 4th to 5th without the aid of having the benefit of having neutral between every gear. All the clutch does is dissengage the primary drive which allows the trans to shift gears without the immediate sudden load impact of the gear ratios that are exerted on the drive train. These immediate load changes are very severe and add extra stress on the drive line. As staded above you can add a electronic device to assist in releasing this load impact by cutting of fuel/ignition to the engine to maxime shifting efficiency and minimize risk of damage to the driveline.

Bottom line again, it's your driveline so do what you want with it.
For me, no way am I putting this type of unnecessary shock on the driveline, there is absolutely no need for it and all it will do is cut short the life of the driveline.

I would advise new riders not to do it.

 

I really don't know the answer but the 300 pound difference may sond like a logical reason why you should use it. But agian I dont know the real answer. Smart enough to know I don't know.

 

[QUOTE]
Had to respond, It only takes one good missed shift to start the chain of screwing things up. Do you like playing Russian Roulette to?