WINTER Storage
#1
WINTER Storage
Every year, we get the same ?'s, concerning "Winter Storage".
I'd like to get 'one' post, that contains as much info, as is needed, and available.
IF it turns out worth a chit, maybe we can have the "Powers", post it, as a 'sticky'
So, with that said, I'm going to start it up.
IF, you see I posted some 'erroneous' chit, PM me, and I'll correct it, clarify it, or get rid of it.
Or if you post it here, I'll re-edit the 'original', so we can keep it in 'one' place.
I am NOT easily embarrassed, so JUMP ON MY CHIT, if I screw the 'pooch' along the way.
NOT sure, how long this will take me, I do have somewhat, of a life, albeit, a rather 'bland' one. It IS schnowin', right now. So if I end the post with "Mo' ta come", that means, I AINT DUN YET, and I'll be back.
In an 'attempt' to keep it as simple as possible, I'm gonna focus on "COLD" winter storage. From that, you can adapt, adjust, admire, admonish, and adhock, whatever you "warm" peeps want to, OKAY???
First of all, it is not the cold, that is the issue, as most will know. It is the 'warm up', that causes the major issue, "Condensation". So it's the cold/warm cycle. (Think coming into the house, with "cold" glasses on)
That said, IF you have to put it where it is "Cold", KEEP IT COLD, if at all possible. When I had to keep mine in 'cold' storage, I would do whatever I could, in the spring, to keep the warm air off the scoots, until I knew we were 'past' that warm day/cold night BS. And WHEN you do 'warm' it, transition, as fast as you can. Actually, in the direct sun, is one of the easiest, and cheapest.
Obviously, people who live in a 'higher humidity' area, suffer from 'condensation', more, than in dry.
This can also happen, if you are out riding in COLD weather, and then roll into a heated garage. IF it is 'bad' humid, throw a fan on, to transition as fast as possible, IF you are concerned.
Remember, ANYTHING exposed, or vented, to the atmosphere, is subject to this cold/warm. That includes, gas tanks, oil tanks, trannys, primaries, inside FRAMES, etc.
Gas tanks - The 'new' gasolines, DO NOT store, for chit !!!! That said, normally, add a fuel stabilizer, Sta-Bil, etc, I add Seafoam, then top it off. I actually do this BEFORE I know I am gonna 'lay up', to ensure the 'mixture' is in the lines, etc. Then jus' top off, when you know you're "done". Keeping the tank FULL, means you have left no air space in there, see "condensation". I always used to leave my carbs, FULL. But, the past couple of years, we have had issues, with these 'new' blended fuels. (NOT ethanol, we've had that for 20+ yrs) So I now, run mine, til dry. So far, so good. NOTE: mine are kept in the shop, heated.
Oil and oil tank - Just like you would change your oil, normally, change it. Get the acids, etc, out of there, before lay up. New filter, etc.
I see once in a while, someone will post to 'start it' occassionally. NOT unless you know you are going to be able to ride it long enough, and far enough, to heat ALL the oils, COMPLETELY. IF you have or had any condensation going on, you now just mixed that 'water', into your oil. And you have to get the oil HOT to 'boil' it off. Believe it or not, IME, the tranny, is the most susceptible, to this, scenario. My belief is, it takes so long, to get it hot enough, peeps do not get it boiled off. Have seen some, that looked like a 'milkshake', when you pull the plug !!!!!
Battery/Electrical - CRAP SHOOT !!! J/K. You see 'this one' all over the spectrum. Cold does NOT kill batts, HEAT kills batts. That said, I normally pull my batts. (Always doing something to the scoots, winter updates, upkeep, etc) I only have one 'tender', so I put ALL the batts on one charger. + to + to +, - to - to -. IF you have a maintenance type, make sure it is topped off with distilled water, and FULLY charged going in. Battery tender type charger, if you have one. Nothing wrong with leaving them in, just keep them charged, so they don't freeze. YES, they'll FREEZE, we're NOT in Florida, anymore, Dorothy.
Some folks like to disconnect the batt, to prevent any probs. IF you are in an outside shed, etc, you MAY have a mouse or rhodent knawing a wire, and shorting it. I KNOW, WTF, BUT you have to realize, NOT everyone, has immaculate conditions for storage. Your's truly, FOR YEARS !!!!!
Brakes and System - IF you are running DOT 5, top it off, to prevent air space in there. IF you run 3 or 4, you likewise need to top off, BUT, IF it has been in there 2 yrs or more, CHANGE IT !!!!! Some manuf's. note to change it ANNUALLY. It is "hygroscopic", it DRAWS moisture. The inside of your system, is 'iron', iron and water = FeO2, RUST !!!!!! This is a GOOD time, to flush it out, and keep the system from corroding, in storage. (Think 'above' oil change, here)
Some folks are indeed **** retentive, and I know some, who even reach in, and push the pads away from the rotors, to prevent sticking, and leaving a 'mark'. Again, you can adopt any, or none. IF you decide to do this, do it BEFORE you top off your master cyclinder !!!!!
Wheels N Tires - They've been built and stored, ON the tires, for generations. They are not going to 'flat spot' on you, over the winter. That said, IF you like yours 'off' the floor, and own a jack, BY ALL MEANS, use it. IF you don't, don't lose any sleep, over it.
Brake dust is corrosive. So, a good cleaning, is required, IF you want the wheels, to stay decent. Just use a good soap/cleaner, to get it off. For chrome wheels, some use WD40 to protect them over the winter. (NOT the rotors, Please.) Others, polish them good. For mags, WD40, or Pig Spit works, too. Something to protect, if you so desire.
Personally, I scrub my tires down with Westley's Bleach White, to get all the crud off, before lay up. BUT you have to remember, I run pan and shovel, think, oil !!!! But it works for brake dust, too. IF you want, there are tire dressings out there, to put on. I just wipe mine down with a li'l Wizards, good to go.
Cables - Lube the cables, before lay up. This will 'preempt' any probs, from condensation. Plus, you are ready to 'roll' come spring. Some folks like 'graphite', I use JB-80. The important thing, is to do it, not so much, what you do it with. PLUS, hopefully, you will notice any problemss, and will have the winter, to replace.
Sheetmetal/Frame - Clean it, thoroughly. I am a GUNK Foamy addict. The cases on the pan, are 44 yrs old, and look better, than when new. I now find it, a PITA, to work on a filthy scoot. Give it a good coat of wax. Don't foret, UNDER the scoot, too. Road grime, oil, what have you, under there. Easier to get it off, before lay up. BUT, to each, they own, OKAY ?!?!?!?
"Mo' ta Come", I know there's more, BUT Please, POST AWAY. ANYTHING you can think of, THANX !!!!!!!
IF you have a 'trick' or a product that is GREAT, get it on here!!!
And even if it is something associated with 'salt air', vs 'cold', if it's an issue, let's get it out there, for those who don't know. We get "COLD" here, but do not have the 'same issues' as YOU may have.
DARNT good thang, I aint gots ta put THIS in storage !!!!!!!
I'd like to get 'one' post, that contains as much info, as is needed, and available.
IF it turns out worth a chit, maybe we can have the "Powers", post it, as a 'sticky'
So, with that said, I'm going to start it up.
IF, you see I posted some 'erroneous' chit, PM me, and I'll correct it, clarify it, or get rid of it.
Or if you post it here, I'll re-edit the 'original', so we can keep it in 'one' place.
I am NOT easily embarrassed, so JUMP ON MY CHIT, if I screw the 'pooch' along the way.
NOT sure, how long this will take me, I do have somewhat, of a life, albeit, a rather 'bland' one. It IS schnowin', right now. So if I end the post with "Mo' ta come", that means, I AINT DUN YET, and I'll be back.
In an 'attempt' to keep it as simple as possible, I'm gonna focus on "COLD" winter storage. From that, you can adapt, adjust, admire, admonish, and adhock, whatever you "warm" peeps want to, OKAY???
First of all, it is not the cold, that is the issue, as most will know. It is the 'warm up', that causes the major issue, "Condensation". So it's the cold/warm cycle. (Think coming into the house, with "cold" glasses on)
That said, IF you have to put it where it is "Cold", KEEP IT COLD, if at all possible. When I had to keep mine in 'cold' storage, I would do whatever I could, in the spring, to keep the warm air off the scoots, until I knew we were 'past' that warm day/cold night BS. And WHEN you do 'warm' it, transition, as fast as you can. Actually, in the direct sun, is one of the easiest, and cheapest.
Obviously, people who live in a 'higher humidity' area, suffer from 'condensation', more, than in dry.
This can also happen, if you are out riding in COLD weather, and then roll into a heated garage. IF it is 'bad' humid, throw a fan on, to transition as fast as possible, IF you are concerned.
Remember, ANYTHING exposed, or vented, to the atmosphere, is subject to this cold/warm. That includes, gas tanks, oil tanks, trannys, primaries, inside FRAMES, etc.
Gas tanks - The 'new' gasolines, DO NOT store, for chit !!!! That said, normally, add a fuel stabilizer, Sta-Bil, etc, I add Seafoam, then top it off. I actually do this BEFORE I know I am gonna 'lay up', to ensure the 'mixture' is in the lines, etc. Then jus' top off, when you know you're "done". Keeping the tank FULL, means you have left no air space in there, see "condensation". I always used to leave my carbs, FULL. But, the past couple of years, we have had issues, with these 'new' blended fuels. (NOT ethanol, we've had that for 20+ yrs) So I now, run mine, til dry. So far, so good. NOTE: mine are kept in the shop, heated.
Oil and oil tank - Just like you would change your oil, normally, change it. Get the acids, etc, out of there, before lay up. New filter, etc.
I see once in a while, someone will post to 'start it' occassionally. NOT unless you know you are going to be able to ride it long enough, and far enough, to heat ALL the oils, COMPLETELY. IF you have or had any condensation going on, you now just mixed that 'water', into your oil. And you have to get the oil HOT to 'boil' it off. Believe it or not, IME, the tranny, is the most susceptible, to this, scenario. My belief is, it takes so long, to get it hot enough, peeps do not get it boiled off. Have seen some, that looked like a 'milkshake', when you pull the plug !!!!!
Battery/Electrical - CRAP SHOOT !!! J/K. You see 'this one' all over the spectrum. Cold does NOT kill batts, HEAT kills batts. That said, I normally pull my batts. (Always doing something to the scoots, winter updates, upkeep, etc) I only have one 'tender', so I put ALL the batts on one charger. + to + to +, - to - to -. IF you have a maintenance type, make sure it is topped off with distilled water, and FULLY charged going in. Battery tender type charger, if you have one. Nothing wrong with leaving them in, just keep them charged, so they don't freeze. YES, they'll FREEZE, we're NOT in Florida, anymore, Dorothy.
Some folks like to disconnect the batt, to prevent any probs. IF you are in an outside shed, etc, you MAY have a mouse or rhodent knawing a wire, and shorting it. I KNOW, WTF, BUT you have to realize, NOT everyone, has immaculate conditions for storage. Your's truly, FOR YEARS !!!!!
Brakes and System - IF you are running DOT 5, top it off, to prevent air space in there. IF you run 3 or 4, you likewise need to top off, BUT, IF it has been in there 2 yrs or more, CHANGE IT !!!!! Some manuf's. note to change it ANNUALLY. It is "hygroscopic", it DRAWS moisture. The inside of your system, is 'iron', iron and water = FeO2, RUST !!!!!! This is a GOOD time, to flush it out, and keep the system from corroding, in storage. (Think 'above' oil change, here)
Some folks are indeed **** retentive, and I know some, who even reach in, and push the pads away from the rotors, to prevent sticking, and leaving a 'mark'. Again, you can adopt any, or none. IF you decide to do this, do it BEFORE you top off your master cyclinder !!!!!
Wheels N Tires - They've been built and stored, ON the tires, for generations. They are not going to 'flat spot' on you, over the winter. That said, IF you like yours 'off' the floor, and own a jack, BY ALL MEANS, use it. IF you don't, don't lose any sleep, over it.
Brake dust is corrosive. So, a good cleaning, is required, IF you want the wheels, to stay decent. Just use a good soap/cleaner, to get it off. For chrome wheels, some use WD40 to protect them over the winter. (NOT the rotors, Please.) Others, polish them good. For mags, WD40, or Pig Spit works, too. Something to protect, if you so desire.
Personally, I scrub my tires down with Westley's Bleach White, to get all the crud off, before lay up. BUT you have to remember, I run pan and shovel, think, oil !!!! But it works for brake dust, too. IF you want, there are tire dressings out there, to put on. I just wipe mine down with a li'l Wizards, good to go.
Cables - Lube the cables, before lay up. This will 'preempt' any probs, from condensation. Plus, you are ready to 'roll' come spring. Some folks like 'graphite', I use JB-80. The important thing, is to do it, not so much, what you do it with. PLUS, hopefully, you will notice any problemss, and will have the winter, to replace.
Sheetmetal/Frame - Clean it, thoroughly. I am a GUNK Foamy addict. The cases on the pan, are 44 yrs old, and look better, than when new. I now find it, a PITA, to work on a filthy scoot. Give it a good coat of wax. Don't foret, UNDER the scoot, too. Road grime, oil, what have you, under there. Easier to get it off, before lay up. BUT, to each, they own, OKAY ?!?!?!?
"Mo' ta Come", I know there's more, BUT Please, POST AWAY. ANYTHING you can think of, THANX !!!!!!!
IF you have a 'trick' or a product that is GREAT, get it on here!!!
And even if it is something associated with 'salt air', vs 'cold', if it's an issue, let's get it out there, for those who don't know. We get "COLD" here, but do not have the 'same issues' as YOU may have.
DARNT good thang, I aint gots ta put THIS in storage !!!!!!!
#3
Only thing I would add for guys storing bikes up on the jack is make sure the jack is up to the task. Do not expect the cylinder to hold the bike up, seals can and do leak. Make sure the "locks' are sturdy and in place.
#6
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: The Internet (& Dyer, Indiana)
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just keep them charged, so they don't freeze
Good post Gump, BTW.
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#9
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Land of the Free, Home of Jack Daniel's
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I would like to add. After going thru all the work doing the things posted above and your bike is in cold storage, leave it sit. Do not go out to your garage the first week of February and start it up for 5 minutes just to hear her rumble. It's Bad, bad on the bike.
There will be a 1-800 # posted later for peeps who get to jonesing bad and need to hear a Harley rumble.
There will be a 1-800 # posted later for peeps who get to jonesing bad and need to hear a Harley rumble.
#10
Great post, Gump! I might add one thing: If you cover the bike for storage, never use a cover that doesn't breathe fully. Old bed sheets work great for me. Ya' can spend a fortune on one of those super duper fancy covers and wind up ADDING to the condensation problem.