OK update...

I got the bolts cut off. I'll have to thank my brother again for the wonderful dremel he bought me a couple years back. Drilling was useless.

I couldn't bear to cut on the bike because I know I would drop something. I used one of those work table/vices to hold the windshield arms and keep everything level and tight.

Got the shield cut. I used the suggested method of string on the center bolt. I tried at least a dozen other ways to mark an arc, but in the end, this was easy. Used fishing line and a pencil.

I bought 3 24TPI bi-metal blades for my sabresaw. The shield shook uncontrollably and I couldn't get a good cut. I switched out again to the dremel. Router attachment with side cutting bit. This cut well, but was a bit hard to control. I cut high of my line. At this point it looked horrible, and totally ruined. I got out the orbital sander and went to town. 10 minutes later, it looked pretty darn good!

I shaped it with the sander, cleaned it up by hand and put it back on the bike.

I went inside to clean up, sanding lexan makes a huge mess. Wife came home and asked me when I was going to cut the shield. This was good news, since she couldn't tell I hadn't cut it yet.

I ended up cutting just a bit over 3" off, and it works much better for me now.

Thank you everyone for your help with this. I really felt it would never work out without a lot of cash.

For the person that mentioned the shield vibrating and causing the problem, I still believe that to be correct. Now that it is shorter, I can 'hide' behind it and its almost totally wind free. I tried at full height and it was still turbulent.

I have a few pieces of wisdom to share that I leanred on this adventure.

1. When masking, tape from the bottom up. otherwise when you stencil and cut from the top down it peels the tape off.
2. The blue tape is MUCH better than normal brown tape.
3. If you are going to use a scribe (compass), take the needle out, it cuts right through the tape if it slips off the top of the shield.
4. Dont push too hard with the orbital, the thin edge of the shield will cut into the pad under the sandpaper
5. winshield bolts are tough, dont drill the heads off, just cut em in half and split with a wedge
6. replacement bolts can be had at the dealer for $4 EACH!!!!

ORIGINAL: Pat

Hey Clammy,

The windshield is a snap to trim, not hard to do a good job on it. Bill Norse has a good DIY post on it. The buffeting, acording to a thread from about 2 weeks ago, is mostly caused by winfd coming up from under the shield. I put fork deflectors on mine and a forkbag over the bars to plug the hole between the light and the bottom of the shield and all the buffeting went away. Some of the posts in that thread also show a correlation with the type of helmet used - full face seemed to be the worst offenders.