Difficult startup: help needed.
#1
Difficult startup: help needed.
My '07 FXDC has some difficulties in startup. Not anything dramatic, but it's there.
I run with Kuryakin intake, Krome Werks exhausts and SEST.
With a cold engine I have to keep down the start button for some seconds (you can count 6-8 engine revs before it "takes").
I've got new spark plugs, a new Odyssey battery, but the problem is still there.
If I rev it two-three engine turns, stop and then rev it up again, then it usually starts at the first engine turn.
With a warm engine, no problem, it starts as soon as I touch the button.
After these difficult cold startups, the engine runs rough for a minute or so, and then it runs flawlessly.
It seems to be something about cranking fuel or IAC. I tried to rise cranking fuel, but it seems to be at its maximum already for the temp range in which I have the problem.
I also tried to lower the IAC: the engine seems to start a little better, but then runs rough, as stated, which it didn't before, so I think I'll put back the original parameters.
I'm pretty much stuck, so any help would be much appreciated.
I run with Kuryakin intake, Krome Werks exhausts and SEST.
With a cold engine I have to keep down the start button for some seconds (you can count 6-8 engine revs before it "takes").
I've got new spark plugs, a new Odyssey battery, but the problem is still there.
If I rev it two-three engine turns, stop and then rev it up again, then it usually starts at the first engine turn.
With a warm engine, no problem, it starts as soon as I touch the button.
After these difficult cold startups, the engine runs rough for a minute or so, and then it runs flawlessly.
It seems to be something about cranking fuel or IAC. I tried to rise cranking fuel, but it seems to be at its maximum already for the temp range in which I have the problem.
I also tried to lower the IAC: the engine seems to start a little better, but then runs rough, as stated, which it didn't before, so I think I'll put back the original parameters.
I'm pretty much stuck, so any help would be much appreciated.
#3
The three things I would check is that the temp sensor is reading the correct temp, if it reads high it would give a lean mix for the temp. If the fuel pressure is low, could do the same, but I think that would show at wide open throttle too, unless the fuel settings compensate for that. A low IAC improving it might point to an intake vacuum leak, I know others on the board have commented that a hard start was traced to an intake leak.
#4
How long do you wait from the time the "Run" switch is set to ON to when you actually hit the Start button?
I was told to wait until the Check Engine light went out before I hit Start. I find that this wait causes the engine to turn over 4 to 5 times before it starts. I now turn the ignition switch ON, hit the Run button and as soon as I hear the Fuel Pump I hit the Start button. It starts in about 1 to 2 revolutions of the engine. On my bike I think it may have something to do with the PC V, I think it's still in initiating mode and not fully active. Try it and see what happens.
I was told to wait until the Check Engine light went out before I hit Start. I find that this wait causes the engine to turn over 4 to 5 times before it starts. I now turn the ignition switch ON, hit the Run button and as soon as I hear the Fuel Pump I hit the Start button. It starts in about 1 to 2 revolutions of the engine. On my bike I think it may have something to do with the PC V, I think it's still in initiating mode and not fully active. Try it and see what happens.
#5
I was told that I had to wait for the ECU to finish the self test before hitting the start switch, but I myself found that, if I hit it as soon as the fuel pump whirrs up, it starts easier.
Temp seems to be ok.
I'll try to test for an intake leak with a propane gas bottle...
Temp seems to be ok.
I'll try to test for an intake leak with a propane gas bottle...
#6
And the problem is? I have two bikes right now and they both start different. I have had both of these two bikes for six almost seven years now----so I know their quirks. The efi bike usually takes 5 to 6 revolutions to catch cold. The carbed bike takes at least 5 and sometimes 7 revolutions to start cold. Both catch quick when warm but I always thought that was normal. Hell I love to hear that starter crank over. Always a better sound then me grunting when I kick one over while wondering how well tuned it is today.
#7
You guys who hit the start button as soon as you hear the fuel pump begin to wind up might want to allow the fuel pump to come to a stop after it reaches proper fuel line pressure, just a thought.
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#8
Jamie at fuelmoto told me to start it up immediately and not wait for the light to go out. He didn't mention anything about hearing the fuel pump. I tried this, and the bike starts right up now, as it did before installing the PCV. He gave me a technical explanation for this, but I don't recall what it was. I trust whatever he tells me when it comes to fuel/intake advice.
#9
Jamie at fuelmoto told me to start it up immediately and not wait for the light to go out. He didn't mention anything about hearing the fuel pump. I tried this, and the bike starts right up now, as it did before installing the PCV. He gave me a technical explanation for this, but I don't recall what it was. I trust whatever he tells me when it comes to fuel/intake advice.
When I bought the bike the guy that delivered to me said I should wait until the fuel pressure comes up and a sure way of doing this if you have bad hearing is to wait until the Check Engine light goes out. Having said that, If the engine starts in one or two rotations if I don't wait what's the harm in it? Fuel is there otherwise it wouldn't start.
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