Hey monstead, I do not believe I can add anything that has not already been said. I would like to ask you a question, is the pitbull lift as rock solid as I saw demoed at Boswell HD Sat. and is it easy to get position under the bike? Thanks

 

I love the lift and it is definitely rock solid. The guys on this forum pretty much don't have anything negative to say about it either.

In my case though, I lowered my bike 1" AND added a center stand. The center stand causes a problem getting the lift arms under the bike.
An amazingly generous forum member made & sent me some ramps and a kickstand block. I have to ride up the ramps to get the bike off the ground enough to place the lift under my bike...then, because of the cs...I have to put a 2x4 shim on one of the lift arms. Whew!!!! For that reason, I'm hesitant to "test" the stability (if you can imagine!). BUT, that all being said, I don't have any worries about it crashing down or failing.

Oh yeah, I did use it on a friend's Fatboy and it was very simple to use and stable. Wish it was that easy on my bike.

FWIW, I'm going to remove the center stand because of the above reason, plus my Indy said it makes it more difficult to get to the transmission plug. Also, the darn thing almost always scrapes speed bumps and driveway dips. Just am finding those issues a bigger issue than the convenience of having it.

 

Thanks for the info monstead, appreciate it. Ride safe.

 

good info

 

Get the HD service manual for your ride. Read the sections concerning engine, transmission and clutch oil changes. If you have never wrenched on a HD before there are a couple of things to remember. You will be working on engine parts that are aluminum. It is easy to strip threads cut in aluminum. Do not over tighten! Also when you change the oil filter you will end up with some oil running down the front of the engine and over the front engine mount. A few sheets of newspaper will save the floor and make cleanup easier. Also have some engine cleaner on hand. (I use Simple Green.) When the oil change is done spray the front of the engine, especially the motor mount to remove the surface oil. If you don't keep it clean engine oil can, over time, cause the motor mount to fail.

Loctite is your friend. On a Harley you Loctite everything you don't want to fall off. Use blue (medium strength) and red (high strength).

You will not need many tools to do normal maintenance. Just get high quality ones.

 

I'll tell you what, I find that changing the oil/primary/gearbox lube is about all I care to do. OK, I have also bled/replaced the brake fluid. It's all a little messy but not hard to do. I've got the service manual, which I recommend to you. On my Dyna, the only weird tool required for an "oil change" is the harley oil filter wrench. I do not have a torque wrench, I just put new O rings on the drain plugs and snug them up. The fasteners are soft aluminum and you cant be a gorilla and be grunting and stuff. Likewise, removing the aluminum torx screws on the clutch cover requires a little "feel" and good tools. I find the work satisfying enough. It kills a few hours by time you're cleaned up and all. The rest I leave to the dealer. I took the bike in for the 5000 mile check and the cost was very reasonable without an oil change.

 

You should have no problems at all. it's all easy stuff. I do have two tips for you though. Don't over fill your engine oil. Short fill it by 1/2 qt and make sure the motor is hot before your check it and add any. i always leave mine 1/2 qt low. This prevents oil being blown out the breather. And buy a good oil filter wrench. A good one makes all the difference when you run across a over tightened filter. I use a billet one I found online. You can always come here and ask for help if you have any doubts as to what you run into.

 

I even do the my own services during the warranty period. I take a picture of the bike with the service manual, oil,filter, torque wrenches, belt tension tool and then I make a log of each item I check that is in the manual for what is called for with the result.

It is so easy that on a scale of 1 to 10 in difficulty it hardly deserves a 1. Lube and adjust cables - easy. Check wheel bearings - easy. Check head set bearings - easy. Change the fluid in the three holes - easy. R&R the oil filter - easy.

You now have saved yourself about $200 and have a record to show that the needed checks for the mileage was done.

You have bonded with your cycle and are a true motorcyclist. A motorcyclist with more money in his pocket.

 

All great info...thanks for the advice. I trust you guys. I really like the guys at my Dealer, but since they are, for the most part, in it to make a buck (can't blame them), I don't think they're the best source of information. Like Blkbagger said, I can always come here and ask for advice if I get myself in a pickle. This forum has been an invaluable source of information for me.

As far as tools, I think I have some pretty decent ones. I try and stay away from bargain brands since I want them to last. Since I'm not a mechanic, I don't need the absolute best, but I am one to buy quality as I've learned many times over, going "cheap" often ends up costing more in the long run. I already have blue and red loctite. Hopefully, the manual will help me figure out when to use which. From what I can tell, I have everything but a torque wrench and oil filter wrench.

Speaking of tightening/untightening screws...I hope I am strong enough to get the darn things unscrewed! I'm assuming the key is a long handle for leverage, because if I had to depend on the little tool kits you carry on a bike, I'd be SOL!

2 more questions - I saw on the video, 2 types of oil filter wrenches...one with a fabric strap and the other with a metal loop. Is one preferred over the other?

And (I don't have my manual in front of me), how often should I change the oil? If memory serves me, service intervals are every 5K miles, but it would make sense to me the oil needs changing more often than that.

 

I do my own work too. And although I have changed/replaced several tires over the years, when I get a new tire now I let the shop do it. The shop includes mounting in the price of the tire. Yes I know it is added to the price, but as long as you have to pay a full price anyway might as well let them mount it.

Ron