dyna rocker cover removal
#1
dyna rocker cover removal
hey, i'm looking for any info on what it takes to remove the rocker covers off of my 2007 street bob. nothing wrong with them, i am just trying to black out my engine, so i want to replace the stock ones with wrinkle black covers. i understand that i will need to remove my gas tank and then the 6 allens on each of the top covers, but there are also a lower covers that i want to replace with wrinkled blacked covers. i would like to know what i am getting myself into before i go out and buy 4 wrinkle black covers and then discover i am unable to do this job myself and be out more $ to have someone else do this. any help/advice would be greatly appreciated.
#3
rocker covers are just on with cpl bolts is all and gasket. Once removed keep the area covered while the parts are out getting powdercoated so nothing gets inside.
#5
As always, the service manual for your specific model is of great value for this procedure. You'll need the torque specs from it, and there may be a few tips as to your specific model also.
You may not need to remove the tank completely, just take the bolts out and raise it up high enough to get the bolts out of the rocker covers. Watch the fuel lines while doing this, they can be positioned to allow the tank to be raised. Use a 2x4 block or something shoved between the tank and frame to hold it up. Then remove the six bolts on the top cover, and take the covers off.
Under the covers, in the center of the rocker boxes, there are two bolts holding the breather valve and filter. Remove those and the breather boxes. If you can't remove the bolts, just loosen them completely, they will come out with the lowers once all the bolts are fully loosened.
Then there are four bolts holding the rocker arm support plates. You cannot remove these until you have the lower box loosened as well, and they all come out with the lower box. Note that if you have adjustable pushrods, you may wish to loosen the push rods first, to releave tension on the rocker arms themselves.
Loosen the rocker support plate bolts slowly, while turning each bolt one or two turns in succession, in an opposing pattern, to releave the pressure. BUT without experience, it can be a bit difficult to know when you are causing stess to the rocker arms and support plate. Just take your time.
Then loosen the other four bolts in the corners of the bottom rocker box cover/plate. Again, just loosen these don't remove them, and with an opposing pattern. Once you have all the eight bolts loosened, you can work the bottom rocker boxes with the rocker arm support plates out in one shot. You may have to lift the loosened bolts while doing this to get the assembly out.
Clean all gasket surfaces and toss the old o-rings and gaskets, and use new ones on install. Then just reverse the removal procedure, and torque all fasteners to specs.
If you have adjustable pushrods, then you will need to rotate the rear tire in order to get the pistons in the correct position to readjust them on install. And the pistions must be at top dead center so the cams are also positioned properly. You want to do one cylinder at a time for this process.
That's about it...
EDIT: That drawing OhioSkully posted will help greatly to see the parts I'm speaking of. Thx OS!
You may not need to remove the tank completely, just take the bolts out and raise it up high enough to get the bolts out of the rocker covers. Watch the fuel lines while doing this, they can be positioned to allow the tank to be raised. Use a 2x4 block or something shoved between the tank and frame to hold it up. Then remove the six bolts on the top cover, and take the covers off.
Under the covers, in the center of the rocker boxes, there are two bolts holding the breather valve and filter. Remove those and the breather boxes. If you can't remove the bolts, just loosen them completely, they will come out with the lowers once all the bolts are fully loosened.
Then there are four bolts holding the rocker arm support plates. You cannot remove these until you have the lower box loosened as well, and they all come out with the lower box. Note that if you have adjustable pushrods, you may wish to loosen the push rods first, to releave tension on the rocker arms themselves.
Loosen the rocker support plate bolts slowly, while turning each bolt one or two turns in succession, in an opposing pattern, to releave the pressure. BUT without experience, it can be a bit difficult to know when you are causing stess to the rocker arms and support plate. Just take your time.
Then loosen the other four bolts in the corners of the bottom rocker box cover/plate. Again, just loosen these don't remove them, and with an opposing pattern. Once you have all the eight bolts loosened, you can work the bottom rocker boxes with the rocker arm support plates out in one shot. You may have to lift the loosened bolts while doing this to get the assembly out.
Clean all gasket surfaces and toss the old o-rings and gaskets, and use new ones on install. Then just reverse the removal procedure, and torque all fasteners to specs.
If you have adjustable pushrods, then you will need to rotate the rear tire in order to get the pistons in the correct position to readjust them on install. And the pistions must be at top dead center so the cams are also positioned properly. You want to do one cylinder at a time for this process.
That's about it...
EDIT: That drawing OhioSkully posted will help greatly to see the parts I'm speaking of. Thx OS!
Last edited by CroK; 01-09-2010 at 06:21 PM.
#6
Some people like to blacken just the upper rocker box covers, and not the lowers. That would make it much easer, and the contrast between the lower chrome box and upper blackened cover does look great! Just depends on the look yer after...
#7
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+1 with CroK, most critical are torque values so that you don't warp the covers and the pushrods removal and install.
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