I'll be putting some se 203's in on Monday or Tuesday and will give a report on the difference once I do.

 

+1

I too am very happpy with my SS 510's.

I previously had SE 203's. I know that the 203 and 510 are similar, but do like the 510's better; maybe the gear drive makes the difference.

At any rate, you did not say the year of your bike, but I would consider gear drive if you are going to the trouble of installing new cams.

 

get the newest american rider magazine, their in house tech has a good article on the 88 cam upgrade and cam chain tensioner failures and when to get em done on the 88's only will answer your ? in detail in this article % cam upgrades and do's and dont's

 

In the Softail section there is a sticky Thread at the top of page one called ""

'''Dynos for Softails''''
That means Dyno information for softails in there....

Also there is a sticky thread in the touring section at the top of page one and its called..

DYNO Numbers for Baggers....
and there's Dyno information in there also

Theres over 1100 post with numbers and DYNO sheets. All different combos of motors, cams and head work that our Bro's in here have done..


I don't see how so many that read in here miss this information...

Just spend some time looking and reading in those and you will come away a lot lot smarter....

Also the best cam compare page I found while choosing mine was..
But You need to do a little homework to figure out what you cam needs are.


WWW.bigboyzcycles.com then click on calculators, then tc camshaft compare

You didn't even mention what you wanted from a Cam, neither did you say what you riding styles where, so there's no way anyone could give you any good advice except (This worked for me and I love it.)

You need to figure out if you want a good low-middle cam, or a good middle-high RPM cam

In my study of cams and I took months to study them, Just me, I found that he SE cams though good are not better than some..

The three dealers I talked to this spring about installing a bolt-in cam said...
1st dealer-- 204 with 4* advance gear was best Se cam.-- good all around
2nd dealer---211 straight up was the best SE cam. -- light bike mid-high rpm
3rd dealer---203 was the best SE cam. good heavy bike low-mid

All three within 60 miles of home...
After studying the cams for my style and wanting low-mid TQ I ended up with And26h's and I love them but they are not for everyone.. My Heritage is heavy and we ride two up (400#'s) 90% of the time.
The dealer that put my 26's in was surprised at the TQ line they made, even better than there normal for the 203's..but the SE is there brand, And Yes My dyno sheets are in the DYNOS for Softail thread, NO1 post...

You Need to know what do U want!, what motor work have you done!, whats your riding style!, what bike is it for!, and light or heavy load!...
Then Your can match a Cam to that motor..

A lot more than just saying My friend has a ???? Cam and he loves it.
only way that will work is if all is equal.. motor, bike, riding style, weight...

 

I reread Your post and now I see U have a FB. middle weight bike,
be carefull and don't get caught up in peak no's only. U want the TQ where U ride most of the time

The 211's will produce decent #'s TQ & HP but they wont peak till somewhere in the mid-high 3k rpm's, so if that's what U want and don't care that U will lose the 2k-3.5k range then the 211's are ok.. They will be a little doggy with 2 up at low RPMS..

Without head work I don't think the upper RPM gain will be noticed as much

If you ride a heavy bike like a Road King or always ride two up, you should place more emphasis on having the engine produce good low end torque. If you have a light bike like an FXR or Dyna, and you want a lot of top end power, a mid-range power cam can be used. If you usually ride your bike in town, choose a camshaft for low end torque. If you have your choice between horsepower or torque for engine characteristics, the best decision is to go for the torque cam.

As a general rule, cams with 220-235 degrees of duration tend to produce good low end torque. Cams with 235-250 degrees of duration tend to work best in the mid-ranges and cams over 260 degrees work best for top end power. Camshaft overlap duration less than 30 degrees tends to produce good low end power. Lobe Separation Angles (LSA) of 100-103 degrees tend to produce power at the low end.

Cams with valve lifts .500 inches and under, with a duration under 250 degrees are generally considered bolt-in. Cams over .500 inches lift and 250 degrees duration require increased compression and head work to work best.

 

Heres another post I dug up for U... I'am still looking for a stock 88B with 211's dyno sheet.


Doc 1
My Garage
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Florida
Posts: 2,276
RE: Best 95" kit? cams?
I agree with Dalton and Bob....I will add that the SE 211 cam is the MOST undesirable cam on the market today, is this my opinion, yes it is based on 5 years of testing and using nothing else but SE Products running the dyno with these builds for 6 hours a day 5 days a week. If you have to use a SE cam I truly believe the 251 is by far the best in the SE line....but the 211....not even a good paper weight when compared to any popular Woods, Andrews, or HQ cams available. Sorry for the bluntness but I see so many people get sucked in on these cams only because the dealer techs read in the SE book on how great they are when in fact they come on slow, need much more compression than what is recommended, and perform in the top end rpm range only. I agree they will give you more power than stock cams will but when you have the opportunity to test side by side with other popular cams you would be crazy to select the 211. Again I don't want to offend anyone who has already took the plunge with the 211, just hate to see people get less than their hard earned money's worty.

 

Chunks;;;; I have been reading and looking for an hour for U to find a sheet, not one yet.

I didn't even consider the 211's so I didn't mind looking, Most of the guys that have used them did it in the 95" build, with heads and added compression.. which I don't think U R doing..

I know the 88's had good luck with the andrews 21 for really low - mid TQ and the 26's are really good from 2k - 5.2. and u will see a big diff from stock..

Also my milage went from 41 mpg to 43.7 mpg when I put in the 26's, if you look at my sheets in the (Dynos for softails) thread in the softail section, post # 1, you'll see how much I gained over stock.

Iam still using the stock headers with Rush 2'', cause I love the sound,
I know if I put a set of D&D's FC's on I gain around 5&5. but I just like what I have toooo much...

I went ahead and put in the sheets, the one with red lines show the difference of the two and I draw in the red line because they were done a two different shops. so I put the other to show that the ones with the 26h's are true..

 

Hope I haven't bored Ya, I just love to talk the simple bolt in cams....and help others to get more out of the basic build,,, not into the big bore, high compression, head porting stuff yet....

 

Keep it coming Oct - Good stuff

 

Horsepower = torque * rpm / 5252. The torque determines the horsepower at a given rpm. The same torque at a higher rpm is a higher horsepower. A cam can have a dramatic impact on your peak horsepower number. You might actually have less power at the rpms you actually run. All else being equal the torque curve on a dyno shows you the differance between cams. The torque curve is, pretty much, telling you how the size of the charge is varying by rpms. Most dyno sheets you see are wide open throttle so the torque is mainly varying due to the efficiency by which the cam loads the cylindar varying by engine speed.