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  #1  
Old 10-11-2009 | 01:00 PM
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Default 103 kit question

My jug gaskets have a slight leak. Eventually, they'll need to be replaced.

I'm thinking, if the jugs have to come off anyway, that might be a good excuse to throw on a big bore kit.

I asked the dealer service department about it. I already have the SE intake, and V&H longshots, I wouldn't need the whole kit. They quoted me a price of $1,561.89 - that's parts ($761.90) and labor ($800). That's seems awfully cheap. Does that sound right to you?

Looking at the kit, I don't see a crank. Wouldn't you need to replace the crank, going from an 88 to a 103?
 
  #2  
Old 10-11-2009 | 01:05 PM
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yes you would only have 95 with just the kit
 
  #3  
Old 10-11-2009 | 02:07 PM
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That's correct, you would definitely need a crank. My 103 is being put together by JD's Cycleworks in PA. Now granted, I'm having an awful lot done to my motor (compression releases, Timken upgrade, gear drive, roller rockers, new clutch, closed-loop conversion, etc.), but I'm so far past $1561 it ain't funny. A crank alone is gonna run near a grand.

Just a "big bore" kit is gonna be 95ci.
 
  #4  
Old 10-11-2009 | 02:21 PM
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I agree with the other posts........you need a new flywheel assembly, which will cost at around $1200 to go from 88" to 103". I would find out if the $761 quoted to you for parts include new heads as well, or just the cylinders and pistons. You would definitely need heads that had greater flow (large intake and exhaust valves) if you want to benefit from pumping up your motor.........even if you just go to 95" motor with cams.
 
  #5  
Old 10-11-2009 | 02:37 PM
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I agree with the other posts........you need a new flywheel assembly, which will cost at around $1200 to go from 88" to 103". I would find out if the $761 quoted to you for parts include new heads as well, or just the cylinders and pistons. You would definitely need heads that had greater flow (large intake and exhaust valves) if you want to benefit from pumping up your motor.........even if you just go to 95" motor with cams.

I am confident that headwork is not in his quote.
 
  #6  
Old 10-11-2009 | 02:42 PM
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as far as the heads just have yours ported when the big bore kit is installed. no need for expensive SE heads or otherwise.
 
  #7  
Old 10-11-2009 | 02:50 PM
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I'd guess that the quoted price is just for new jugs and pistons....not even cams.
 
  #8  
Old 10-11-2009 | 10:43 PM
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Rthomp... supposed to be jugs, pistons, 255 cams... not sure what else is or isn't there - we weren't talking in that much detail.

Thanks for everyone's input. I thought this sounded *way* too low for an 88 to 103 build. I'm thinking, depending on how you do it, the right price might be more like $3,000 just for parts.
 

Last edited by MidnitEvil; 10-12-2009 at 09:18 AM.
  #9  
Old 10-11-2009 | 11:06 PM
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That's the standard Stage II 103" kit in the catalog with a ok/decent price on labor. But are you sure that works on an 88"? I looked up the same thing to do on a new 96".
 
  #10  
Old 10-12-2009 | 08:20 AM
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Originally Posted by MidnitEvil
Rthomp... supposed to be jugs, pistons, 255 cams... not sure what else is or isn't there - we weren't talking in that much detail.

Thanks for everyone's input. I thought this sounded *way* to low for an 88 to 103 build. I'm thinking, depending on how you do it, the right price might be more like $3,000 just for parts.
Yeah, I'm thinking there's no way you can go 103 from 88 for that little bit. The crank's at least a grand, then you've got pistons, jugs, cams. Then you've got all the various gaskets, pushrods, and stuff. Might as well do some headwork while you're in there, and swap to either gear drive or the new hydraulic tensioners. And since you've got the case apart, a Timken upgrade isn't a bad idea either. How about roller rockers? Say, is the stock clutch gonna work with all that newfound power?

Trust me, it adds up really quickly.
 


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