Everyone, thanks for the responses. I think I'm just going to use my "New" opener that I bought last night at Home Depot for $32.00. This one is the small (FOB) one that goes on a keychain. With the other one, I was always trying to find it in the windshield bag when I pulled in the driveway and if I had thick gloves on, then I'd have to take those off....whine whine whine...I know...Why is it that guys get the most joy out of neat cheap gadgets... (you'd think we'd won the lottery when something works or feel like someone has died when something simple doesn't..... I just thought the idea of flashing the high beams would be nice and also would ever have to come to a stop before entering the garage. I run my bike on dim all the time and also keep the passing lamps on. No more "oh I'll rewire it....." for me!

 

Yeah, I must admit, there is a rewarding feeling involved when you tinker with stuff and it works as planned.
Please excuse my previous sarcasm. I've been bit by the tinker bug before.

 

You need a 12v opener because your bike is 12v's. If you use and opener that is less volts with out dropping the voltage it will fry the opener. Here is some more info on doing this...

http://www.kawiforums.com/showthread.php?t=20947

Trucky911

 

Just what I was going to say.....Never fried one either......
windshield bag holds the glasses and door opener easy.....

 

After reading that story, the $100+ I spent on the HD opener sounds like a bargain.

 

I'm not making a recommendation there Ed. Just trying help the guy out based on the question he asked. The 3 volt circuit would draw an extra 3mA and the 9 volt circuit would draw an extra 9mA, do the math.

 

I inject too much sarcasm in many of my posts, that's my nature and I really don't mean any harm. I do see that you were just answering a question and it was kind of you to do so.

However, I just don't agree with the circuit as recommended (whoever originally steered him that way). If I were to play with that circuit, I would use a totally separate circuit that in no way interfered with the integrity of any existing circuit on the bike.

The little rubber booted pushbutton that jogs your odometer, mounted anywhere you see fit, wired directly to the remote contacts that the remote button connects,.... is simple and safe and won't interfere with anything. While the headlight switch aspect is "cool", it just looks like you are adding unnecessary draw that might come back to haunt you someday. It really bugs me that the circuit is live every time your brights are on. That just ain't right. Especially in the case that some poor fool happens to have a similar code on his garage as you ride by. LOL (I know, not very likely).

 

I got the HD opener, flick the headlights just before the driveway and it's open when I get there.

Live real close to neighbors with small kids so try to minimize time idling in driveway at 2AM.

Otherwise I would stick to garage opener on a keychain or windshield bag. Cheaper and easier to install.

 

Couldn't agree more, it should be a temp push button on a completely separate circuit "if you're going to do that". I would never do on my bike, eluded to that in the first post, it's too easy to just carry a battery operated remote.


However, this seems to be a popular thing to do for some reason.
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...n-buttons.html


Texas Fat Boy's post in this thread...
"I have the garage door mod that uses the high beem swicth to activate the door."

Anyway, no worries, it's the weekend, sun is out and I'm headed for the road.

t

 

What trucky911 said. You need a 12 volt opener (very common) and just remove the battery and wire it to your battery on the bike. Then use a small push button switch and wire it to the opener switch. The odometer button is perfect. Just get one and install it on the opposite side of the console. Very clean. The opener itself can be hidden anywhere on the bike, just run wires from the battery and the switch to the opener itself.

Ron