HD CAUTION - "Do not switch lubricant brands..."
#21
11-30-2009, 02:30 PM
Fast Hoss, if that is actually what he said you need to find a different "real" oil guy. Everything in that engine is "seated" in very few miles after being assembled. To say changing oils causes things to reseat is not very intelligent. If that were the case people with a worn engine could just change oils, everything would "reseat" and we would never have to tear down for wear related issues ..........
#22
11-30-2009, 02:46 PM
Road Master
FWIW I've also read that it's the different additive packages in the different oils that you don't want to constantly be changing between oils. Pick one and stick as much as you can. When I find my favorite Dino oil on sale I buy a case or two to keep in the garage so I've always got some when it's time to change my oil.
#23
11-30-2009, 02:53 PM
Elite HDF Member
Didn't our Federal Government mandate that all oils be compatable?. .viscosity for viscosity? In my youth I worked in a truck stop and changed oil in big rigs and cages and at that time was told that all oils from different labels could be mixed without damage.. We used to upend the old oil cans from oil changes and let them drain into a larger can and when that can was full we(the guys that worked at the station ) would use it to change the oil in our pickups.. Thats where I learned to be young and brave..or is that foolish.. oh well it was a fun time..
Got this from a real oil guy.The different additive packages that they put into the oil will cause some oil loss for a few oil changes untill your motor reseats.This is even a planned thing when fleets are changing from one type of oil to another,they are warned about some oil consumtion untill their engines reseat.
#24
11-30-2009, 03:04 PM
I wouldn't mix oils just because every brand has it's "special" addative package.
There is some truth to what Fasthoss says. It's not a matter of re-seating engine parts though. When John Deere first introduced their 15W40 +50 diesel engine oils it cause engines to smoke for 100 or so hours. After studying the problem it was detemined that the deposits in the engines left by other oils were breaking down and being burned off. Normally by the third oil change the oil burning was finished.
There is some truth to what Fasthoss says. It's not a matter of re-seating engine parts though. When John Deere first introduced their 15W40 +50 diesel engine oils it cause engines to smoke for 100 or so hours. After studying the problem it was detemined that the deposits in the engines left by other oils were breaking down and being burned off. Normally by the third oil change the oil burning was finished.
Last edited by frog13; 11-30-2009 at 03:10 PM.
#25
11-30-2009, 04:11 PM
Provided the oil's in question meet the required specifications, converting from one oil brand or type (dino vs syn) to another is not a problem. Likewise, using a different brand oil, that meets the required spec's, in a pinch to "top off" your oil level is not a problem.
And yes, you can mix dino and syn if necessary.
Indiscriminately, mixing different oils is probably not the best of ideas.
And yes, you can mix dino and syn if necessary.
Indiscriminately, mixing different oils is probably not the best of ideas.
If you were to constantly mixing different oils each time you changed it, there MIGHT be an issue with incompatible modifiers.
But Stay With a Major brand oil rated for air cooled motors and you be fine.
#27
11-30-2009, 04:40 PM
Grand HDF Member
What exactly is supposed to happen by changing brands of oil? I have always felt that as long as you use the specified weight of oil for your motor you will have a fine running motor. Being most people don't hold onto their bike till the point of needing a rebuild, and the ones who do sometimes do it out of boredom. They put stroker cranks and other things then stock parts. If you look at the oil posts you'll find just about every type of oil has been used at some point, and they all seem to work. I have tried different brands during changes and my motor runs as good as ever. Harley oil does not even have a api rating on the bottle, so you really should wonder why not?
#29
12-01-2009, 12:09 AM
Oil is not only oil. There is agents and parafins in oil. Some will not react well together. I would not use say HD oil and add 1/2 qt of Joe Blow's oil.
When changing brands I always pour about 1/8 qt to help push out the old with the plug out. That is just me.
Most oils out there have recycled crap added back into them. http://www.epa.gov/EPA-GENERAL/1995/...r-692.txt.html
http://www.api.org/certifications/en...yclingmore.cfm
Pick and oil and stick with it.
When changing brands I always pour about 1/8 qt to help push out the old with the plug out. That is just me.
Most oils out there have recycled crap added back into them. http://www.epa.gov/EPA-GENERAL/1995/...r-692.txt.html
http://www.api.org/certifications/en...yclingmore.cfm
Pick and oil and stick with it.
#30
12-01-2009, 01:58 AM
Yup, any good 20/50 motorcycle oil is fine for the long haul. Mixing oils brands can cause additive pkg incompatibility and you can run diesel oil in a pinch...
