I feel your pain.

An impact driver is an excellent suggestion...if you can get the driver into the spot where the bolt is located....I couldn't (it was on the left swing arm, near the frame pivot...the two bolts I needed to take off were under the belt and end of the fender...the bolts that would hold the new passenger leftside peg support...if I could ever get the effing things off). I finally got enough penetrating PB blaster into the bolts, placed a big vice-grip on the bolt top (which wasn't easy becasue there's not a lot to grab on the round-headed bolt top flush against the swing arm).....the Harley dealership mechanic suggested the vise-grips, using heat (couldn't use much because it's on a painted part), whacking it with a cold chisel at an angle, and penetrating oil. If I broke one of them off I'd have been disassembling the whole rear end of the bike to get enough room to drill out the bolt to retap the swingarm attachment point.

When I mentioned to the Harley mechanic I'd never seen anything like it in more than a few years of working on stuff, he said, "welcome to my world".....and that the factory people had a reputation for going ape with the pneumatic wrenches and locktite during assembly. He said he was only half-joking about HD being tired of hearing about parts falling off their bikes....so they weren't taking chances during assembly. He said there are parts on specific models (changing from year to year) that are legendary among mechs for difficulty of removal.

When I took off the little torx head bolt holding the front of the belt guard it sheared off flush....and I just drilled that sucker out (it gets thrown away because the passenger peg mount replaces that function on that side). My guess is that the same factory ******* that put the two closely located parts was having a bad day with a line supervisor. The identical T45 bolts on the right side came off fine.

When I put the rear luggage rack and sissy bar on the bike I expected the T45's to be just as difficult to remove but they came out just fine. I now approach every bolt on the bike pretty warily.

I will say say that the assembly instructions that come with HD MoCo accessories are easily the best I've ever seen (some of the metric instructions are nonexistent or written in engrish).....and the shop manual for the FXD has been an excellent purchase too.

 

If you just need heat, you can hold a solder iron tip on the bolt for a while. Depending on the size of bolt, it may take a while to reach 350F. I have done this on small machine screws.

 

Never seen a loctite that can't be broken free. Some need more force than another, but none should have the capability for strength more than the bolt itself.
If your condition will allow it, Heat up a steel bar red hot and place it on the head of the bolt. It will conduct the heat from the head to the threads eventually enough to soften the loctite. The more contact surface between the two the quicker it will conduct. A bar reheat might be needed if it cools too quickly but this has worked for me a few times, especially on pipe plugs where you risk chewing out the small allen section before the plug breaks free. I guess torx will fall into this category as well. Normal hex nuts and bolts usually will break free without problems.
Ron

 

We used this penetrating oil at work in our Skilled trades shop for yrs,,, best we ever seen....not sure on loctited bolts...those we just heated up... bit can't use the touch on the bike....

http://www.chesterton.com/Product%20...tdms723_EN.pdf

 

I must lead a sheltered life, never seen green loctite, always the red that comes in a couple of different strengths, like others have said, twist on it till it breaks and replace it.

 

Threadlockers
Loctite® Threadlocker Green

Prevents vibration loosening of pre-assembled fasteners

For use on electrical connectors, instrumentation, screws, and set screws

Ideal for fasterners #2 - 1/2"

 

Red is the only threadlocker I have had to use heat on and not all the time!

 

Never had a problem wrenching fasteners that have been thread locked so not sure what your concern is...Loctite is just so fasteners will not work themselves loose

 

+1 I have done the soldering iron trick numerous times on bolts, nuts, screws, etc... that were loctited. Works really well on the machine screws on scope rings and bases on rifles. Just hold the tip on the "offending critter" for a couple of minutes or so....the bigger the fastener, the longer the time.

Good luck

 

Exactly. Invest in one of these, and it'll take no time at all.