More than 3amp fuse for gloves?
#31
Just saw the added comments from the Edit...
While your theory is anecdotal, what could be occurring with an intermittent connection is that you're going to get numerous make-breaks, which would be like turning a light switch on & off many times. Each surge can cause a fuseable element to exercise a little, and after some time, it will just give it up, kinda like a light bulb filament will fail after too many rapid cycles.
Regarding the controller, the draw is very minimal, since it is not a thermostat -- it just interrupts the current flow at various duty cycles. However, each one of those make-breaks will have the same effect on a fuse I described above, so if you're operating close to the fuse's design limit, the chance for failure increases.
There is little harm in installing the largest fuse that the wiring can safely handle -- faults (shorts) usually don't cause just a slight increase in current flow; they usually cause a big increase, which will blow most fuses.
While your theory is anecdotal, what could be occurring with an intermittent connection is that you're going to get numerous make-breaks, which would be like turning a light switch on & off many times. Each surge can cause a fuseable element to exercise a little, and after some time, it will just give it up, kinda like a light bulb filament will fail after too many rapid cycles.
Regarding the controller, the draw is very minimal, since it is not a thermostat -- it just interrupts the current flow at various duty cycles. However, each one of those make-breaks will have the same effect on a fuse I described above, so if you're operating close to the fuse's design limit, the chance for failure increases.
There is little harm in installing the largest fuse that the wiring can safely handle -- faults (shorts) usually don't cause just a slight increase in current flow; they usually cause a big increase, which will blow most fuses.
A huge thank you, for your detailed explanation.
Knowledge gained, for sure!
#32
I run my gloves with the 3 amp fuse per the enclosed instructions. Never blown one. If you're blowing the fuse, it would indicate a problem somewhere. I suspect moving up to a 5 amp fuse won't solve the problem.
SKOOTCHNC
Actually, my HD/Gerbing G3's are very warm gloves when not plugged in. I wear them in mid to low 40's temps and they are awesome for that. If the temps climb more towards mid to high 40's and sunny, my hands get warm enough to sweat.
SKOOTCHNC
as you discovered. heated gear suck, without electrical power
#34
I run my gloves with the 3 amp fuse per the enclosed instructions. Never blown one. If you're blowing the fuse, it would indicate a problem somewhere. I suspect moving up to a 5 amp fuse won't solve the problem.
SKOOTCHNC
Actually, my HD/Gerbing G3's are very warm gloves when not plugged in. I wear them in mid to low 40's temps and they are awesome for that. If the temps climb more towards mid to high 40's and sunny, my hands get warm enough to sweat.
SKOOTCHNC
Actually, my HD/Gerbing G3's are very warm gloves when not plugged in. I wear them in mid to low 40's temps and they are awesome for that. If the temps climb more towards mid to high 40's and sunny, my hands get warm enough to sweat.
Hey maybe we are doing something wrong if our 3A fuses are not blowing.
#36
What's even funnier is when it's 20 degrees or so and you have the wires run down your sleeves and get the gloves plugged in and the controller all set on the bike & extra wire all tucked away and you start riding, thinking it must be REALLY cold because your gloves don't feel warm at all... then you stop and notice you never plugged the controller in to the pigtail.
#37
maybe battery voltage was a little low ? did you turn on the glove switch before starting or during starting the bike ? these will increase amp draw... possibley a corroded connecection in the circuit somewhere ? i wouldnt worry about it until you try a 5 amp fuse and see what happens
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