Dont know but the e-bay kit dosnt look bad for a budget,it didnt say if gaskets were included(might of missed it),I am however familer with Keith Black produts to a point...

If you plan on doing head work make sure your cams are compatable,some cams ie 26 510 are for up to 95 conversion with no head work.....just a thought to ponder..

 

The bigger valves will allow you to flow more air and fuel in to the cylinder. A small increase in valve size yields improve flow which is what you are after. Upping the displacement (cc's) will give you more area for the power stroke and increase HP and torque, not sure how much though. You may want to read Donny Petersons book, "Donny's Unauthorized Technical Guide to Harley Davidson 1936 to Present" Vol 2. He give good explanations about how this all needs to work together as a system. If you subscribe to American Iron he has monthly columns in there that discuss this type of stuff. He currently is going over the heads in his column. It is the same thing that is in the book I mentioned above.

 

Just do the 95 and youll be surprised..........Just remember you get into the heads and ya might as well throw your new cams out........
Start gettin 0ver 9.7:1 and well youll find out......If your staying under 9.7:1 youll be fine..

 

I kinda went through this, this past winter..
My stg 1 (96)" give me 70hp/81tq. low tq before 3200rpm and fell off fast after 4500rpm.

Wanted more, 2.5-4.5k rpm's, the 26h's did that. Thread, DYNO Numbers for Softails, sticky on pg 1 in the softail section,Post no.1. See my dynos sheets.
6th is now useful, > 60mph, pulls easy & doesn't labor motor.

the 203 vs 26's are close, I just like what I saw in the sheets better on 26's

I thought about doing the heads but most feel is Ur pulling the heads Ur silly for not going BB. Urs 95 and mine 103..
IMO doing head work, CC'ed and adding a little compression would make a difference but few just do that without the BB kit while having the head off anyway.

Might get the heads done for $400 not sure, but the combo of heads and BB is gonna be more...

IMO, I'd wait till $$$ is right and do Heads and BB at the same time, do it once and do it right. = < $$$$ in the end...

Besides A 95 kit with head work & cams will blow most 96" with just stg 1 and cams..bikes and rider being=.

 

It's a affliction for which there is no cure. The need to keep changing things is overpowering and there is nothing we can do about it.

Something I have found that helps me and doesn't cost allot of $$$$ is once I have the bike looking the way I want it....I start taking everything off and then when it's back to pretty much stock....I start putting stuff back on. It gives me my "tinkering" fix without spending more money.

I understand you can't really do that with the engine mods and it really doesn't have anything to do with your question but I just had too satisfy my need to post and this seemed like a good place too do it.

Sorry for the hijack and I will go away now.

 

I get AI so I'll have to read Donny's column. Thanks for all the advice so far. Maybe jsut a nice Dyno tune on the new cams. Who knows. I can't decide anything.

 

If you're going to up the compression, you will have to do other work on the upper end to keep the motor together. A BB would seem to be the cheapest route for more power on a small budget. Gettin a dyno tune by a good tuner, Plug for Skips of Winchester, VA will wake your motor up.
If you want to do a good job on your motor, save up your nickels and do a proper job when you have the money. If you go cheap, your bike will run cheap.

 

This is good advice. Don't half step. Don't do the cam now and the top end later 'cause that's just a waste of money. Do it all at one time and give yourself an ear to ear grin knowing it was done right as it tries to pull your arms out of the socket.

There are some excellent shops out there who can give you much better advice than you are gonna get here. One is Hillside Cycle but there a quite a few more. You could start by giving these guys a call. I bet they say don't scrimp; do it right. Especially if you plan on keeping the bike for a while.

http://www.hillsidecycle.com/

 

Anubiss......get in touch with Short Block Charlies in Tempe, AZ. I had my cylinders bored out to 3.875", head work, and piston relief's cut for $575. At the time I had
S&S 510G cams in my 88B motor and communicated that to them when they did the work. They decked the heads and did the valve work that kept the compression under 10:1. IF you have mild cams, you can use your existing valve springs. While it is not the $400 you were looking for, it is less expensive than many other options.

Incidentally, Short Block Charlies was featured in American Iron magazine last year for their head work.

 

Just my view but I'd go for a 95" upgrade, this will affect the bottom and mid-range more than top end (and that's what you said you wanted). Compression - you are currently at around 9/1 or less, you can go to about 9.5 without doing any harm or needing to worry about fuel - also a compression of between 9 and 9.5 will suit your cams - higher doesn't.

Prices are probably around what you want to spend if you do the tear down and rebuild yourself - remember you'll need new gaskets though.

This will also give you the basis for some further upgrades - carbs/heads etc and the compression can be raised more with 0.03 head gaskets and milled heads if you want. Or to put it another way - most upgrades are based on a 95" engine.

When you can afford it put it on a dyno just to get the best from what you've already got.